Metal Benchwork?

I recall having had a layout that was partially constructed the way you describe.  Nothing wrong with it.  It was just a little inflexible in that, with wood you can simply alter anything with a drill and screws.  Like you, I like to make use of what I have.  It's part of the fun.

If your going to operate Lionels TMCC / Legacy it could cause signal issues.

Thanks guys. Knew I wasn't covering all bases.

 

RickO, I do have an original TMCC set with an SC1, etc. Ashamed to say, it has never been out of the box. Do you think using full 1/2" plywood sheaths over the metal frame would alleviate the problem? I guess, either way(TMCC or conventional), it's not the end of the world.

 

TrainsRMe, you have a point about inflexibility. Since my delusions of grandeur(of having the whole basement) have long ago been dashed, I hope to have an area (+/-) of approx. 69'X9' with the last 3' of length widening to 18', kind of "L" shape to play with(in). If I go with the board topped metal frame, I suppose some area of board could stick out and be supported by wood legs. 

 

Given the area that should become available, I was thinking of something on the 1949 Lionel showroom layout. Obviously, this would have to be "tweaked" and not "on the money." Does anyone have the 1949 layout plan, or rough sketch?  

What kind of metal?  Steel or aluminum?  If steel, and you get any moisture (high humidity),  it could start to rust.  I remember having steel frame shelving in the basement and the bottom of all the legs rusted.  Some, so bad,  I had to cut the rusted parts off and shim those legs.  And I thought I had a pretty dry basement.

 

One thing you might do is to place a piece of wood under the metal legs to keep them from coming in contact with the concrete floor.

 

Rick

RickC, good point! They are steel. Some already have some oxidation from where they were bolted together. Will have to include a good rustoleum bath with the clean up prior to setup. Now you've given me the idea that, most likely, I will need to shim the legs to make them level and stable. Besides the wood, perhaps those plastic pads, used under furniture legs could be beneficial. Some rug remnants and a dehumidifier might also help. Thanks for bringing up the rust issue. 

If grounded and wired properly, your metal framework may actually improve TMCC signal.

If using steel, just like wood, you can get adjustable pads to make the the whole structure level.  The bottom of these is generally some type of rubber or plastic so it would help guard against any corrosion. (think adjustable table leg stuff)

 

If you don't want to spring for the levelers, since you are already using steel you can just use some stainless steel bolts with the heads on the floor.  The bottom of the legs can have a threaded hole or just a plain hole with a washer and nut for leveling, then use a jam nut to keep it from changing on you.

 

I wouldn't personally use wooden shims on steel legs as they could just wick moisture.  In addition to prep and paint it would be beneficial to have a dehumidifier if that part of the house is not part of the normal heating/cooling envelope.  This will not only help protect your structure but will also help protect the electronics in your engines and power supplies.  Over all I think using a steel structure is a fine idea.

 

Good luck!

steel is a wonderful thing. it can be cut and hammered and heated and molded into shape. if you have a surplus of steel shelving just laying around there's no real problem in using it for benchwork. i would recommend that you "seal" it with, as you said, a good rustoleum coating or even pickup truck bedliner that can be rolled on. the best part about this shelving (if i'm thinking of the stuff you have) is that it can bolt together in mere minutes and give you one heck of a sturdy frame for trains!

For my n-scale layout I used steel work bench frames from Global Industrial.  I covered the top with plywood and homosote.