layout progress - unnamed right now

Great progress!  Third picture shows what look like a long reach unless you are putting in an access hatch?

looking forward to following you build. 

Looks really nice; you've made good progress.  Keep the updates coming.

thanks, yes next to those yard tracks on the left i will cut out once i have the track layed down. that cavity will be under a cityscape up top , but will be walled off in between layers so that you will be looking at an inner tunnel wall from outside the layout. that will give me a gopher hole to wire all the stuff from under.

it's more than the bench work demons- you have "I want a railroad fever".

Your plans have really expanded since the first layout ideas that you kicked around. More area and multi-level.

Go for it! Are you sure 9" will be enough height for the second level? Seems a little tight if you have to reach in because of the gremlins playing games.

Looks great!

Peter

Doing excellent work. Like the bench work.

moonman, what would you suggest for second level? i was concerned about the grade being too steep.  in the back corner , i will have a track transitioning from the lower level via the beginning of an 0-72 curve followed by maybe 4.5 ft of straight. this will be a hidden grade as well. i was using the height of the commercially available portals as a refference.

Ok, I was thinking a helix or spiral to 12" for a 4% grade , over the river\tunnel out and around the new part and back. SCARM file attached.

I like it a lot.

Brad

i wish i had SCARM capability to show you guys my actual plan , but unfortunatly its pencil / paper. but at least through measuring and with track pieves i have , ive been able to verify it will work. im super excited to see it take shape, but due to the number of switches and cost , will take some time. also with the multy levels, i have to really concentrate on modelling the lower level before moving on...

No problem, I was just putting the helix in the corner idea out there. SCARM just helps with visualizing the concept. Anyway, it is all 0-72, 090 turn in corner, 090 turn to 072 loop and 099 back to the wye.

You can get up to 12" in a 3.8-4% grade with a 1 loop helix.

You can always take a photo and share your plan. Pencil and paper always works.

i received barry's book last night and dove in. i like the way he did it, but i still have some lingering questions about power. so based on the pictures of my layout in progress , can i get away with one ZW4000 , and 2 tiu's , or should i go 2 x PH180 / 2 TIU.  i dont envision many operating accessories.. maybe a set of gates , but mostly signals and led lights. im trying to get a handle on how much im going to have to drop on just powering the layout!

My vote would be for the PH180's. You need to make or buy a cable to adapt for the TIU.

so you think i can have pretty much all i need with 2 x PH180's / 2 x tiu?

it seems like so many folks are running the z4000 amd all the command control books seem to really play it up. i just want to make sure i dont handcuff myself down the road. also , to power an AIU , i figure a z750 for each should be ok? right now im planning on two AIU's. 

You will have 10amps solid @ 18v to split on two channels of the TIU. One of the fastest acting breakers on the market.

When you need more power for a channel for four or six motors pulling lighted passenger cars, you can add another brick for that channel.

You can run conventional from the remote.

The Z750 or Z1000 for accessory power.

My 2¢. Both approaches are fine.

I know you're really anxious to lay track and get trains running but I strongly suggest you do two things first.

1) Install a backdrop to hide those cinder block walls.  This can be as simple as some masonite sheets glued to the cinder block with Liquid Nails adhesive.  If the walls get damp at certain times of the year, then glue some 1x3's to the blocks first, then add a plastic vapor barrier and then the masonite.  The plastic can be glued using the same Liquid Nails.  Paint the backdrop with a sky blue color of your choice (or see the Forum for ideas).  Backdrops are A LOT easier to install before the layout is very far along.

2) Improve the lighting in your layout area.  This can be as simple as using several fluorescent "shop lights" from the home improvement store.  Making the layout area brighter will not only make the eventual trains and scenery look better but will also make the basement a more inviting place for you to work.  A poorly lit, dingy area can get depressing to work in after a while.

bob , yes i agree. what exactly is masonite? i cant put my finger on it. is it that really dense type of wood / pressboard type thing? can i use large sheets of double layer mounting board like in michaels? as far as backdrop, my layout will really be an urban / cityscape type deal. it will be a combo of flats / semi flats and city backdrop which i scoped out on ebay. i just have not yet decided on how i want to set up the various areas.  i am extremely anxious to start laying track , but im still collecting switches and track , plus still kicking around revisoins of track plans.

regarding lighting, first , when im finally done and happy with the benchwork / size of the layout, i need an electrician to come in and run power / conduit / and three outlets spaced along the wall. currently my basement is severely lacking in outlets. along with that, i plan on mounting 3 fairly inexpensive sets of track lights to the ceiling joists , wires to a wall switch somewhere. basement is very dry and warm enough to be comfortable thank god.  this has been a daunting project so far , and sometimes i think i openned up a nasty can of worms, but im committed now and want to see it through.

ok im done... I SWEAR ! ive exorcized the demons... but they got to me one last time. i reconfigured that extension and added another 8' section.  now i will have plenty of room to back in 4 car passenger trains.

the end of the long side will be an 054 turn around, and the finger will be a two track siding to a two-stall diesel shed , with a third seperate siding for steam related services like water and coal. the "grand terminal " will be on the second level with 4 tracks at least 100" long and two platforms with either a trainshed or platform shelters.. havent decided. anyhow thats a long way off yet!

im not kidding...  im really done now ! 

