Layout for 8x12 room

Well you need to decide how big of locomotives your gonna run in the future so you know what your minim curve is gonna be then get enough of curve track to make a circle that will cover the corners of your room then just connect the dots with straight track to make it go all around the room, if ya post in the layout section they will pry be of more help

Since you don't have any trains yet you could take the opposite approach; figure out what size curves you can fit, O31, O36, O42, etc., and buy trains that will negotiate those curves. Using shelves I would think you would need tighter curves, like O31 or O36, but I'm not 100% sure. 

I would try to go with the widest curves you can up to O-72.   For reliability, appearance, and ability to choose any engines you like.

 

The only constraining issue is how far out from the walls at the corners are you OK with?  Larger diameter O-72 curves will have more distance from the walls at the corners.   If that is not an issue, then no-worries.

 

I would do two tracks, with O-72 as the widest, and the next smallest diameter for the second track (inside track).   O-60 if using Lionel Fastrack, O-63 for the other track systems.

 

-Ken

I am building the same thing in a 10x12 space but at eye level. I am planning 3 main lines...

 

0-72, 0-48*, and 0-36*

 

*already have the track...

You might want to post this to the Layout Design Forum; you'll get a lot of good input over there.

 

Jeff Davis

My previous layout was in a room 8 1/2 ft X almost 11 1/2 ft.

 

I made a layout 36" wide on one side and 42" wide on the other.  The closed end was 2 ft deep with the other end open  but built a wood platform (Bridge) for it

The issue of curve diameter is one only YOU can decide.  It will limit the size of the locomotive and rail cars you elect to use. 

 

At the risk of being flamed, it is basically, "more realistic" vs "more toy like" (and I mean NO disrespect to the tinplate or O-27 fans out there).  If you want to see the size you will need to make your shelf, try this...

 

Get a large cardboard box.  Take a yard stick and use that to roughly sketch a 36 inch diameter 90 degree curve (1/4 of a circle).  Cut out the inside of the curve with about 3 inches to spare.  Make the curve so that the line is about 3 inches from the factory corner of the cardboard and you will not have to worry about cutting the outside edges of the box.  Now, go slip that into the corner of the room. 

 

You should have a rough idea of how much space the curve will take and you can visualize an O-72 curve.  36 inch radius is an O-72 curve.  You might want to consider an O-54 curve in the room. 

 

My issue would be...

 

I am not sure an around the ceiling layout, that is "above my head" would have much need for a passing track or siding.  If this is just a project to see trains run, it would be difficult to do more than "park one train while you ran the other" and the one on the passing track would have to "pass" the one parked on the main track every time using the pass track.  It would not be much more difficult to simply have a two track mainline with one train going each way.  That would require broader curves on the track nearest the wall and tighter curves on the track nearest the edge of the shelf.

 

The size of the locomotive will make a big difference in the curve you might require.  Smaller diesel locomotives such as 4 axle switchers or road engines would negotiate smaller curves.  Several manufacturers offer those in CSX.

 

I might want to mock that up in real world with the actual curves.  A quick trip to your local hobby shop should give you 3 or 4 pieces of O-72 and O-54 which should let you run a couple of cars side by side thru the curves.  Talk to your local hobby shop...they are usually pretty good guys and can often be great sources of information just like this forum.

 

Good luck. 

 

JoeNJ

I have some rough, but scale, pencil sketches for a high shelf RR in a 14' x 16' home office [former BR] that was built in 1994 in East Tennessee. The owner had visited my 1992 14'x32', 5 track, twin shelf operation in the 18' h. kitchen-breakfast room of our mountain cottage.

 

This O-gauger was an Environmental Engineer at the Kingsport Ordanace Plant, had pretty good woodworking skill, was an enthusiastic planner and tended to get over the top a little bit but it was his RR. This plan is not what you are pursuing Joe but you're welcome to these sketches for viewing and chasing ideas if you wish. I will mail them postal if so. I am not very computer literate and doubt my scans would ever reach email.

 

Specs more or less:

1.One budget requirement was to build the rail platform from no more than three 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" plywood and the same amount of 1/2" extruded foam underlayment. 3/4" plywood was selected because of its strength and corner cantilever capability.

 

2.The track curve arcs in each of the four corners were to be 079 and 090 and the front curve cut of the 4'x4' sheet in the corners 072.  This was a decision heavily influenced by his new purchase of the MTH Clinchfield Challenger and his inventory of 80' passenger cars.

All track was Gargraves Flextrack to achieve the curve arcs he selected. I suggested backing off some on the wide curves because he might want more clearance to install building fronts and half-trees along the walls ,fake tunnels in the corners,etc. Didn't happen as far as I know.  In recent years he moved to Illinois and I moved to Greensboro. A mutual friend said he removed the shelves and took them along on his move. 

 

3. The 090 rear track was to be elevated about 5" [stepped up] to enable a better line of sight of the rear train from floor level.

 

4. Support brackets: Steel, enameled "Maxi Brackets" from Home Depot, sized and selected as needed.

 

5. Straight-away run shelving to be 11-3/4" wide and curve corners fabricated from 4' x 4'x 3/4"plywood. All straight shelves from one sheet of plywood, the four curve corners from two sheets.

 

6.Wall clearance from center rail of 090 = 3". Center rail to center rail 079/090 spacing =5-1/2". Center rail from 079 center rail to front edge and 1/8' plexiglas fence 3-1/4".

 

7.The wide curve arcs selected [and eventually "noodled" somewhat as I recall ] had the disadvantage of creating a "mezzanine effect" in the corners via the forward overhang. But the 072 front edge curve cut muted that overhang somewhat and he proceeded. The diagonal dimension from the 072 curve cut's front edge to the room corner was about 31". 

It is okay if you don't want to fool with the sketches. I remembered them when I read your thread.

Couple of snapshots of my shelf RR--dismantled in 2008.

 

Later, I will try to post an image of the two sketches.

 

 

 

 

Thanks everyone for the helpful insight for my project. I have gotten a little bust with work and haven't had much time to work on this project yet. I will definitely try out the cardboard half circle trick and see exactly how the radius will look in the room. My other option which I think will look better, depending on how big the radius looks, is to hang the layout from the ceiling. I think this way will allow it to look as if its not protruding into the room but rather floating there close to the walls. It will also eliminate the big bulky shelf I feel would be needed for an 072 curve. Dewey, I would like to see the sketches, that would be great if you could mail them.. Will send you my address.. Thanks again guys.