Mike, Thos new bulbs really make a difference in the lighting/coloring of your layout!  For someone concerned about the heat and wattage cost they really make a difference too!  Thank you for sharing!

Mike, what spacing on your track lighting?   I have a basement space about 12' by 20' and has no lighting now and about to start preparing the area for a layout.  So would like details on your lighting fixture spacing.

Thanks,

Tony

Tony, my corner layout is “L” shaped, 4’ wide, 15’ long side, and 11’ short side, about 95 total square feet. It is lit by a couple ceiling tracks with a total of seven flood fixtures. I replaced the original incandescent flood lamps with 3000K LED’s from Home Depot, 65 watts TOTAL. The effect of these 3000K LED’s is somewhere between Mike’s Halogens and his 5000K LED’s, perhaps closer to the latter. While the LED’s are dimmable, the dimming is not linear like the incandescent lamps, but sort of bunched up. Overall, I’ve been quite pleased with the LED results.

I have 15 or more track lights over my layout.  I too converted to led to cut down on power consumption, and for the piece of mind in not having my dimmable wall switch feeling warm anymore.

I chose to go with 3000K bulbs from Chamazon. ( PAR20 LED Bulb 75W Replacement, Bioluz LED Spot Light Bulb, 3000K Soft White, E26, 40 Degree Beam Angle, UL Listed, 4 Pack).  It's personal preference, but I like the warmth of 2700-3000K.  Your picture with the 5000K is great, but I still like the 3000K warmth.  If I want more clarity on the layout I just turn up the brightness.  When I use my layout for background lighting I run it about 25-30% brightness.  When running I use 0-100% depending on what time of day (or night) I'm simulation.  One reason for liking the warmer bulbs is that when running it low it has more of an evening yellowing effect rather than a harsher white.

I use the 3000K for lighting my shelves as well.

Around the house and for my driveway bulbs I only use 2700K.  I guess I like the Thomas Kinkade look.

Again, it's all personal preference with no right or wrong (unless you ask for your wife's opinion).

Alan

Alan, couldn't agree more with your 2700-3000K preference.  

@OddIsHeRU posted:

Alan, couldn't agree more with your 2700-3000K pregerence.  

Thanks for agreeing, but I'm a bit confused.  2700-3000K makes you want to make babies?

Alan

Alan, what are the dimensions of your layout and can you share some photos of it and your lighting?

Thank you,

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Alan, what are the dimensions of your layout and can you share some photos of it and your lighting?

Thank you,

Jay

Sorry for the delay, Jay.  I'm of retirement age, but I am not so.  I stay pretty busy, so I don't always get to things right away.  Especially, when high demands are laid on me.  Like this.  Geez, I have to take pictures, send them to my computer and post them to this site.  I also have to pretend to be clever and witty.  That's all a lot of work for an old guy.

But:

Obviously,  a work in progress.  The layout is, what I consider, medium in size.  It's 16 X 12 feet with a 4 1/2 X 5 foot outcrop for a roundhouse and a yard (however, the yard became a carnival with rides to keep the granddaughters more interest in the trains).

This shows it in full lighting with 3000K bulbs.  Stated above that the layout has 2700K lighting, but it's actually 3000K.  The lights have George Jetson like halos around them which casts circles on the ceiling.  The room is a retro space age style.  i.e. like a space oriented illustration from the 50's-60's.

This is a shot of an area I made in full brightness.  The hole in the front is actually a cutout for the water effect to run off into New York Harbor (where I grew up).  But it's such a good access hole that I farmed out the project to a government contractor - so there will always be delays.

A close up.

Same scene with night lighting.

Night lighting.  There is an uneven distribution of light due to the nature of track lighting only 42" above the layout.  I built my layout on the high side (42" off of the floor) for my visual pleasure.

The roundhouse and carnival area. Dim lighting.

Full lighting.

Some lighted train shelves with 3000K LEDS.

