Gents, I have found the 1" and shorter black #4 screws for track, and I have "heard" of longer by not found them. Does anyone have a source for #4 screws (black or not) that are longer than 1", and if so where? Thank you.
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What track are you using ?
I'm also curious why you think you need longer screws?
McMaster Carr is your friend. Here is a link to #4 screws that are 2" long. You can open it up and adjust certain features, such as screw length, on their website: https://www.mcmaster.com/screw...-size~no-4/length~2/
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Those are sheet metal screws with a blunt tip, they won't really be suitable for wood.
Here's some with a point that may work: 18-8 Stainless Steel Phillips Rounded Head Screws for Sheet Metal
Again, these are also sheet metal screws, but at least they have a pointed tip and should work in wood.
I can tell you how to find longer #4 screws but I doubt you will want them for securing track. All Gilbert accessory pushbuttons included two 1 1/4" #4 screws for attaching them to control panels. All Gilbert track switch controllers included two 1 1/2" #4 screws. These screws are round head, slotted wood screws with a bright chrome finish. There were a lot of push buttons made so those original screws can be found with some parts suppliers and online auction sites. They are not cheap and not available in quantity. The 1 1/2" screws are harder to find.
Several American Flyer parts vendors considered having some made but that was not done due to the large minimum quantity and high cost. If you want a few to try out Port Lines has some
One reason for longer screws would be if using 3/4"-1" thick foam over plywood and you want to secure the track by anchoring at least a few screws into the plywood - a 1" screw won't work. If using Fastrack with pre-drilled screw holes, one "trick" you can try is to use #6 screws instead of #4, because they come in longer lengths.
Simply drill out the hole in the FT with a regular drill bit of the correct size to accept the increased diameter of a #6 screw. Then, because the head of the # 6 screw is larger than the counter sunk opening in the FT for a #4 screw, use a counter-sink bit in your drill to slightly expand the opening in the FT so the #6 screw head fits evenly and doesn't stick up.
Maybe overkill, but I took a piece of FT to the paint section of the big box store and had them make up a small sample jar of grey paint that matches the FT grey and then I painted over the screw heads so they became almost invisible. OCD ? 
I've heard tell of people using some caulk or adhesive to line the holes in foam so that the screws will hold. I've never personally tried it, I don't run track on foam.
Richie, You got it. I'm planning 1/2 plywood, 3/4 foam, 1/8-1/4 cork Sheet over everything, THEN probably woodland scenics foam road bed. All glued. Before anyone goes off... the upstairs room I'm building in has 3 large "windows" that look over the main living room downstairs. That living room ceiling is angled such in that it's all basically a giant echo chamber from this upstairs game room. I HAVE to do everything possible to dampen the noise or wife will whine about noise every time I run trains. Thus, I need 1-1/2 or slightly better to get some bite in the ply to keep my gargraves track and ross switches in place. The layer of foam is to help with scenery elevations and as a change of density for vibration along with the other items. I'm avoiding homesote due to the mess every time you change something or cut into it.
Well, to be candid, if you are worried about the noise, I'd rethink the foam and consider Homasote. It'll make a HUGE difference in the sound level! IMO, the foam isn't going to give you the noise suppression you're looking for.
"I'm avoiding homesote due to the mess every time you change something or cut into it."
I haven't seen that issue at all here, IMO foam is pretty messy as well when you're hacking into it.
I agree with GRJ that if noise is the most critical factor, you might want to reconsider using the foam and go with Homasote. Either way, I'd recommend a soft foam roadbed under the track to help further reduce the noise. It's available on the bay in gray or black, I believe.
In addition, I'd avoid screwing directly into the plywood as much as possible - it's only going to transfer the noise vibrations into the plywood - maybe a screw every 3-5 track sections just to keep everything in place. The track shouldn't really move around that much if it's laid and fits together properly. You can put additional screws coated with adhesive into the foam if you want more.
If you really want to take it to the extreme, drill a hole in the foam everywhere you want a track screw to go and glue in a plastic screw anchor with epoxy. Then insert the track screws right into the plastic anchors. If done correctly, you won't need to screw into the plywood at all.
The foam will act as a drumhead, use homasote over plywood, you will be glad you did. There are a ton of posts about sound and homasote. There have been several scientific studies done using decibel measuring equipment and you will find the general consensus is foam is great for scenery and homasote is a great way to reduce sound. Use the search feature and do your homework.
I have found screws at my local ACE Hardware, spendy but plentiful. 1 1/4 for sure, haven't looked if they have the 1.5.
