Looking for some thoughts/ suggestions for how you would use the space I have available?

James,

I used Mianne benchwork and highly recommend it. Mianie created a 2-level prefabricated kit for my track plan that was perfect in every way.

By using prefab benchwork, my poor carpentry skills were not a factor and I was spared the process of finding perfectly straight lumber at my local Home Depot or Lowes.

Tim Foley is a pleasure to work with and I found his prices to be very reasonable. You can click here to access the Mianne were site.

If you are still unsure about the shape of the layout such as around the wall, one peninsula, two peninsulas, etc, etc. how can you start bench work without at least a rough track plan?

L-Girder is fast, flexible, and relatively inexpensive. Kambach publishes a couple of informative books on the subject.

I started using L-Girder construction in my HO days and find it strong and light weight.

Well, as usual I'm the odd duck. When I'm building bench work, I turn to modular. The key is a good powered miter saw and a Kreg pocket screw jig.  If you can measure, and make a square cuts you can build super strong benchwork. In addition to the pocket screws, I also use Gorilla glue in the joints.

My thought is, this likely may not be your "last" layout. Why not build benchwork that can be reused for future layouts?

Your observation echo's my thoughts. It would be synonymous to pouring a foundation for a building yet to be designed. Considerations are what kind of railroad you desire. Traditional equipment with it's charming trappings, or a scale layout. By initially answering a few of these kinds of questions will aid greatly in determining what type and design of benchwork best suited to meet your goal.

Guessing you didn't thoroughly read my post. 

I didn't state anything about being unsure about the shape. I am just asking for suggestions and input from the members of the forum. I am nowhere near construction.

Once the suggestions have been absorbed and taken into consideration, I will then begin formulating track layout ideas, and evolve the benchwork/ framing to mesh with the track.

I know this may not make sense to some members, but you don't always start with a blueprint. Sometimes it helps to brainstorm and get the creative juices flowing, and play with different ideas before settling on one option. 

Barry,

Thank you for the suggestion to use Mianie.  Their templates are what I am looking for as an alternative method to what I am already thinking about. However, my Carpentry skills are very good, and I love building things with my hands and tools, thus I will not be buying anything prefabbed. This build will be from scratch. 

Thank you for your time and input. 

I will second this idea. I have carpentry skills, but I have some physical problems and am way past my days of any serious carpentry work. I also didn't want to spend weeks or months building bench work. I started with a 6'x16' Mianne table and it was ready for track about 8 hours after FedEx delivered it. My plan is to add to it over the next couple of years and expand to the biggest layout I can possibly fit into the space available. It is also perfect for this as it is very easily re-configured if I change something along the way. Since you have no track plan yet, this might also work well for you if you decide you need to make some revisions after you do get a track plan, very flexible.

Mianne is very nice, looks good, easy, sturdy and fast. Since I got my first order last year I have ordered a few additions and a transformer card they offer. My wife has now been eyeing it and she wants to make a large table out of it for her own use which is  not a train layout. It is definitely worth checking out.

Jon,

Thank you for your input. I modified my post, to reflect answers to some of your questions. 

James, I read and re-read you original post because, like tr18 and Mill City, I concluded you were going to build benchwork without a track plan, or deciding whether it would be around the wall w/ or w/o peninsula or free-standing.  My interpretation was most influenced by this from your original post:

"Step 4:  Begin construction of Framing/ Benchwork. 

Once the above 4 Steps have been completed, then we will start exploring Track Layout Ideas and Suggestions."

Clearly, the above states your intention to at least begin framing and benchwork before deciding on "track layout."

Returning to the topic rather than argue what you wrote or intended, or how I or others read your original post, my last layout was done using L-girder construction relying on Lynn Westcott's How to Build Model Railroad Benchwork, Kalmbach Pub. Co., 2d Ed., 1996.  At pp. 62-63 he describes and illustrates how to build a helix using L-girder construction.  I found the L-girder approach very light weight, but strong; and, flexible.

Good luck with your project. 

James,

I agree with those who have suggested that you really need a good idea of what your desired track plan is before you design the bench work. Then, once you have an idea of the limitations imposed by the framework and available space, you can modify your  track plan to suit, and vice versa.

Some things that you should determine up front include the diameter of the curves you will use, which will restrict the rolling stock; e.g., articulated engines, 21” cars, etc., and whether you want a double-main and the distance between the mains.  Also, what type of accesses are you willing to live with: open area accesses, hatches (many different styles), duck-unders, etc.?

Once you have these parameters in mind, you may consider some of what I have done – neither right or wrong, better or worse – things that worked out just fine for me.

Frame construction. After six layouts made of 1x4’s, I decided to go with 2x4’s this last time, and I am very glad I did. Not only were the 2x4’s easier to find and cheaper (at least in my area), but being stronger allowed for a minimum number of legs. This translated into a rather open area under the layout, which makes it very nice to work on wiring, etc.

Over the 2x4’s (and previously 1x4’s) I used 5/8 plywood. I tried 1/2” once, and although it was OK, the added thickness at almost the same price was nice. Over the plywood I have used Homasote on five of the layouts. But for the last two I was unable to find it locally, so I used QuietBrace (QB) from Home Depot, and I have been very pleased with the results; besides, it was about 1/4 the price of Homasote. Several others guys in the forum also have used QB and liked it. QB actually is a sound deadening structural sheathing.  Hint: To cut QB (and Homasote) I use a jigsaw with a knife-edge blade. This cuts the Homasote and the QB just fine with no dust.

Aisles: 36” and above are fine; 30” is OK, 24” is a bit tight. Anything narrower may work for maintenance depending on your personal taste. I had a 22” aisle, which was a dead end, and originally designated as restricted access only. After a while I opened it up, and so far have had no problems; people seem to realize on their own that it is a single person aisle, and if they go in first, they will be last to come out. My guest book has 177 entries, but repeat guests (have had many) do not sign in after their first visit. The largest group I have had at one time has been 22 people, IIRC.

Height: After layouts at 36”, 40” and 44”, I made this one 48”. The reason was simple: more room under the layout to work on the wiring. I made a couple of dollies that allow me (5’11&rdquo to sit on them and scoot under the layout without fear of hitting my head. I have one level (the subway mall) that is a couple of inches lower, but it is a small section. The track levels on my layout are 46”, 48” (main), 57” (upper level), and 65” (L train) from the floor. I have doors and curtains around the layout, and these allow easy access under the layout. I also have a viewing area that is 13” high, and elevated walkways (7&rdquo around parts of the layout.

Just a few potential ideas . . .

Good luck!

Alex

PS. There are several pictures of my framework in the link, below.

I also used 2"X 4" framing, white fir material, premium grade. 1/2" MDO board or a premium A/C board. 

I really think you need a track plan first.  Take the total available space you are going to use and play around with the track plans you want to fit in it.  Then the type construction of tables suitable will be more evident.  I drew my whole plan first with RR-Track software.

.....

Dennis