Lighting lower level of two level layout

I have done this and it works very well.  Given the depth of the upper level and the low separation of levels, at least two strips would be needed, maybe three.  Might want to mock up a short section and see how it looks.

The 45 degree angle idea would be a very nice touch and keep glare out of the viewers eye.  Not hard to implement.

Color temperature very much a personal choice.  I would lean to the 4K end, not really liking the yellowish end of the spectrum.  Might want to mock this up too.

Are you planning to leave bench work unpainted?

Bill

I would say you need one continuous strip of LEDs for the perimeter of the layout,  Not sure how many strips that would require.  I say that based on the 18” strip that I have for the desk under my staging area which is 20” from the work surface.  Since your lights will be closer to your lower level, you may need less.  But if you have too much light, you can dim them.

The 45 degree mounting surface isn’t a bad idea.  The one in my photo is flat against the platform above.

I would go with a warm white.  3000-4000K should work.

I will throw out another option.  Not sure if it will work for you but I used cheap LED C7 Christmas lights for part of my layout.  The lights are hidden more or less behind a 2x4.

Thank you both for great advice,

Bill,

Although I don't know much about what I am doing I intend to ballast all tracks. To put ground cover between tracks, and to install a 2.5" fascia on upper level and 3.5" fascia on lower level. I have already started doing scenic (if building a small railroad is my Rubicon then scenic work is where I drown)

Bob,

Thanks for the reminder of course if they are dimmable; I can't put in too many so 2 strips would be wise.

  I've become nearly addicted to LED light tape and use it for all kinds if projects.  The RGB color controlled is my favorite.  Placed under the bedframe and adjusted to purple gives a nice nightlight in the bedroom.  Same with the handrails on the staircase.  Under the cabinet edges, etc.    I used soft white inside my passenger cars and even inside structures.  Easy to cut into smaller sized, minimum of three.

Bright white was used to replace my florescent kitchen light, then I used a softer for inside the cabinets and pantry.  There is always something I need under my desk or workbench so you get the idea.

For the train layout you might consider the RGB tape to give some nice effects for nightime lighting, infinitely adjustable.  However I would use some type of trim to make the light more indirect. 

-Mike in NC,

Glad to see someone else doing multideck in O scale.  I have been referencing a great book by Tony Koester called Multideck Design for model railroads.  It doesn't answer your question on LED lighting exactly but gives some good ideas and photos for building the fascia for lighting.

Also, depending how deep you are building the second layer, you may be able to get away with less supports.  I'm not structurally inclined, but I used a 2x4x8 spanned between walls and don't seem to have any sag issues even with no supports.

Mike in NC ,

Thanks for the thoughts I just looked online. Seems there is a wide variety available in lengths as well as colors, the LED strips seem very inexpensive so maybe I will just order something around $20 to better understand my options. I am concerned that I don't put up something that won't last or doesn't give off enough light. I am not really interested in colors or pulsations just different temps of white and lots of it. Do you recommend a specific model that is reliable?

@EmpireBuilderDave posted:

Glad to see someone else doing multideck in O scale.  I have been referencing a great book by Tony Koester called Multideck Design for model railroads.  It doesn't answer your question on LED lighting exactly but gives some good ideas and photos for building the fascia for lighting.

Also, depending how deep you are building the second layer, you may be able to get away with less supports.  I'm not structurally inclined, but I used a 2x4x8 spanned between walls and don't seem to have any sag issues even with no supports.

Dave,...

After the 20th Century Limited, The Empire Builder was my favorite train. When I was 13 I rode it alone from Seattle to Chicago then caught the NYC to Cleveland....A most Grand trip for a youngster. My new layout will feature several versions of this train.

I will look out for the book you recommend.

Regarding support of upper level, I gave a lot of consideration to using dowel rod. I changed my mind to 3/8 threaded rod so I could easily adjust height of upper level to be level with a framing ledger around the room walls, I am building off a thick carpet with a thick pad on the floor.

The more weight I add the more the legs supporting lower-level sink, not much but this corrects the issue. I will be using 3/4 seven ply Baltic plywood, there will be no other support than an outside ledger 2x2 or 3x2 and the 3/8 threaded rods about 6-4 inches from inside edge approx. 24" apart, when installing I will slide a piece of 1/2 tubing painted flat black over threaded rod. In some locations they will be in the middle of freight platforms. The depth of the upper level from the wall will be between 19"-24" so no need for additional framing except 1x to carry facsia

The 2 1/2" facsia should hide the LED lighting, the fascia will be approx. 45-47" above the floor.

kevin