I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, but the above pictures are degraded from the originals, but you get the idea.

Actually, after this was posted I saw that if you click the picture icons below it blows up to a good quality resolution.  So, good for that.  Some of the pictures are missing from the blow-up feature.  But, that will have to wait.

Alan

5,000K is WAY too blue for my taste. It gives everything a very "cold" look. I much prefer the warmer look of 2,700 to 3,000K LED lamps.

Alan, thanks for taking the time to share the photos and information. My planned dimensions are very similar to yours. The plan is to leave 1.5 feet around the three wall perimeter of the layout and to install backdrop. I was contemplating painting the walls a sky blue above the backdrops and perhaps a slightly deeper blue on the ceiling. In turn, I want to paint the track lights the same color as the ceiling to blend them in. To illuminate the backdrop walls I’m considering directional highhats. Since the room will be new construction, I want to take full advantage to attempt, and I emphasize the word attempt, to get the infrastructure right the first time. So, that is why I greatly appreciate that you took the time to share your information, photographs, and experience. Any additional insights from you and the members of this forum are greatly appreciated.

Thanks again,

Jay

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but my layout is lit with conventional 48" fluorescent tubes in six (6) shop lights (12 tubes) with a suspended ceiling and lightweight tiles and clear frosted plastic panels under the shop lights.

I'm considering upgrading to LED tubes for performance and long term cost savings, but I've heard that the LED tubes are not direct replacements and the lights themselves need to be re-wired.

Has anyone had experience doing this; what is involved; and whether it was worth it  ?

Thanks

You can do it both ways. There are direct replacements that will work until the ballast goes bad, or you can get bulbs that are only powered on one end that you have to change the wiring. I have done both ways within the last three years, and all are still working. You can buy kits that come with new tombstones for the rewiring. The ones I replaced were T8s and the wiring wasn't difficult for me, but your mileage.....

I use daylight lamps.  get them here.  I have removed the ballast and rewired.  Simple to do.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/cate.../t8-led-tube-lights/

Thanks - John - I'm comfortable either way on the wiring - is there a significant cost and/or performance differential between the two methods ?

What brightness bulbs did you use ?

Thanks

I think both ways are about equal.  I think I used 4-5000K, listed as daylight.

Mike,

I did just about the same thing you did.  Had about 60  -  50 watt halogen bulbs in the track lights.  If I turned them all on full I could heat up the train room (basement} in the winter months.  I changed them all over to LED bulbs and have them mixed at the moment trying to decide which ones I like best.

One very odd thing I have noticed is that since they no longer run hot,  I get these small spiders and they make webs from the fixtured down to the layout.  Didn't have that problem using the hot halogen bulbs.  Not the end of the world,  just have to clean them a little more often. 

Only thing I would change if I had to do it again would be to install 2 circuit track lighting so I could have a circuit to light up the backdrop and the second to hit the scenery.  I do have high hats spaced out but I could use all the light I can get at this age. 

@Richie C. posted:

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but my layout is lit with conventional 48" fluorescent tubes in six (6) shop lights (12 tubes) with a suspended ceiling and lightweight tiles and clear frosted plastic panels under the shop lights.

I'm considering upgrading to LED tubes for performance and long term cost savings, but I've heard that the LED tubes are not direct replacements and the lights themselves need to be re-wired.

Has anyone had experience doing this; what is involved; and whether it was worth it  ?

Thanks

I replaced about 20 fluorescent tubes in my T12 fixtures in my garage. I got them from Costco and the label said they were good for T8 or T12 fixtures   I simply put them in and turned on the switch. Voila, they worked with improved lighting.
no rewiring needed.
Alan

Only thing I would change if I had to do it again would be to install 2 circuit track lighting so I could have a circuit to light up the backdrop and the second to hit the scenery.  I do have high hats spaced out but I could use all the light I can get at this age.

