my first layout 4x8 fastrack

check out this site, they have a lot of great smaller layouts.

http://www.thortrains.net/

There is a "mindset" about the "four-by-eight" plywood board.

Extending the edge by even six inches, preferably on the side and end, will greatly improve the look and operating satisfaction.

This isn't very difficult, and won't affect storage or placement, for the most part.

There isn't enough room for the inside siding at the top. I modded your plan to a Figure 8 with a passing siding. The roadbed will be right on the edge of the table.

if you can fit a 4 1/2' x 8 1/2'(like Tommy said), you can fit another feature or two.

Small layouts need switches for interest. The cost would be the same for a 5' x 9' with less switches and more wood with many more layout options available.

So, is a space of 4' x 8' really a given?

Ok, minor changes to your plan. Connected top straight and entry to siding. use 1 3/8" for block power control. There's a center rail jumper wire under it.

Layout attached and the FasTrack Lengths reference to assist with fitment. When there isn't a combination for a short length add a 4.5, 5 or 10 and try to fit that combo. Use measure tool to get length of space then check the chart. Sometimes + or - and 1/8" fits.

When there isn't one like 4, 6 or 8, you can cut a straight to make one.

Raddo,

    Let me make your life a lot simpler, when building a FasTrack layout I now custom cut FasTrack pieces, to any angle & length I desire, using the Rockwell X2 Blade Runner portable table saw, this incredible saw makes perfect cuts on FasTrack at any angle and length, you will ever need.  In this manner your close out pieces will never be a problem again. In 10 minutes you have a perfect custom track piece, eliminating all your close out design problems.  Purchase the X2 Blade Runner at Lowes, if you are a Military Vet, total cost $89.00.  If you make FasTrack layouts all the time, it will be one of the best investments you ever made.  I use mine all the time when I re-design my FT layouts, especially nice for making custom track pieces for the 2nd and 3rd levels.

PCRR/Dave

Sam,

   The problem with the RealTrax & ScaleTrax is the foolish way MTH has the electrical couplings made at the end of each track, its a heck of a lot of work, although I have done it, I do not recommend it, its way to time consuming.  With FasTrack the FT pins can be removed from the end of each track pretty simply, to re-install in the custom cut track piece, with RealTrax & ScalTrax this is a complex rework, that unfortunately takes way to much time and effort.

IMO it's a no go for RT & ST building, unless you want to design & make your own custom track join pins, completely different than MTH uses.

PCRR/Dave

Thanks for all the feedback guys. 

Tommy, I am realizing that the 4x8 is quite small and already plan to add on.  The question now, is how big. 

Moonman, thanks for the modifications and that PDF.  It will surely come in handy.  The 4x8 is what I currently have, but that doesn't mean it is staying that size.  I built the table based on a video that Lionel has on youtube for building your first train table.  It will expand slowly from here. 

PCR, I'll have to look into the saw.  I'm sure it will make life a lot easier rather than trying to make a bunch of small pieces kind of work. 

Moonman, I just switched my layout to have the siding as suggested in your second modification.  Works out great.  Thanks again!

I have a 30 year old mini table saw. The key is to use a veneer blade. (Very small teeth)

To save on woodwork, I built my layout on a ping pong table.  If you have room for a 5x9 layout you can do the same.  Here's the link to mine that allows 3 kids to play with it at the same time running 3 separate trains:

https://ogrforum.com/t...ng-pong-table-layout

You can always connect the top of the 8 with two switches.(same as bottom) That could be an add-on later. I hope you have some ideas now to help you complete the layout.

Have fun!