You could hang some 2 x 4's from the floor joists with the Masonite\hardboard\pressboard to hide the drain pipes. You could glue some furring strips on the other walls to mount the Masonite.

if you don't hide the walls now and at least paint the Masonite a sky blue, you'll be regretting it forever.

If you just deck screw the studs hiding the plumbing, you'll be able to remove the sections for access to the plumbing.

This will intrude on the table spacing, so the new run will have to move away from the wall.

You can curve the Masonite on the inside corners back in the original section. Take a look at Norm's post of May 6, 2013 to see the room and Masonite with the inside curved corners.

If you have space in the electrical panel, create dedicated circuits for the train power and lights. 15amp. Have a master switch for the layout power.

 yes, i was thinking of the plumbing as well. the backdrop will have to step out maybe 7 inches. do you recommend making a "hard corner" with the backdrop or is it better curved around?the main lower loop wont be affected though , it will be the second level where the terminal will be. hanging the pannels from the joists sounds like a good idea.. but i think i may go with something more lightweight. ive narrowed down my backdrop to one of the modular printed systems that are floating around on ebay. your right , this will be next step.  still continuing to amass track and switches. im scooping up what i can on ebay.

something i was surprised about was how much room one needs for a turntable / roundhouse! i tried several ways to fit one , but even with the size of my table, could not get it to work well.  bummer

A hard corner for outside corner leading to the new extension.

You could frame the Masonite with 1 x 3 s for the pipe wall. The Masonite gives you a nice surface to paint or glue a printed backdrop on that's not expensive.

Search the forum for "backdrop" and check out some of ways it is done by others.

where does one get "gatorfoam"  ... ive never seen this.  also is masonite sold inlowes in 4 x 8 sheets etc etc?

Gatorboard is tough to find locally and it's expensive.

The homestores have Masonite in 4 x 8. They may call it hardboard. It's like clipboard stuff in 1/8" or 1/4".

the baby steps continue...  i began to lay down the base ground material for my yard areas. i used rolled ashpalt roofing material. really nice texture , about $33 for a roll , but heavy as hell. i figure another roll will do it all. i do plan on ballasting the track with some dark brown from woodland scenics... should be a nice subtle contrast. i have the framing for the masonite backdrop backing that will go up next. i decided to go with a combination of modular backdrops ive seen in various places with some 3d fronts sprinkled in.  i also began getting an idea of how many yard sidings will fit , plus how high the second level will be (9 or 10"). the short piece of second level you see will most likely be that width for 3/4 of the yard area against the wall.  that level will have the flats front buildings and a one track el subway running past. it will widen to 4 feet at the last 120" to house the terminal and platforms.

That sound like it will look nice. if you are using the Atlas switches, the #5's will give about a 4" center to center spacing. If you are using Ross, they have a transition piece that can get you a 3.5 center to center spacing of a #4 or #5 ladder.

The ties will be pretty close? What's the width of the Atlas tie?

That can be 120" to 130" long and 24" wide.

im actually going to be using mostly gargraves track and switches with ross mixed in where i can. i am planning on using mostly GG100 w/ 3.5 transitions. they will be fed by two 0-54's at the head then branch off as required. the outermost track is gong to be a continuous loop track around the whole yard so i can have some pass through action.

Very nice, well done!

I never thought of roll roofing for a yard base.  I think it will look quite good with some ballast around the track.  New ideas all the time.

Great progress.

I used 1/8"x8' Masonite backdrop over dry wall---backdrop only 13" high on attic knee wall above benchwork. In my case I installed the Masonite with Velcro, my original intent being ability to remove it for placing on an easel for painting or papering. 

started hanging masonite today for the backdrop. got the extension done , but need more materials to work around the corner back area.  unfortunatly i cant do anything about the windows, will just have to get creative around those areas.

i plan on using some heavy duty cardstock to make a curved transition from the window area to the rest of the wall.

i cant wait until this infrastructure work is over!

Domer94,

the masonite looks a lot better than the block wall and soil pipe!  :-)  now is the time to do it!

used this snow day here in north jersey to finish hanging masonite. this is one big step out of the way. i found a supplier of photographers supplies that can do some sky / cloud pattern vinyl in the sizes i need for about1/3 the price of some of the model houses.  that will be next, along with the city scene flats etc.

That looks really finished. Changes the look of the table. I know it was a pain in the #$@, but you'll appreciate it more as time goes by. A train room instead of a layout in the basement.

Your moving along.

Nicely done.  The Masonite is a huge improvement...great work!