This thread shows how to convert 3-rail couplers to Kadees on Atlas cars.  The first section will show you what you need to restore the 3 rail couplers.  This is the assembly you need.

You may want to post a WTB ad for a Atlas 3-rail coupler assemblies removed for 2 rail conversions.  Someone might even gift it to you.  Alternatively, you will need to buy a replacement set of Atlas 3-rail trucks with couplers. Here is a link to a set from Mr. Muffins Trains.

Bob

@tsheridan posted:

I just purchased a

Atlas 8224-2 O Gauge Hooker 11K Gallon Tank Car

sorry for the large font - I did not realize that it had a Kadee coupler which is not playing well with the Lionel/ MTH train cars that I have on my layout

is there anyway to easily convert the Kadee couplers to the “regular” couplers on the other cars ?

thank you for any recommendations/ advice

tom

If the car has Kadee couplers, it is most likely a 2-Rail Scale car, i.e. 2-Rail Scale trucks. The only way to convert it to a 3-Rail car is to remove the Kadee couplers and change the trucks to 3-Rail trucks with the included "Lionel" style couplers.

I bought some 2 rail Atlas cars with Kadee couplers.  Bought Atlas trucks to convert then to 3 rail.  The Atlas couplers cost 60% of what I paid for the car.

Thank you for the detailed instructions

and yes - I just received from Trainz ! - how did you know ?

I’m back in this hobby after a loooiooing hiatus and would normally get annoyed/ ask for a return - but with assistance from people like you guys on these forums I find them learning activities

thank you again

I might have what you need. I do the opposite and convert to Kadee’s.  A picture of what you have would help. If the mount for the coupler has been lopped off for clearance. You need the mounting piece. I’ve come across 3 different ones. There’s a line up molded in boss that seemed to change locations in different production runs if you need that piece. The couplers changed over time as well.

They at one time offered what was a truck mounted 2 rail coupler. In the box you got this piece minus the 3 rail mount. So these parts are out there. I have a box of removed parts and may have what you need. In fact I still have a few cars in boxes waiting to be converted. I don’t know what you paid for the car. If you have no local source to buy new trucks. Your looking at close to $40 for new trucks.  I’ve seen Atlas cars at shows for less than the price of new trucks. At one point. Atlas changed the truck design. They made the sideframes thinner. Bringing them more into scale. Not a big thing. But on a tank car and the trucks being more visible. They do look better. If you go for new trucks go for the latest version.

Hi Dave C

I have attached photos of the underside of car - one with existing truck installed - one with the truck removed - it looks like I have the crossbar that you are describing- just not sure how a “Lionel” coupler would attach once I remove the Kadee coupler?

Hi Dave C

I looked more closely at the truck I removed from the Atlas tank car then back to the photos of the pieces that you have

they may be out of frame but are the couplers attached to the crossbars that you have removed- if so that is exactly what I would need

tom

I have a tanker to convert. I’ll check it out tomorrow. The complete truck would be the easiest and we can just swap. I believe yours is new enough to have the thinner sideframes and the coupler has a rectangular thumbtack rather than a round one. I have the couplers but I think the mount also changed on the later runs. That I wouldn’t have. I have a couple of other cars to do and will see what they have. The Atlas Bettendorf truck as far as the mounting to a car hasn’t changed over the years. Unfortunately the truck components themselves have some minor variations.

Tom, looking at Atlas’ archives. Your car was made in 07. The car I’m looking at on my bench was made in 2010. I have 2 different setups for that era. The key on a quick look is the hardware. Which is long gone on yours. The important thing is the 2 cast mounting bosses which line up the side frames. You can safely remove the 2 screws to look at it. Everything will stay in place.

They are slightly different. Measuring end to end. One has some casting marks visible by the mounting hole. 2 circles.

       View from the top. 2 circles visible on one of them.

This is all assuming the car has the original trucks. A few variations over the years. I found out the hard way. Use to convert in batches of a few cars at a time. Would cut off the 3 rail mount and gather them up and spray them black where I cut them off. It became a puzzle putting them back together. Just want to hook you up with the correct part. You probably got the car at a good price as many would shy away from the Kadee coupler. I hate to see you shell out more dollars for a set of trucks.

Thank u for the research and the advice

was a rookie mistake on my part - the Kadee coupler - assumed  would “play well”

I did get at a good price - considering cost of shipping back etc makes sense to just get part

I’m out now when I get home will take a look at my truck - send pic

thank you

tom

Hi Dave

I removed one of the trucks and the 2 side screws. Although what I call the crossbar is loose - I can’t diengage the piece from the truck - concerned about really applying force and breaking something

I took some pictures - top and bottom of the truck - which look slightly different from yours - this crossbar has a mounting hole that protrudes from top to slide into screw hole protruding from bottom of car (smaller diameter than cross bar protrusion)

hopefully ull be able to identify the part I need based on photos

i

Okay. I think I see what might be going on. When Kadee’s started getting popular there was a thread on the Forum about doing conversions. I believe it’s still there on the 3RS Forum. One issue converting some cars is that if you left the 3 rail coupler mount in place. It either hit the Kadee or sometimes the center sill of the car and had to be removed. One posters solution was to remove the 2 screws and just simply leave the mount off. The little coil springs pretty much will keep the truck together. It actually flexes a little more in this scenario much like a Weaver truck.  I’ve always cut the mount off and put the piece back on with the screws.
I’m guessing this is the correct truck. This is what it should look like with the coupler. It seems to match what you have.

You mentioned you removed 2 small screws. Presently they are just plugging up the hole. As long as the screws are there. You just need the piece that the attaches to the truck and the coupler itself.  It seems like I have what you need. My e mail is in my profile. I just need your address and I’ll get them out to you.

This is what it would look like with the 3 rail mount trimmed off.

Hi Dave

I sent 2 emails to you this afternoon

just let me know if you didn’t get them

regards

Tom