Minimum Setup for testing locomotives

It will obviously depend on what locomotives you have to test.  If they're command models, I'd think you'd want to test them with the command system in question.

My test track was ten feet long with 0-72 curves at each end.  You may want different curves if your engines are designed for smaller curves.  I had plenty of space so that was not a criteria.  Someone who is more familiar with the engines than I am could probably run it through its paces in a cradle holding the engine inverted.  John

Well, quite admittedly, I am a novice. I'm very overwhelmed with the quantity. Most are O scale. Prewar or not - out of my wheelhouse. Some are new in the box! All question can be directed to the model number from Lionel as far as the new ones. The others have been used and it can only assumed to have been purchased as used. Rattler21 said his test track was 10 feet. Wow! I was thinking in the order of 2 feet tops as we aren't really setup to use that much space for the task at hand.

Maybe my question is a little more complicated than I assumed (due to ignorance). Maybe the question should be how much testing confirms the viability of a locomotive? I only have been able to find 5 sound profiles for the one's I have. Which in my mind means sound testing could be a stretch. Hoarders have a way of leaving plenty for the imaginations of the re-sellers. But, I am vigilant and devoted to them.

You're overthinking this.

You need to identify which ones are command capable, and which command system they use, TMCC/Legacy or DCS. In order to do a real test, you will have to test the command models in command mode, so you may have to beg, borrow, or steal a TMCC and MTH DCS system, at least long enough for the testing.  If you only have a handful of command models, just let someone else test them for a small fee.

Then you need a little piece of test track, the length and complexity can be up to you.  I'd probably recommend 4-5 feet of straight track at a minimum.  Connect your transformer (I recommend something around 100 watts or more) and the command system if applicable.  If they run in both directions and any sound system has good sound, you don't need to worry about "profiles".

2 feet long isn't worth the time to build a test bench unless you build it with rollers (allow the engine wheels to spin under power without the engine actually moving down the track) from somebody like Micro-Mark.  At 2 feet without rollers, you can never test your engine at the volts/speeds some modelers will use after they acquire your engines.  If 2 feet is all you can use, and you don't want to purchase or build rollers (a "build-your-own" topic is somewhere on this forum, I believe), then you are better off just buying or building an engine cradle, putting the engine on its back, hooking up the power connectors and putting it through its test paces.

Chuck

I don't think he's trying to go crazy with the testing Chuck, just trying to assure functionality.  Of course, I agree with you, 2 feet isn't worth much even for a basic test.  I have many engines that I can't even put all the way on the track if it was only two feet long!

Wow! I hate to ask these next questions to a point of feeling beaten down. From an experts points of view, (asked from a novice who is tagged with selling this hoard), is it wiser to sell 'as is' and simply hope I got the best price for the item? And,  is my desire to test each unit a waste of time or real assurance I'm giving my client the best results?

Sorry you feel beaten down, I personally was just trying to answer the question asked.

As for selling "as is", it's a crap-shoot.

It's really not that hard to do a simple function test of locomotives, especially if most of them are conventional control.  Obviously, you do need a minimum amount of equipment to do the job.

Maybe if I outline my assumptions:

1. An ample section of track with a power connection. At least a couple of feet.

2. An adequate transformer. I have some available from 50 watts up to 180 watts.

3. A stopping block. So it doesn't fly off the end.

And of course an electrical supply from a standard receptacle.

Beyond that it gets more involved. The hoard has dozens of transformers and controllers. Many different pieces that are wired but I don't feel it should used as be the primary power source section.

Still wondering how to build an engine cradle but that can wait.

Thank you guys for your patience. I know my questions are very rudimentary to everyone, but a little learning can go a long way. Just like learning to bait a hook. You don't just stick it through anywhere - you put the worm where it will stick the to the hook.

I realize this may not be administratively possible, but if you could list the items and item numbers, then we (someone) may be able to provide more insight.

Depends on how deep you want to go...Below are some ideas  I have made or used from a cushion to a real project:

If all you want is to see that the wheels go around a foam cradle will do.

If you want to have a bit more of a look - see consider a set of rollers, these are not the best but they will do:

< Micro Mart about $40+

The unit for a roller has a spring clip to pick up third rail.

<My 2 level  staging yards &  workshop

Note below the observation car there is 2 rail 0, HO & N track, then an 8' add on shelf for some 3 rail back and forth testing.

< 3' test track and rollers< 8' run to check 2 & 3 rail for cab/tender<3' X 21' for multi radius locomotive minimum radius

Sherlock, as GRJ mentioned set up the smaller test track and then, at least, test the engines that you are comfortable with. I would also suggest developing a system for recording, and separating, what works or doesn’t. Photos are always helpful when selling on line.

Depending on where you are located, perhaps a nearby Forum member could assist. You might also consider renting a table at an upcoming, and near to you, train show. Also, it would be worth the investment to purchase the latest copy of Greenberg’s pricing guide for Lionel trains.

Hi Sherlock,

First, thanks for being a good friend and helping out your buddy. Here’s a test track I made last year with some extra straight track, scrap wood, paint, and a handful of wood screws. I added some foam at each end to provide some protection. If you’re just testing engines you won’t need the remote control track in the middle. You can build one as long as you like. If you’ll be testing smoke units you might consider a small loop of track. My older locomotives sometimes take a while to heat up.

I don’t own any Command Control trains so I can’t provide any help with those.  This forum has a For Sale folder which might be a good place to start when you’re ready to sell.

John

Sherlock,

If you are interested and have the time to investigate, I have attached a file that shows the process for building an engine test stand that many here on the forum have built.  It was written by John S. in 2015.

Dennis

The roller stands are probably a good basic test stand.    You can hook up any type of power with aligator clips and test sound and movement features.

By offering a "tested" sale are you going to offer some sort of return policy that an "as is" sale would not?

When I buy something, I have higher expectations of a tested widget than that of an as is one.