Hello everyone im really new at this. I tried building a design on anyrail but cant connect 2 sections can any one help.
Im trying to stay with 048 and 060 fastrack as much as possible.
Attachments
Files (1)
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
I've looked at your design in AnyRail and don't see any unconnected pieces. What I do see is that your outside loop extends slightly over the edges on at least 2 sides. Maybe you need to try 7x11?
Chuck
I dont have any more room to extend. One of the parts not connecting is in the middle where my 2 switches are.If you have any other advise please let me know.
I haven't had a chance to open the file but perhaps you could use a bridge along one side?
I'll try to take a look at the file later.
Joe
Wide curves and a small space makes for limited track plans and made HO and N gauge popular. My 11 ft , 2 inches long and 5 ft, 9 inches size in O27 gave me the below track plan minus the top bypass track. O27 will run Lionel 2046, 2056, 671 and Polar Express 4-8-4 engines
11 ft , 2 inches long and 5 ft, 9 inches
Full details on layout at OGR link below
https://ogrforum.com/...fties-era-027-layout
Charlie
O42 Will be your largest curve radius. You should reach out to Melgar, on this forum. He has a 5 X 10 if I recall correctly. He is featured in the Feb, March issue of the magazine. He may be able to advise you on your layout. He has two excellent layouts, and is an excellent O Gouger modeler'...
Your track fits on the table. It just needed shimmy-ed over, I think? You're definitely right up against the edge but that's ok if you're confident you won't be speeding. Your road bed will be off a bit but I think you can spare a 1x2 along the edges to support it.
It sounds like you have track already but I would strongly recommend you check out Ross, Gargraves, or Atlas track systems. Ross and Gargraves, in particular, will give you a lot more options with your switch tracks and whatnot and that will let you get more track in less space. Just something to play around with. That's the best part of programs like Anyrail...you can create layouts for free instead of buying track and paying to experiment.
Hi Joe,
I looked at your plan again and did find the spot in the middle (between 2 switches) where your track doesn't connect. Since I don't have a "paid for" version of AnyRail, I was not able to play around with pieces to attempt a fix. However, given that everything else seems to fit, you may just have to custom cut a piece of FasTrack for that spot. With that said, because of the way FasTrack is made, creating custom lengths is not an easy project, but it can be done. Just search the web for tips on making the process easier for yourself.
On the other hand, if you know the exact distance between those 2 switches, I have attached a handy chart that permits you to use various pieces of FasTrack to connect to specific distances. Again though, as your layout is designed, you can only "play" with the distance between those 2 switches to make a connection.
Good luck,
Chuck
PS I think I've also read that Lionel has cataloged a "new" 3 inch piece of FasTrack. If so, this chart will have to be updated.
Attachments
Files (1)
Thank you all for your great advise. Thats why i love all your advise. I will keep you all posted
Joe,
This is an interesting concept. There is also a spot on the upper right side of the outer loop that isn't connected. Replacing (2) 1.75" and (3) 1.375" pieces along the top, with (2) 1.375" and a 5" straight will close this loop. Between the two switches in the middle location you actually have an S curve. With (2) 1.375" pieces in that location the design is off side to side by roughly 3/16", and 1/8" short. I see two solutions; make the connection between the switches with two 1.375" pieces and use a piece of flexible track to replace one of the O48 curves or start by making the connection between switches close and then make final closure of the loop about halfway between the outside and middle switch on one or more of the approach legs by flexing the connections slightly.
Myself I would keep working on the design to do the following:
- Increase track spacing (you are 2.5" center to center in one location) so you at least have 3.5", though you may want more if you are running long cars or engines.
- Eliminate the other S curves.
I hope this helps
Eric
@EAW posted:Joe,
This is an interesting concept. There is also a spot on the upper right side of the outer loop that isn't connected. Replacing (2) 1.75" and (3) 1.375" pieces along the top, with (2) 1.375" and a 5" straight will close this loop. Between the two switches in the middle location you actually have an S curve. With (2) 1.375" pieces in that location the design is off side to side by roughly 3/16", and 1/8" short. I see two solutions; make the connection between the switches with two 1.375" pieces and use a piece of flexible track to replace one of the O48 curves or start by making the connection between switches close and then make final closure of the loop about halfway between the outside and middle switch on one or more of the approach legs by flexing the connections slightly.
Myself I would keep working on the design to do the following:
- Increase track spacing (you are 2.5" center to center in one location) so you at least have 3.5", though you may want more if you are running long cars or engines.
- Eliminate the other S curves.
I hope this helps
Eric
Thank you very much will keep you updated
