Looking to buy a PS1 engine with an issue, need advice...

Ask if it goes into neutral.  If not, then it's probably fine and just locked in forward.  If it does, then there may be some mechanical issue with it.  If you really like the color, have you looked for one in a newer locomotive (Read in PS2/3.)?  If one wasn't made, you can always get the same locomotive in a PS-2/3 and swap the body.  MTH hasn't changed much in the bodies over the years, just the guys.

Question about neutral asked. I'll be back with an answer!

Thanks Sinclair!

Jeff,

   If you like that particular engine purchase it and have Guns or GGG up grade the engine to P2 or P3.  

PCRR/Dave

If you do not want to upgrade to ps2/ps3, use the program function on your Z4000 to perform a function 18 'reset'.

Do not be afraid of proto sounds 1.

bruce

It's fairly cheap to fix most anything on a PS/1, so if you want to run in conventional, just figure an extra $50-60 to replace the boards if necessary.  As others have stated, it might just need a battery and a reset, who knows.

For a command upgrade, all that stuff is stripped out anyway, so it's a moot point how well the electronics works in that case.

Bruce - I wish I had a Z-4000!!

Can these be upgraded to TMCC since I already have Legacy?

Jeff T posted:

Bruce - I wish I had a Z-4000!!

Can these be upgraded to TMCC since I already have Legacy?

Absolutely! Use the ERR upgrade kits.

I upgrade tons of PS/1 stuff to TMCC with the ERR stuff.  I have a couple here now waiting on their upgrades.

Yeah - anytime a PS1 loco goes bad (truly bad, not just misunderstood) I just want to put ERR in it. Straightforward.  

"Can these be upgraded to TMCC since I already have Legacy?" To add my comment H.Water's, above: if it has a motor or motors and AC from the track, it can be "upgraded" - all the old stuff comes out, anyway. It's not so much an "upgrade" as an "electronics replacement". (Sometimes, there are peripheral issues such as MTH LED voltages/ERR lighting voltages - but not always. I just install new  14V bulbs on my steamers.)   

Next question which kit for control and which for diesel sound?

I've bought a number of dead PS-1 locos.....knowing they were DOA......a quick replace with Dallee boards and I get a DEAL! 

Jeff T posted:

Next question which kit for control and which for diesel sound?

Simply phone up ERR and tell them what you have, and they will recommend the proper up-grade kit.

What's the exact locomotive you're buying.  The control is easy, a PS/1 will be DC motors, so the ERR Cruise Commander is the choice.  For the sound, we'll have to know what you have to make a recommendation.  If it has the DC power supply for the markers and number boards, you can leave that and use those as is.

FWIW, I use LED's for the headlights, they give you a much nicer looking headlight.  I use warm white most of the time, for some older generation steamers, I've used yellow.  The difference between that and incandescent bulbs is quite significant, the LED's look like real headlights instead of just a dull glow from the headlight lens.

Forward, neutral, but no reverse is generally the transistor on the power board that controls the relay.  Three legs, fairly easy to replace, 2N5087. There are two, I forgot which one controls which direction. 40 cents each from Mouser Electronics.

Jeff, if you buy the loco, and don't want to get into an expensive conversion, the motion board probably has a bad relay, if you replace the motion board, and all the sounds work, you have a fairly inexpensive repair. Protosounds locos generally are bullet proof if you put a BCR battery elimnator in it. If you want modern electronics to work in your loco then an upgrade as suggested would bring the loco up to modern standards. I am an old style postwar guy, so my opinion goes to the "simpler is better" school of thought. 

Jon G posted:

Forward, neutral, but no reverse is generally the transistor on the power board that controls the relay.  Three legs, fairly easy to replace, 2N5087. There are two, I forgot which one controls which direction. 40 cents each from Mouser Electronics.

Thanks Jon. At 40 cents each, I can afford to replace both!