**************************************
i agree with sectionalizing your lighting zones. I have two separate zones for shelf lighting so I can set different moods in the room.
The layout has its own circuit. There’s also a separate ceiling fan light.

this allows for different lighting effects for the room.

Jay,

you may want to reconsider 1.5 foot side isles. If you’ll need to use a ladder (as I do) it may not be enough room.
Alan

@Richie C. posted:

...i've heard that the LED tubes are not direct replacements and the lights themselves need to be re-wired.

Has anyone had experience doing this; what is involved; and whether it was worth it  ?

Thanks

I have been doing this at work as the ballasts die in the office and Im doing the same in my garage. It's really not tough. You follow the diagram on the bulb/box or ask your friends at OGR. I'm electrically challenged and I got it. I'll draw you a picture if you need one! No prob!

But as somebody else said, you can also get bulbs that aren't ballast bypass. I don't know anything about them other than no rewiring would be needed so if you're anti-rewire, these might be the way.

Good point Alan about the 1.5 foot sides. With the width of the layout I will have two access points so that will assist. But I will have to give serious consideration to access for replacement.

Jay

I am rewiring my basement light so I can mount flush mount LED lights, they are variable lights that can be controlled by dimmers 25K to 6500K, my wife is using them for her photo studio now and loves them, they will be hooking them up in two weeks.

John please post some photos and let us know you think of the results.

Jay

Fluorescent on the left and LED on the right. Replaced fixtures one for one.

John in Lansing, ILL

@Rich Melvin posted:

5,000K is WAY too blue for my taste. It gives everything a very "cold" look. I much prefer the warmer look of 2,700 to 3,000K LED lamps.

Rich,

I agree. I find 3000 to 3500k a happy medium for my needs. For folks who have suspended ceilings, I’ve seen 2x2 and 4x2 led panels with adjustable color temperature from 2700 to 5000k.

Ken

@BillYo414 posted:

I have been doing this at work as the ballasts die in the office and Im doing the same in my garage. It's really not tough. You follow the diagram on the bulb/box or ask your friends at OGR. I'm electrically challenged and I got it. I'll draw you a picture if you need one! No prob!

But as somebody else said, you can also get bulbs that aren't ballast bypass. I don't know anything about them other than no rewiring would be needed so if you're anti-rewire, these might be the way.

It is easy to do.  There are many youtube videos on the process.  It is generally involves nothing more than moving wires to different wire nuts.  I went with ballast bypass since it seems like one less thing drawing power.

Brendan

@John Pignatelli JR. posted:

I am rewiring my basement light so I can mount flush mount LED lights, they are variable lights that can be controlled by dimmers 25K to 6500K, my wife is using them for her photo studio now and loves them, they will be hooking them up in two weeks.

I will post photos of the lights as soon as they go up.

About 4 years ago I swapped out all the layout overhead fluorescents to Costco replacement led tubes. No rewiring necessary. They make way more light and burn only 20 watts per tube. Brand name is Luminous I think, and Costco still sells them. I use these for taking pictures or when working on the layout.

For running I use several tracks of aimable small 2 pin 12vac led lights controlled by two dimmer controls. These burn about 600ma each or about 7 watts. You can set the light intensity exactly where you want it. I'm quite happy with this setup.

Rod

Thanks to all posters !!!

Great info !!!

I am forever re using things from the house for the layout.  Track lighting is one item.  I found the lights to be uneven until i discovered a those fan shaped lights sold in the big box stores advertised for attics and garages.   The light temp is around 5k, lumens are far brighter than previous lights and because of the three blades very evenly distributed.   I did have to cut the cans on the track light fixture to get these to fit but it was worth the effort.

I installed tracklighting with LED lamps several years ago, and have generally been very happy with the results. That said, save your receipts and box ends! I've had several lamps start strobing or completely die, well in advance to the advertised lifetime of the lamp. The lamps are well within the warrenty period.

Chris

LVHR