Such as Gargraves, Atlas or others. and any radius you want.
I notice on the what is your radius thread everyone had standard sectional track radius.
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I use Gargraves flex track but I match the diameters to the common diameters (2 X radii) available from Ross Custom switches. That way the flow is consistent when entering sidings, yards or curved mainline switches. One thing I learned from my HO and N scale days is to make an easement from the curves to the straights so the transition is smoother when approaching or leaving a curve. For instance, If I lay a 72" diameter 180 degree curve on my roadbed, I actually position the straights it connects to about 73" or 74" apart so the curve becomes an increasingly wider diameter, or spiral, as it joins the straight track. That small design tweak makes the moving trains seem less toy-like.
TJ
I like to use flex track mostly, and sectional curves, because longer track sections (fewer joints) benefit DCS functionality. I don't really want to start making my own curves and the pre-made sectional track helps with keeping things oriented correctly. Flex track also helps with creating long gentle curves.
I use Ross O72 and O54 curves.
Neal Jeter
I should have but opted for preformed curves. Ah but for a few inches more my shelf queens could be riding the rails.
I used Gargraves Flex for most of my track, and some Ross O72 sectional track. My flex curves range from around O99 to O72.
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I have used both atlas and gargraves. Atlas is a bit harder to work but curve is smoother. Gargraves can kink a bit if not careful. I use a dremel and a file to cut. I cut with the motor on top of the rail I’m going to use.
@gunrunnerjohn posted: John, if it wouldn't be to much trouble, do you have a picture from the other end that you could share? I would like to do something like this to my layout. Thanks in advance.I used Gargraves Flex for most of my track, and some Ross O72 sectional track. My flex curves range from around O99 to O72.
I must have done something wrong with my last post......................
Here's the other end. You can also see lots more pictures of the build in my layout thread.
John's Layout Thread
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:I used Gargraves Flex for most of my track, and some Ross O72 sectional track. My flex curves range from around O99 to O72.
John...I love the huge white industrial smoke stack! (LOL...!) Seriously, this is a nice looking track layout. Can't wait to see it progress. You should be taking lots of pictures since I would like to see it in the magazine!
@OGR CEO-PUBLISHER posted:John...I love the huge white industrial smoke stack! (LOL...!) Seriously, this is a nice looking track layout. Can't wait to see it progress. You should be taking lots of pictures since I would like to see it in the magazine!
Alan, I'm thinking that could be a giant Redwood trunk. 
I only use Gargraves flex and bend all my curves, except the large curved turnouts. and super elevation on most curves.
I used Gargraves flex for my layout (bent using the Mark I stomach template 
). The Gargraves people were pretty happy about it.
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I confess that I started with "official" bending templates for the flex, but ended up doing most of it with the Mark I Stomach Template as well. It's fairly easy when you're doing wider curves, I can imagine doing O31 with Gargraves flex is a bit more difficult.
Flex almost exclusively for both my two rail and three rail.
Cosmetic curves can add interest
Although real RRs build along the shortest straight line which is more economical (and boring IMO).
The gentle bends coming off the wye
were formed by bending along the curved benchwork.
The shop vac upper lip forms this curve
Two pieces of flex from the shop vac make an 031 return loop
Just add a 031 LH switch, short straight and a full 031 curve
And you have a return loop.
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I have a old dining room table on my patio and I have a round drill press table I set on it. I use it to bend Gargraves where I should and looks about right and then try on my layout. It usually takes several tries to get right. Having the track on a table as you bend prevents twist. Like Tom T with his shop vac.
For the few curves i did use flex on the water heater served as a template.
I required 2 flex sections to configure my Y.
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@Dennis Rempel posted:Such as Gargraves, Atlas or others. and any radius you want.
I notice on the what is your radius thread everyone had standard sectional track radius.
I did a small layout with a friend using 5 rail (O and Standard gauge combo) Gargraves flex track.
Difficult to work especially on the ends of the curves. But the final result worked out great.
I would imagine that 2 or 3 rail O gauge Gargraves, or HO and S would be a lot easier
I use both.
Ross sectional for any curve longer than one piece of GarGraves flex or for any radius larger than Ross makes.
