Lionel U30C 38419, how many screws to remove shell?

Found the six on the ends as you describe and when there was some resistance to getting the shell off I looked a bit more.  There are two that hold the smoke unit in place and nothing else really visible.

I took out the 4 for the speaker and it doesn't move enough to reveal anything underneath. I'm stumped!

I ruined one of mine by trying to take it apart.  I did get it apart.  I don't recall the details, but I think there was another screw in the center under the speaker box or something that had to be removed.  Even then it did not want to come apart.  The problem was that the shell, once off, was badly warped so it wanted to be both much thinner in the middle, and it was hogbacked: it was grasping the motors and all in the middle and had to be pried apart.   I broke the shell trying to bend/refit it: the stubborn shell was think plastic and it just would not bend back like it needed to - split wide open.

Here's what I have...

Obviously you would think to look under the speaker, but removing the 4 screws doesn't really allow the speaker to move but a 1/2"...

The 2 remaining screws are under the fuel tank. I suspect the speaker wires are snagged holding it in place. Try moving the tank as much as possible and the wires might work loose allowing the tank to be turned 90 degrees to access the screws.

GAD!  I hope I don't have to take mine apart! 

Chuck - Wriggled the tank as much as I could and there was only one small screw underneath. Removed it and still no help. I can't believe the shell is that tight so something is still holding on. (Obviously we all know when pulling or pushing is about to meet it's limit!) 

Me too! 

Anybody????

I watched my dealer/repair man and I think theyre 6 screws total, i seem to remember he removed the speaker and,  there was 2 or 3 screws under there. He rebuilt my smoke unit, and now its fine. I think he said LIONEL used 6 or 7 screws to hold the shell on. I was told finding a replacement shell was next to impossible and would be over $100 if possible.

Maybe someone has a book to show this.

Rod

I've been at this off and on all day! There are only 4 screws as in my previous pic, 2 at each end. The tiny screw under the speaker is the post for the metal plate that most engines have over the electronics.

One side is completely worked free, the other side...  Take a look at the pics the round silver whatever on the side of the frame appears to be what is still hanging up. Does this unscrew???

Isn't that round dome an imitation bell?  I don't think that is an attachment for the shell.

The shell is completely loose around the frame "except" for the spot where the bell is.  When I wiggle the shell, the bell moves. Now to determine if it's press fit or screwed on...

I'm glad I'm older, 20 years age I may have flung this! 

Interesting, I guess it's probably pressed in, though I wouldn't take my word for it.

There was a post on this that lived on for a while middle of last year.  (link)

At least one poster indicated it was the bell, but it seems the only way to get it off is to pry it. 

I really, really, really hope to never have to remove the shell from one of these!

I'm guessing John never did his rear marker light project he mentioned in the old thread.

-Dave

It's press fit and it doesn't come out without buggering it up... 

I had the old style (~2002) U30C and the bell just pressed in a nice little soft grommet and pulled out with my fingertips.  It had shell screws hidden below below the fuel tank.  The new ones are considerably different design.

I also own the newer style UP U30C, so thanks for finding the way in.  The replacement bell is only $4 and it is available.

Not yet, I figured I'd at least wait until the warranty runs out, then I won't feel so bad about popping them open.

 OK, all back together, put it on the track and I get the flashing green light on the transformer. Looks like I have something to do tomorrow.

Ugh!  Not good!

 Yeah!! Looks like it was a loose connection!!  Disaster averted! 

All well and working now?

Unfortunately not yet. I set it on the track with the shell resting on the chassis and all appeared fine. Fastened the shell down and the motors didn't run right, almost grunted. Took the shell off again and tested, running, but now I lost the engine sounds. Horn, bell & chatter work but the engine sounds are gone.

This one is really beating me up!

Well, the motors not running right is normally something rubbing a flywheel in my experience.

What model is this one, it's not the Legacy one, is it?

It's amazing all the wires in the front of the cab near the front motor. 

Legacy - absolutely!!

Route the cab wiring carefully and use additional tape if necessary.  Look closely when setting cab to not pinch any wires.  Make sure the sound switch is turned to on.  Use the engine reset procedure on page 27 of your manual. 

Legacy also has two volume controls, hold the ALT1 key and raise the volume and see if the engine sounds come back.

OK guys. I tried both your suggestions and no change. Something tells me it is a little wire that my eyes haven't found yet...  I'll keep plugging along...

Sometimes I need to read better;

Hold the ALT1 key AND raise the volume

With the shell resting on the frame everything appears back to normal!! Now let's see if I can get that shell back on. (and I do have the tape nearby!)

Thanks John & Steims!

And I'm getting the 3 flashing lights in the cab... (Smoke fan issue) This baby is possessed!!

I read in the manual if you have to reset it more than 3 times it shuts down. I think I'm there. I'm headed to PA tomorrow so I'm just going to drop it off at Lionel on the way.

I gave it a valiant effort! 

There's only one thing to do now!