Ives 3251-3252 Parts?

Jeff Kane http://www.ttender.com/

or Hennings (forum sponsor) are the places

They could advise and possibly supply the parts for your restoration. 

pdx1955 posted:

I have a Ives 3251 (or might be a 3252 but all of the lettering is long gone) electric that I want to restore. It's missing all of the trim and I've found sources for the bell and couplers. The handrails and stanchions are just made of wire. Does anyone know the diameter of these parts? Its also missing the screws that hold the body shell on. I've seen from pictures that it's a round slotted screw - does anyone know what size it is?  I just want cut down on time and the chance that I'll buy the wrong thing. Any help would be appreciated!

Peter

Pete, the handrail is generic brass rod, I find the 5/64 size easiest to work with (.07").  Available from many sources, George Tebolt has short lengths, click here and look at the last 3 items in the "handrails, clips, and stanchions" section. Cut it and bend it to fit with point-nose pliers.   For stanchions, Ives used small cotter pins.  A 1/16" x 1/2" long cotter pin works well, since you will only need a few try your local hardware store.  Same with the cab screws, they are either 6-32 x 1/4" or 4-40 x 1/4", depending on the loco, get a couple of each at your hardware store, they are pennies.  Get them a little longer and they are easier to put in.

You can also search eBay or Amazon for these types of hardware and get lots of hits, depending on the number you want to buy. A craft store like Michael's would also probably have brass rod in various diameters.

As already mentioned, Harry Henning is the best for the specific train parts, he has a great on-line store with photos and an easy ordering system; for the generic stuff just shop around.

david

Peter,

I can make it easy for you! I have an Ives #3252 shell complete with the handrails and cotter pins. If you will contact me using the email address in my profile, I will send it to you for the cost of the postage. Check out the Ives Train Society website for additional information and pictures of Ives trains.

Eric Hofberg

TCA, LCCA

hojack posted:

pdx1955 posted:

I have a Ives 3251 (or might be a 3252 but all of the lettering is long gone) electric that I want to restore. It's missing all of the trim and I've found sources for the bell and couplers. The handrails and stanchions are just made of wire. Does anyone know the diameter of these parts? Its also missing the screws that hold the body shell on. I've seen from pictures that it's a round slotted screw - does anyone know what size it is?  I just want cut down on time and the chance that I'll buy the wrong thing. Any help would be appreciated!

Peter

Pete, the handrail is generic brass rod, I find the 5/64 size easiest to work with (.07").  Available from many sources, George Tebolt has short lengths, click here and look at the last 3 items in the "handrails, clips, and stanchions" section. Cut it and bend it to fit with point-nose pliers.   For stanchions, Ives used small cotter pins.  A 1/16" x 1/2" long cotter pin works well, since you will only need a few try your local hardware store.  Same with the cab screws, they are either 6-32 x 1/4" or 4-40 x 1/4", depending on the loco, get a couple of each at your hardware store, they are pennies.  Get them a little longer and they are easier to put in.

You can also search eBay or Amazon for these types of hardware and get lots of hits, depending on the number you want to buy. A craft store like Michael's would also probably have brass rod in various diameters.

As already mentioned, Harry Henning is the best for the specific train parts, he has a great on-line store with photos and an easy ordering system; for the generic stuff just shop around.

david

Thank you David this is exactly what I was looking for. I had already seen Tebolt's and Henning's sites as good places for couplers and other specific parts. I'm glad to see the rest is generic - there's lots of hobby shops that carry the small screws and brass rod. It wouldn't be a bad thing to have extras of this kind of stuff anyways.

Peter