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I will be building soon and using Mianne modular benchwork.  As you may or may not know, with Mianne all dimensions are center to center.  For example, if you were to assemble for a 48" x 96" layout and use a 48" x 96" sheet of plywood, the framework would extend out by about 5/16" on each side.  The legs would extend out about 7/8".

How do you deal with this and make it look good?  I'd like to hear and see some of your ideas to finish off the edges.

Tom

 

 

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Tom;

Not home, so I can't run down and take a pic, but I used 1/2" plywood topped with 1/2" homasote as a base on top of the benchwork and, as you can imagine, with the center to center dimensions, you see the somewhat unsightly edges of the base. I went to Home Depot and picked up some 1" x 2" (actual size is app. .75" x 1.5") pine and ran it as a band around the edge of the base - it rests on top of the legs and i-beams. I used 1.25" brass wood screws to screw the banding into the plywood in the base. Looks fine and gives a little lip which will keep any scenic material on the table top.

Mianne is really no different than any other bench work. There is always the unsightly sandwich of plywood and decking (Homasote, soundboard, carpet, etc.) to deal with. Most people cover the edge with 1x4s or some kind of skirting. Mianne simply requires the addition of a spacer if you want an even edge so 1x4s or skirting can be added. Like Paul said, if you use a 1x2 there will be a lip that will also hide any landscaping that comes to the edge. Some add edging that extends even higher above the deck to help keep trains from falling over the edge when there is the inevitable mishap. Others simply add a cloth skirting or leave things exposed.

Last edited by DoubleDAZ

CO Hirailer, I thought the same thing when I first looked at it but with the cost of dimensional lumber and the amount of time spent picking out straight pieces, transportation time and cost, and time and waste cutting to size I will revisit Mianne and do a real cost comparison before I start building my next layout.

colorado hirailer posted:

I have looked at Mianne but wondered if it was practical for a large O scale layout, and would it be super ezpensive, or was it more suitable for small layouts/small scales? Of course, what is displayed at York can't be a full basement layout.

Colorado;

I have to agree with Coach Joe. I am not a very good carpenter, so it was well worth the cost of having Mianne do all the benchwork. While my layout is not enormous, building a 14' x 16' layout (30" wide), a 48" x 11' island, and the recent addition of a 30"x 11' yard area would have taken a lot longer than the assembly of the kits which were delivered directly to my front door. And in considering the DIY costs, be sure to include any power tools which you may need.

Mianne makes some nice convenient kits.

A local RRer was going to order a Mianne kit but we were able to go to a real lumber yard and have them slit some 3/4" Birch plywood into 13  3 1/2" strips for the framing.  We were able to build the layout including the 3/4"  Birch decking and Homosote for the same price as the Mianne kit which had no decking.

Nothing against Mianne,  It is a well thought out product.   It's just that you are paying for the convienence of a ready made Domino layout.  

Joe, Summer '09 002Joe, Summer '09 004Joe, Summer '09 012Joe, Summer '09 010

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Tom Tee:  Excellent post and photos. And your comments are well taken. 

Mianne is like an oil change--yes, I can go to the auto parts store and buy the oil filter and oil; jack the car up; remove the filter and drain the oil; dispose of the oil and filter; and install the oil filter and fresh oil.

But it's simpler for me to do this at Jiffy Lube, et al.  

Having said the above, there have been many things I have done in the house, on the cars, etc. that it was just "better" to do-myself rather than "out source" the job. 

 

 

 

 

I think what it is , is the satisfaction of doing something your self.  From assembling a layout kit or stick building your own.  We each have our own areas of interest.

One Mianne item I especially like is their lift bridge deck module.  I would use that on any layout when needed.  Quick, clean, done and it works.

One thing I do not like about Mianne is the instruction I was given at the York TCA show "Do not use risers".  The man told me it's design will not lend it's self to the use of risers.  The panel is only a Masonite like material.   He said I must only use solid sheets of 1/2" plywood decking and use incremental blocks to develop a grade.  But that aside, Mianne can be a blessing to those who do not favor working with wood.  It's all good.

The diagonal dropped valley we built against a bump out on the far back the wall w/ a 45 degree butt seam. Took four days to build the frame work after the lumber yard sliced up our plywood.  Nothing like working with quality plywood.

The mill shop charged us $1.00 per cut.  Best money we ever spent.  Perfect string straight lines.  One thing that helped us was making a stiff flat work surface on which to build the modules.  We picked up some 3/4" x  4' x 8'  sheets of Advantech which is glass flat and holds it's surface integrity.  Then we cut it up for decking.

 Creek Junction 009 

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Last edited by Tom Tee

What specific wood would I have to buy to come close to the price on Mianne bench work? I'm planning a 5x8x10 "L" shaped tabletop layout and, by my calculations, Mianne would cost $916 shipped (1 5x10 kit, 4 18x30 expansion kits and 10% shipping). I need about 20 2x4x8s worth of wood.
- 20 whiteboard studs at HD would total $60 plus a box of screws and I supposed I'd have to add leveling feet or some sort. Still less than $100.
- 20 1x4x8 Poplar would run the price to $320 for the wood, so less than $400.
- 2 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood even at $50 each and $1.00 for the 26 rips would be under $200.
- 2 4x8 sheets of 3/4" Advantech is $62 making it less than the plywood.

I was also told I'd have to attach risers to the plywood decking rather than risers attached to the frame rails and crossmembers. For my small bedroom layout, I see no reason not to use 2x4s like those used on the Hidden Pass Railroad.

alex2

 

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Random thoughts;  I have never been a fan of dimensional lumber.  It is frequently loaded with moisture then settles out like bacon.

As a certified hardwood flooring contractor those in our field are aware of the big stability differential between solid wood and engineered wood (plywood) flooring.  When we do a floor it must be +/- 3/16" in 10' to be acceptable.  I find dimensional benchwork exceeds that.

One of the things that makes Mianne stable is the high quality jig built hard wood used it it's picture frame type of Ikea construction.  It's a great idea.

I would never use 2" X 4" table framing.   It may work, but,  quite possibly there could be problems.  The deciding factor for those on the fence is whether or not you are using scale flanges.

Typical 3rail pizza cutter flanges are very forgiving. 

Scale flanges and smaller scales (HO-N) need flat surfaces with gentle vertical curves.  2 X 4 construction can warp up something nasty in a few years.

We always use lumber yards which store their plywood or Advantech on flat beds not big box bent steel fingers.

You layout represents the foundation of you whole creation.  Give it some love.  If you are not sure of how to go about it order the Mianne kit you need.  IMO, if you want to up your game, use high quality Birch or Maple  1/2" or 3/4" framing and Advantech  decking.

Check out Model Railroad benchwork one of the OGR sponsors who make truly custom benchwork.

One way to assemble a module:

Inital glue and clamping of right rear module 005

 

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