Lift out bridge vs. hinged bridge options

I do a lift out and store the bridge under the layout. I'm working on a lift up for my friend Tom.  Getting the hinge and swing just right is a project.    Here is a link to the bridge file.

I had posted a couple of pictures of the tracks near the hinge of Tom's bridge.

If you want  a lift out section that lines up perfectly , and electrically . Then get in touch with Tom Tee, he is always on this forum. He built several for  Jack Malley in PA.  They line up perfectly every time.  He is a true craftsman when it comes to benchwork and lift outs. 

When guests are present, hinged sections are great.  Hinged sections are not suitable in all places.

With the 4 bridges shown below the nearest one couldn't be easily hinged.

The bottom of the lift out is shown with the track "shutdown" wiring.

More bridge info is on my website:

Toy Train Layout Wiring - Switches, Page 2

Runner and Guest Access Bridges

Eric of Eric's trains on you tube has a short explanation of his lift up bridge. He used a simple approach. For me the simpler the better. Unfortunately what is simple often turns out otherwise for me when it comes to these things. But I am going to try Eric's idea.

Thank you Susan and others.

Someone mentioned Tom Tee builds lift out bridges...does anyone know his contact information - I'd like to see if he's available and ball park prices.

Also, does anyone know about the Ross deck girder bridge - also used in their turntable? I wonder if this could work as a lift out bridge?

I'd like to get specs on electrical contacts for a lift out bridge, if possible, simpler the better.

Progress to date: Pictures show lift-out bridge - tolerances are very good - bridge is super strong (2 x 3/4" Birch plywood glued together). The plastic girder I have on one end temporarily is from an old Lionel kit - I'll glue them on to make a continuous plate girder bridge once I figure out the electrical connections.

I need help with wiring: 1st option is wire harness - wires will be soldered onto rails and drilled down through bridge deck - I'll coil enough wire for slack - and then plug into some sort of harness. With Radio Shack gone I am not sure where to get electrical supplies? Anyone have a good source? 

Other option is to use some sort of spring contacts...there's millions of various spring contacts on the internet...but without a store to actually touch and inspect one its a crap shoot. Disadvantage of spring contacts is I will still need to solder to rails - but then will need to wire other end to a metal plate and/or switch, and then have it connect to either a plate or switch.

Any advice and/or sources of electrical switches and harness?

I am going with mianne benchwork "free Standing lift-gate Sectiion assembly". I have put 1/2 together and I should have the 2nd half done next week.  UPS messed Tim up by dropping the box, letting material fall out, and leaving some legs on the warehouse floor. I sent Tim some photos of the UPS damage and I have received a 2nd motor and the missing legs and new sliding leg (bent by UPS) should arrive next week. It raises to 54 inches (and lower if you want) and the operation at York was very nice.  I am debating about a 2nd one to accommodate a reversing loop or I might just go with a lift out bridge. Decision will be made once the lift gate is operational.

I know I'm 10 months late to your party but...  Arrow Electronics has decent prices on electronic parts and free shipping even on small orders.  I just got some 15A relays for my car headlights for $1.80 each.  Saved me $400 for the lighting module from Ford.

winrose46 posted:

I am going with mianne benchwork "free Standing lift-gate Sectiion assembly". I have put 1/2 together and I should have the 2nd half done next week.  UPS messed Tim up by dropping the box, letting material fall out, and leaving some legs on the warehouse floor. I sent Tim some photos of the UPS damage and I have received a 2nd motor and the missing legs and new sliding leg (bent by UPS) should arrive next week. It raises to 54 inches (and lower if you want) and the operation at York was very nice.  I am debating about a 2nd one to accommodate a reversing loop or I might just go with a lift out bridge. Decision will be made once the lift gate is operational.

If the "legs" of my around the walls inverted "U" benchwork I bought from Tim were the same length I would use his product in a heartbeat but unfortunately, he hadn't designed it yet when I purchased the from him. So I built a lift out span of my own using some ideas from other posts like table alignment pins to ensure, what else, alignment of the track when it is replaced. Not as electrically sophisticated as any posted here but it works well. I'll post a few photos later.

Mike