Sweet!

Very slick, Mike!!

Mike, That is Outstanding ! !  !  Mery Christmas and Happy New Year. 

Thanks for the nice comments guys! There were a couple Forum guys wanting more detail so I hope this helps!

                       Looks GREAT Mike !!          very NICE !        and  COOL !!! 

That's great Mike.  Thanks for the additional pictures.  

great idea, very nice bridge system.....WOW!

Brian, Dan and Larry thanks guys, but it would have never been built without a lot of help here from the forum! Special thanks to Rich Trowbridge, he gave me the ok to use his idea and I just changed it a little! I will tell you there sure is a great group of people here to learn from! Thanks ALL!

Nice Engineering; you should sell a bridge lifting Kit  or a set of drawing to build one.

                                            I'D  BUY  ONE 

Thanks Alan and Brian! I would either have to buy more Pleaxi glass or I guess I could build it out of wood! Most of the parts are cheap, what cost the most was the Actuator at $42.74 off the Bay!

Well, alrigbt Mike! 

A 3 position e-unit a with a #90 button? 

  I'm also biased because we have so many here, but I want to see bascule weights

Where did you get the actuator? 

Adriatic posted:

Well, alrigbt Mike! 

A 3 position e-unit a with a #90 button? 

  I'm also biased because we have so many here, but I want to see bascule weights

Where did you get the actuator? 

I got it off of the Bay!  They don't sell the one I got, but here is a link just like it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy...?hash=item283d304767

Wow! That is really cool. 

Outstanding Mike!!!   I Love It!!

Chief Bob (Retired)

That's a cool bridge Mike! Should look nice one the layout!

Bob

Susan Deats has a detailed pictorial of how to do a similar setup with the same bridge.  Very through.

Thanks guys, and yes Susan Deats has one also. I would have to say a very nice one at that!

What Mike and Susan built is really nice.  Very clean visually.  I did something like that but was not happy with the bridge's durability.

My experience with the Atlas Pratt bridge when used as a lift bridge has been disappointing.  It is a well done economical offering, however I found it rather fragile.

Several years ago I thought to set it on a lift out panel with glued down approach tracks.  A little flat black on the subframe and it was good to go.  Photos upon request.Not a rivet counters project but dependable.

I have since done it on several others with success.  The subframe also serves as a linear mount for wires without going down to the floor or over head.

What i really need to do is to use the actuator Like Mike shows to make a self lifting bridge.  thanks for the photos and encouragement!

Thanks Tom, I would like to see the pictures of what you did!

Here goes Mike,

For the double track bridge I use two blocks to basically key in the position of the bridge on the tray.  A couple of hand hold slots and a pedestal on which to mount the fixed end tracks.

For removal and replacing of the bridge you never have to touch the flimsy plastic.

Indexing dowels guarantee rail alignment.  The ends make a nice mount for micro switches.  Cabinet magnets matched together double the magnetic grab.

I use either Anderson power poles or feed power through the brass dowels.

For the base I use 1/2" multiply.  it is a high quality cabinet grade  with 7 or 9 plys.  I route the edge with a 1/4" X 1/4" step so at to mute the "hunk of wood " essence.  Flat black finishes it off.  Tain't exactly right but it is durable.

These bridges were uses on the last layout and did not fair well.  Awaiting replacement repair pieces.

What is the best glue to use on this  bridge plastic?

When you go to buy the cabinet magnets check each pair so as to get the North / South as you need them.  These magnets are intended to go against a ferrous plate so no attention is paid  at assembly as to polarity.  Sometimes the need to be mounted on the same plane sometimes on opposite plane.  So check which ones you have before purchase.

For securing the end fitter pieces I like to use non flex rigid snap track and glue them in place with a 1 1/4" Masonite alignment  strip:

Note the four tracks of wire molding around the basement door.  Three are for RR track power usage and one is for several 110Volt circuits supplying outlets and power packs on separate breakers.

These single track bridges have track power fed via the brass dowels.  Power to each approach track is controlled with micro switches.

Thanks Tom, that sure looks great! For me I use Loctite super glue Liquid form cause it sets up faster then gel.

Where did you get the brass dowels? I take it when the bridge is out the power is cut to the approaching track from both directions?

The power is cut in one of two ways.  When I use the Anderson power poles I feed the last several feet of the approach tracks thru the bridge plugs.  When I use the brass dowels I solder leads to  the male and female ends and solder to the isolated rail.

The brass dowels are from the foundry industry for use in mold assembly. 

The Locktite super glue, is that kind of idiot proof?  Any special hints for use on the Atlas bridge plastic?  I called Atlas and asked them but they were totally unaware of anything.   A disappointment.

With the Locktite make sure you have it where you want things to be, sets up in a few seconds, if you want more time use the gel.

Tom, do you have a name of a company for the brass dowels?

Tom Tee, Your's looks very well done also!  It is another well thought out and implemented liftup!

I have been using these for years.  Great product.  Makes for precision module indexing.  I usually use #4.

Caution, you MUST buy the insert tool.  They must be driven in perpendicular.

Mark Boyce posted:

Tom Tee, Your's looks very well done also!  It is another well thought out and implemented.

I agree Mark, Tom has done a great job, I have tons of questions still for him!

Mike,  ?

Tom Tee posted:

Mike,  ?

Tom, one question is how did you wire the bridge and pins so when the bridge is open it cuts the power, do you have a drawing or something? Electrical is my down fall!

WOW You are a REAL engineer-Outstanding! Nick

You must be talking about Tom! I am just an old guy that tinkers! But thanks!

Micro switch to power a single rail several feet before the abutment.  I use a feeder on each piece of rail as a S.O.P.

However just before the bridge I run the feeder for the protecting rail up to a roller micro switch and then back to the rail needing power.  With the bridge raised the circuit to that rail  is cut.

Another method I use is to run the feeder wire to the last section of protecting rail into the Anderson Power Pole plug assembly first then u turn right back out again thru the adjacent plug onward to the protecting rail.

Thanks a lot Mike !! You just gave me an idea to expand Menardsville...... dang.... now I need to get a plan going.. This could be BAD.. maybe my sons will help out?

cabinet Bob posted:

Thanks a lot Mike !! You just gave me an idea to expand Menardsville...... dang.... now I need to get a plan going.. This could be BAD.. maybe my sons will help out?

Ok, whats your idea and how can we help?

Hi All, after seeing what Tom Tee did with his Micro switch's I looked around the shop thinking I had some, but nothing found. So I went about trying to build my own, and here is what I came up with. I had some Brass from an old brass door kick that I cut into 1/4 wide strips, wired the ones on the bridge to the power of the TIU. Then made little tabs for the approaching track and wired them to the 2 tracks. The power and signal work just fine. Here are a couple pictures and a short video showing the power being cut when the bridge goes up.

          that is pretty COOL Mike !!    like it

Big Mike G,

   Now that is seriously cool, no doubt about it.  Please build me one!

PCRR/Dave