My father's Oldsmobile

 Looking at the two sedans, the hardest part will be making a convinsible front bumber and grill assembly...and the current lil eyebrows over the headlights will have to go too.

How'd you plan on doing the side trim "swoosh" for the olds?...glue on some thin trim and use bare metal foil - or just mask and use either BMF or thin chrome tape?

 The tail and b/u lights won't be too bad if you can lay hands on some clear rod stock..use tamiya clear red paint to tint the red lenses. I've made 1/25th scale emergency light bars from transparent toothbrushes{really}...cut out the slightly larger shape needed, sand to size with progressively higher count grit paper{or sticks} then polish the finished piece- add gloss clear coat to add luster{I use pledge w/future floor polish}. Thinking about it, why not just use small LEDs for those...you don't have to light them but the look would be good and it'd save you some time and hassle{you just have to find them small enough}.

Lee; your talent & craftsmanship never ceases to amaze me.

Ok, I think I found a possible solution to the tail light issue, if you like it it's yours.

These are 1/25th scale semi truck red lenses...but, they can do other scale duty as well since they scale up in 1/48th scale as roughly 4" round and that seems fairly close to what I think the origonals would be...mind you I'm thinking waaaaay back to when I had my 1:1 '62 galaxie and those were twice the diameter{thinking 10"ish}.

Having once been in 1/25th auto model customizing, there is body putty for that,

and other "hot rod" modelmakers' materials in the unlikely event you are not familiar

with them (may be harder to find as that is no longer a mainstream hobby).  That

body putty is still around...I use it.  ("Chrome" to attach, and all of that) Getting what you want...do it yourself...good job.

Thanks all.  Burlington Route: I will look for the red lenses - they are the perfect size.  I don't know what I'm going to do about the trim along the sides.  I'll think of something, I hope.  By the way, the idea with the transparent toothbrush handles - brilliant.  I must remember that - it will come in handy.  

Colorado hirailer - from hereon out I will use Bondo red body glaze- not the two part stuff but the dries-overnight soft stuff.  It sands smooth and holds well to metal, paint, and plastic, and I'm familiar with using it. 

{chuckle}...says who, bunky?!

Here's a few options for the putty, that I use. There's a pic of the other toothbrush from the 2 pack...these also come in blue and yellow clear too. Also I found these knitting needles that I guess I planned on using for something, someday{rotary beacons..?}.  

The light bar is easy, but takes a little time to get there. Start out by raw cuts, then use progressively finer grits till you get a decent sheen{satin}, then clear coat- viola. 

Well, those are alittle tough to find stand alone...I happen to have a few left over from various builds...they're yours if you want them...they come in yellow too.

Also consider plastic flatware as a source of raw material. White and clear are always available, black and ivory are around if you look, and party or craft stores often have a whole slew of colors, including silver and gold. I've made ornaments and small baskets out of them by heating slowly over a gas flame. Candles are easier, but too apt to leave soot unless you have a good all-soy one. 

Hi Bob,  I know it takes some time to get a smooth finish on plastics.  How long did it take to get that lightbar to that nice finish?

Not that long- an afternoon of putzing on and off to finish it. Don't use low grits...I'd start with nothing lower than 400, then go to 600, then 800...keep progressing to 15000 and look for an even sheen. Once to that point pour a small cup of floor finish and dip it- I used this technique for aircraft canopies or auto glass, as it gives a really nice shine and dries smooth...you can airbrush it on as well{shoots fine uncut}.

1955 was such a great model year for cars. Love the GM and Chrysler offerings in particular.

Jeff C

Flatware is fine but it's thin, so for projects requiring thicker pieces it won't be so useful...it/they do have potencial for thinner projects though.

The one thing one has to looki out for with injected plastic pieces is the "flow"...say for gold or silver flatware...or model car bodies...the way the plastic flows into the mold can leave odd swirls. Painting a project the color you want is a better way to go even if your looking at a chrome like base with a tint over it{old candy paints days}.

This is one of my projects that required a chrome finish..it's pretty darn close. The origonal piece was white plastic, good auto primer, then a black enamel base followed quickly with "Alcad II chrome" thru my AB. 

Lee an easier make over for the 55 Olds is a Road Champs 55 Olds 2 dr TD. A roof from a RC 55 Chevy or 58 Pontiac could be made to fit. Alot easier and cheaper then re-working a Brooklin Pontiac.

Bob 

Thanks.  I have two here, but they just won't work.  As I said in my intro, its 1:49 scale and too small both in scale and width: can't get a streets chassis in it - not enough track.  Certainly would have been easier but this one is shaped up nicely.

Lee I said Road Champs not New Ray as you mentioned in your intro. Big difference. The donor cars I mentioned are Road Champs. New Ray doesn't make those models.

Bob

I have two road champs one is blue and the same size as the New Rays: the body casting is the same size but the interior is a different style of plastic.  Weird.  The other is larger but I didn't consider it a lot.  It has opening and closing doors in addition to being a convertible.  I figured shutting those for good, solidly, and putting a top on, and making it into four doors, was about the same work.  The Brooklin is a bit larger still and has the right roofline and door seams. 

Lee how can you have two different size RC 55 Olds? RC is larger then New Ray. I would like to see a picture of those RC Olds.

Bob

Lee do you have a Rite Aide pharmacy by you? If you do check out the $5.00 diecast cars. Some are very close to 1:43, some are a bit larger.

Bob 

Side trim often needs to be added and/or altered on my 1/25 plastic kits. I am not 100% familiar with the side trim on your Olds.....but Evergreen strip plastic glued to the body and trimmed with Bare Metal Foil is how I do it. 

BK - both the local Rite Aid and CVS have selections of near-1:43 scale diecast that I look through once in a while.  Most I see are 1:32 or 1:64, but occasionally . . . So far the only find has been a really nice food truck.

AMC Dave - I'm not sure what to do about the chrome trim.  Doing scale evergreen coated with foil in `1:43 may be beyond what I can get.  I have thought about it and want to experiment: bright silver paint on fine thread then glued down might actually be closest to scale and within what I can get done cleanly.  

Lee for side trim try guitar string or fishing line. I used guitar string to make springs for Marx twist couplers. Guitar strings are actually wire that can be bent eaisly. I'll see if I have any to let you know which one to get.

Bob