For short sections to make up the distance between a turnout and siding, or just for curves of random nonstandard radii, I use GarGraves.
I like both products very much and I’m glad we have both to choose from. A little competition and the customer wins!
Shelf layout I have, used fixed curves in the corners, the rest I used flex. Few spots where a little offset was needed. Takes time to shape it. Wish it were as flexible as HO flex lol. All Gargraves.
While I do use some flextrack, I use atlas track, mostly I use sectional track. Much simpler to use, and looks good.
if I was using gargraves track - I would use mostly flex.
I have section curves in a few spots, but mostly use flex.
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You're right Rich, Atlas with Ross switches was my first choice. However, the availability and cost of Atlas track made it easy to decide on Gargraves. FWIW, once you've done a few, or maybe quite a few, Gargraves flex bends, it gets pretty easy. Also, I could totally customize the curves to fit whatever I desired, and I could do some stuff that's hard to do with sectional track. Prior to this layout, I had only a passing acquaintance with flex track, but I'm a believer now.
@necrails posted:For the few curves i did use flex on the water heater served as a template.
This is a very easy way to curve GarGraves track!!
Highly recommended. Any you can get any type of curve you need.
George
Hey Gunrunnerjohn, I see you have one of those ductless ac units. How do you like it? Ive been looking to put one of those setups in my garage and workshop.
@G3750 posted:This is a very easy way to curve GarGraves track!!
George
Unless you have a square water heater like mine. But I do have a shop vac to try.
John
@Craftech posted:Unless you have a square water heater like mine. But I do have a shop vac to try.
I used my Mark 1 Belly Bender for the Gargraves flex. 
@Tugboat15 posted:Hey Gunrunnerjohn, I see you have one of those ductless ac units. How do you like it? Ive been looking to put one of those setups in my garage and workshop.
They work well, and have pretty high efficiency, I believe mine are rated at 22 SEER for A/C.
One caveat to note. If you have widely differing heat/cool needs in two or more locations, having a single outdoor unit and multiple ductless indoor units, there is a limitation. All the units have to be either doing A/C or heating, you can't have one heating and one air conditioning. Our second unit is in the 3rd story loft, so in the warmer weather, it requires A/C with the sun load. In the spring, sometimes it would be nice to have a little heat in the basement, but that would preclude A/C in the loft. To compensate, I just have to run more trains to generate heat. 
@gunrunnerjohn posted:They work well, and have pretty high efficiency, I believe mine are rated at 22 SEER for A/C.
One caveat to note. If you have widely differing heat/cool needs in two or more locations, having a single outdoor unit and multiple ductless indoor units, there is a limitation. All the units have to be either doing A/C or heating, you can't have one heating and one air conditioning. Our second unit is in the 3rd story loft, so in the warmer weather, it requires A/C with the sun load. In the spring, sometimes it would be nice to have a little heat in the basement, but that would preclude A/C in the loft. To compensate, I just have to run more trains to generate heat.
Well, down here in Texas, no basements, and no flux in zones of house. Its usually baking hot. We rarely use the heater. Wish I knew about these systems sooner. Down here, they push to sell window units, by the pallet. Use 110v and drink some juice. Nice to see some of these are 220v units. Dad and I were seeing what else is out there, and found these setups. Wish I had a basement to setup a large layout like some of you. Also wish I knew of someone with O gauge layout just to see some trains in action.
@Tugboat15 posted:Well, down here in Texas, no basements, and no flux in zones of house. Its usually baking hot. We rarely use the heater. Wish I knew about these systems sooner. Down here, they push to sell window units, by the pallet. Use 110v and drink some juice. Nice to see some of these are 220v units. Dad and I were seeing what else is out there, and found these setups. Wish I had a basement to setup a large layout like some of you. Also wish I knew of someone with O gauge layout just to see some trains in action.
The ductless mini-split typically has a better EER than any window unit, so that's a plus. Also, you don't have an ugly box hanging out of the window!
In my case, I was finishing the loft for my daughter, so adding the second inside unit was not a huge increase in cost. It has been nice to have the ability to climate control the basement.
