Mianne Bench Work; Soundproofing

Thanks.  Well, I'm nowhere near the 1/2 vs. 3/4 ply issue, so I'll keep reaping opinions.  I know they use the ballast to hold the track.  Still, seems esp with tubular that I should screw it to get good joints.

Good luck with the bench work.  Yes, Tim's very good and we're going through various versions.

Best,

ron

i just noticed I neglected to answer a question on one of my posts. Johnson rubber roadbed is a reproduction of the original Gilbert product. The track ties slip into it and it deadens sound and improves the appearance of the tubular style track. It is made for Lionel track as well. You should look it up on line and if you plan to use tubular track, buy a couple of pieces to see if you like the look and the sound deadening qualities.

Thanks.  I will look it up.  Only thing, however, is that I plan to slip extra ties under my Lionel 0-72 for a better look.  Then probably ballast--not sure.  (I know, it's sort of a compromise between making it look like 30s-40s, and yet adding a little realism.  Probably contradictory, but so are many things in life!)  Best, ron

Sorry for not responding to your post, Doug.

I'm out of town (was at the Daytona 500 yesterday), and all of my pictures are on a server on my home network.  I'll post some more when I return home.  Any particular aspects of the Mianne benchwork you would like to see?

Guys, To find Sound Stop, go to the Blue Ridge Fiberboard website and look up a vendor near you.

It Seems Celotex no longer has the brand name.

It is/was not carried by the big box stores. You need a True Lumber yard.

We have a couple in the area so I have no trouble getting it.

The Big Box stores do carry the products I linked before but I cannot vouch for their level of function in our use as I have not tried them (Yet).

I model in O Scale.  I have an area on my layout that is four feet deep.  I need to create either a duck under or a lift gate to access my utility room behind the layout.  I tried a swing gate but an area that deep just didn't work.  I understand that you build one using heavy duty drawer slides.  Frankly I can't afford the $599 price for the ready made so I would like to create my own.  After knee replacement and my 75 years of bending and crawling it just isn't happening anymore.  And I doubt medicare would pay for it

Any help or suggestions from you or others would be most appreciated.  Also I understand there is a video other than the company's video that shows one in use.

Thanks

Jay Beckham in Berkeley Springs, WV

james at thebeckhams dot us

The Mianne lift gate is top quality stuff and worth the price, but I think I do recall seeing someone post here on the forum about building their own of similar function. However, I can't remember the thread or the poster. Maybe try a search for 'lift gate', 'lift bridge' or something similar? Seems like it was at least a couple years ago I saw it? Sorry, but my memory isn't what is used to be.

Jim Barrett of O-Gauger has a video on building a section that raises and lowers to span a doorway, etc., but I don't think it's for a whole section of layout.  Still, principles could easily be adapted.  Good luck, ron

Jay,

I have a video posted on You Tube of my Mianne lift. I can also provide lots of "stills" showing the basic construction. I understand what you want to do. I assume the door does open inwards to the utility room. I would think a four foot wide lift-up is doable. I know the winch motor I used can lift about 400 lbs. I think a "lift-up" might be the only way to go to gain access to the door. I suppose a "roll-out" section might also be possible. Could a "home grown" version of the lift-up be made for less. I'm sure it can for perhaps 1/2 if not less. I think the key is the quality of the draw slides. Tim uses a high grade commercial ball bearing slide that prevents racking. Anything less and locating pins may be needed to align the lift-up in the down position.

Video- Just go to YT and type in Mianne Lift bridge.

Thanks for the information.   My utility room doesn't have a door.  I intend to make the backdrop swing into the utility room so that isn't an issue.  I can get some very heavy duty full extension slides up to about 28 inches for a reasonable price.  Beyond 28 inches the price really jumps.  I am still looking however to see if I can find longer.  My area is four feet deep and could be two feet wide so I can walk in.  It is rarely we have to go into the room.  Just main panel, well equipment, water softener and filters.

I would be interested seeing in photos you might have.  Is there a blog or a web site?  My email is james at TheBeckhams dot us.

Also how high does you lift up go?  And how long are the slides?

Again thenaks

Here's the YouTube video of Cape Cod Northern's Mianne lift bridge.

Very neat device.

Hi Ron,

I understand your concern for noise control. It certainly does lead you to the type of material that you use.

I have read many documents and research many products.

The entire process requires that you actually take noise level readings and noise frequency readings.

The most effective systems are combinations of materials assembled in a specific way to achieve either absorption or transmission reduction.

materials have been measured for their qualities of absorption and transmission.

So, the short story of it all. First the floor. It's too late to create the complete system as it includes the ceiling below, the space in between and the upper floor. Low frequency transmission is usually the big concern (thuds). Higher frequencies secondary.

A thick rubber padding 3/8"-1/2" with a thicker grade carpet will probably do what you need it do to- absorb higher frequencies.

The trains-ahh-the trains-well debated with various methods forever. Wood doesn't play a big part in it. Wood has very poor sound absorption properties and high transmission properties. My conclusion is that it's mainly a structural decision. Plywood is made with different plys. So, 1/2" in seven ply, usually made for flooring use, is structurally sufficient to dance on, if need be, and light enough to work with comfortably. cabinet grade comes with seven plys, but you don't need the high finish surface.

I have looked at and tried different products to test on portable modules. It is very difficult to deny the results from many permanent layouts built that the homosote over ply with a cork roadbed is the quietest combination. When you combine the sound absorption and sound transmission reduction qualities of the two as system, it is very effective. You can find the scientifically determined specifications to prove it. Add that to the "ear test" results from years of layout builders you'll find the combination difficult to outperform. You'll need some help toting the homosote.

I have attached an "easy" read from Owens-Corning to start your head spinning. If you want more science, I can send you links to those.

Don't get analysis paralysis. You've got a train room to get ready. Floor, dedicated electrical circuits, perhaps more outlets and a master switch, walls to paint, lighting before you can build.

Well, that's my 2¢ worth. Have fun!

Edit: I almost forgot, I've attached the brochure for the product that I use on the portable modules. Not really good for a permanent layout, but the sound attenuation and absorption is as effective as the homosote/cork combo. It's 2mm closed cell, cross-linked polyvinylnitrate foam. Check the STC and Delta ratings. That's modern technology.

My lift-up measures 28"x28". Along this section of the layout there is no lower level as there is around the rest. The lift up occupies what use to be one of my duck-unders to access the inside of the layout. This section of benchwork is at 40" high. The lift-up goes up almost another 28". I do have to tilt my head a little as I go through. Tim Foley also mentioned that there are slides that will lift higher but as mentioned, they do jump in price. The slides also get much wider.