My frame will be 1x4 on 16" center grid. What about Luan or 3/8 or 1/2 plywood to stiffen/strengthen and give underneath attachments something to bite into, then, 1-2" foam to help create scenery elevations, Then glue homobed under the actual track? Then I can use short screws through the homobed to hold the track and I'm not touching the ply. I can't be too cheap when it comes to noise, I'm getting ahead of the "wife" curve on noise.
One of the quietest ways to tie down track is to use zip ties.
Don’t need screws. Glue the track down.
Plain old white glue will stick to cork roadbed and sink into wood ties quite well.
Once ballasted with even more glue, nothing will move.
You can also glue track down with caulk or something like that, which will give it a little bit of flex against getting knocked by accident.
The benefit of screws is you can move the track a lot easier if you change your mind during construction. 
I've spoke my piece, Homasote over plywood to keep the noise down, so I'll exit stage left now.
Sound was very important to me also. I used 1/2 inch appleply because a violin maker told me that multiple thin layers in multiple directions confuse the sound waves. ( sound travels with the grain ). Then I covered the panels in 1/2 inch homasote and used 1/2 inch homasote roadbed on top of that. The best investment I made was to fasten convoluted acoustic foam under the layout. You can purchase this in a roll or in 2’ x 2’ panels. Why do you think every sound studio covers their walls with this material, because it absorbs unwanted sound travel in both directions.
I used Baltic Birch multi-ply and Homasote, then I used 1/4" foam roadbed.
IMO, the correct answer goes to Ron S. But don't put them in until you're pretty sure your layout is done. The #2 answer is earplugs for the wife.
Gerry
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Well, to be candid, if you are worried about the noise, I'd rethink the foam and consider Homasote. It'll make a HUGE difference in the sound level! IMO, the foam isn't going to give you the noise suppression you're looking for.
"I'm avoiding homesote due to the mess every time you change something or cut into it."
I haven't seen that issue at all here, IMO foam is pretty messy as well when you're hacking into it.
To take it a step further. Rail, screw & wood board are the conduit for noise. You should have a gap between screw and board. I screw through homasote without hitting the board. If you ballast, the track bond is to the track bed ot homasote.
FWIW, a new sharp blade cuts the waste. A lot of people envision it like working in a flour factory. The mess is way overstated if you take your time and use clean tools. I had homasote shipped to Florida. It was and is worth it.
Some of the screws I've used on my layout. The long black screw near the bottom is an Atlas track screw. Black in the middle is associated with Gargraves track. Most work well with the cork roadbed pictured. Top (2) two are #6, Middle (6) are #4, bottom are #2. Black long screw, bottom, is the Atlas track screw.
Fastenal is where I found them in longer lengths so they were long enough to go through the fast track and the foam track bed
Thought Experience...
1) Gravity holds track down pretty well. It's free, too.
2) Fasteners...screws, nails, zip ties, staples, glue, Velcro, bubble gum wads, et alia...keep the track from shifting side-to-side.
If you have plenty of gravity available, consider alternative choices for accomplishing 2).
So, my screw thread turned into attach track thread. Sorry guys. As I try to put a punctuation point on this thread, just a last thought. Not considering weight, modularity or anything other than sound, do you guys think the 3/4 ply would be quieter than the 1/2 ply even after I employ some of the above discussed noise cancelling techniques? Will the added, albeit slight, added "density" make any noticeable difference?
I put hardwood floor sound deadening cork between the plywood and the wood frame. I think this helps the noise not transfer and resonate to the frame. I used marine grade plywood 1/2” and put track bed foam under Lionel fastrack. I feel it is pretty quiet given it is fastrack. I think you might be better to put a sound break between the plywood and the frame before upping the thickness of the plywood.
Also what track are you using? This has been beaten to death but in a nut shell atlas solid rail is great for noise if you can afford it. Tinplate is a classic compromise between noise and cost. Mth real tracks and Lionel fastrack are terrible for noise with Fastrack being the worst. Foam weather stripping the width of a tin plate tie attached to the table and then under a tinplate tie is said to work winders too but I haven't tried it yet.
I'm aware of he hollow roadbed tracks being louder, one of my reasons for going Gargraves and Ross. I guessing I'll just do 1/2 high qual ply like John used, then use a combo of foam, homasote and either homabed or maybe that new roadbed from AMR. At least the homa will hold track screws and then I don't need the extended screws. Will glue stick to painted homasote to attach "things?"
I have Lionel tubular track on 1" foam with 1/4 ply beneath and I found black trim head screws at Home Depot that work. (square drive) They may be 1 5/8" and #6 but they just fit in the holes in the ties and their head grabs the tie. They work very well, and are pretty much invisible. My layout comes up and down, so the track has to be removable.
Noise doesn't bother me. This is prewar tinplate and noise is part of the charm. for me.
