Modular planning for first timer

@Bill Barlowe posted:

Should the frames underneath be the exact same dimensions as the plywood section on top?

Bill, I think the answer is, it depends.

In part, I think it would depend on whether the "modular" construction is only in anticipation of eventually having to disassemble the layout, or whether disassembly will be a frequent and planned thing. For instance, when I built my current main layout, I did it in two 4 by 8 foot sections, with the framing recessed several inches *except* on the join side, which was built flush with the plywood edge and with the adjoining sections bolted together. When assembled, the half-inch OSB and half inch foam topper present an inch-thick edge on all non-joined (i.e., outer) sides, permitting use of a split-foam protective edging around the perimeter:

Frankly, the *only* reason I can see for designing to require use of spacers would be if you contemplate rearranging the modules at some point, and want a uniform recess along all sides, resorting to spacers along the (temporary) join sides as and when needed. Otherwise, I'd suggest either designing with *all* flush sides, or with flush sides only where joining is contemplated. Good luck, in any event!

My two cents worth ...

Many hobbyists (me included) install a 3-inch border edging for each module - except for the "joined" sides. When raised about 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the platform, it may serve as an "edge guard" for a wayward train; admittedly, not high enough for a "catch" of a speedy runaway.

I painted my perimeter border "Lionel Orange" as a show of loyalty to my favorite brand.  I also used it as a mounting surface for the activation buttons for action accessories. Handy for young visitors!

I used hollow core doors as the platforms for my layout - not plywood or insulation board, so there was no need for under-platform bracing using 1x3 or 1x4 lumber. It worked for me. Some photos attached.

Carry on ...

Mike Mottler     LCCA 12394

@Mike H Mottler posted:

My two cents worth ...

Many hobbyists (me included) install a 3-inch border edging for each module - except for the "joined" sides. When raised about 1/2 to 3/4 inch above the platform, it may serve as an "edge guard" for a wayward train; admittedly, not high enough for a "catch" of a speedy runaway.

I painted my perimeter border "Lionel Orange" as a show of loyalty to my favorite brand.  I also used it as a mounting surface for the activation buttons for action accessories. Handy for young visitors!

I used hollow core doors as the platforms for my layout - not plywood or insulation board, so there was no need for under-platform bracing using 1x3 or 1x4 lumber. It worked for me. Some photos attached.

Carry on ...

Yep . . . there's lots of ways to relieve a feline of its fur! [with apologies to the pet-lovers who might be triggered! ]

@Steve Tyler posted:

the answer is, it depends.

Trust this answer. It often comes from people who actually know what they are talking about.

When planning consider access to the track.   The axium of "problems happen at the hardest point to reach the train" has been proven many times.

Plan, layout the track and test.  Check overhang in curves with longest cars and biggest engine. Make changes.  Then do permanent wiring and track installation.     

As I learned from my Grandkids, kids do the craziest things.   One grandaughter loves to go to full power and runaway laughing.   I bought a remote control power plug. That remote I carry.  I can shut down the system wherever I am, even if they have the legacy remote. Another likes to reset the maiden rescue just in time to assure she gets run over and the engine derails.    A fence is a good idea.

@Norman R posted:

Trust this answer. It often comes from people who actually know what they are talking about.

So, I get to be the exception that proves the rule?

Leaving an overhanging bit of plywood is asking for trouble if the modules will be disassembled and stored.  Modules get banged around a lot - unsupported edges will get chipped or broken, and they can catch on things while being handled.  The frame should be the same size as the top surface.

I also suggest NOT running the track up to the edges - leave it back a few inches and use filler tracks to bridge the connection between modules.  My modular club chose to run the tracks right to the edge, and it is a constant source of alignment problems, derailments, and repairs.

I built my first module 33 years ago, for use with the Orange County Tinplate Trackers.  My plywood covers the frames underneath, no gap or setback.  I used them as a basement layout for about 20 of those years, still use them for train shows, still holding up well.

Great advice as usual. Thanks everyone ( so far). I’m going to start with frame matching surface dimensions, add a fence/wall of some sort, and set the tracks back at joints .

OGR Rocks!