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Looking at getting my Trains set backup again after being packed away in boxes while we moved into our new home last year.   The great part about computers is that I can spend HOURS planning my next layout without sending a dime

 

I need to still finish off my "train room" in my basement before I can really do anything. But the room itself will be 14ft long by 11ft wide.  but because of things in the way and having enough room for 1-2 adults and my 11 month old ( when he's older) to walk around and enjoy the trains, The actual layout is limited to 10' long by 8' wide.

 

I drew up a layout plan using SCARM already (picture 1a), but I feel it will get "boring" quickly.  Trying to balance a layout I would enjoy and also one my son will enjoy and not get bored quickly.  I already invested a tone of money on AtlasO Track and have 042, 054 curves and 054swtiches.  I plan on buying 072 and selling off the 042 stuff ( if i need to fund it somehow)

 

Wishlist in order of importance.

 

1. Minimum of 054 Curves ( I have engines that will not run on smaller. at it be nice if they could run anywhere on the layout, not required though)

2. Multiple Trains at once,  2 loops or more 

3. Reversing Loops if possible.  I'd like the idea of it.

4. At least 1 Loop with 072 Curves so that I can run Larger Diesel/Steamers at somepoint. ( I've always wanted a scale UP Big Boy in my collection)

5. a Small Yard of sorts, or a spur/siding so that I can have a place to Add/Remove Trains and Kill the power to just that section but keep the layout running.

 

 

Picture 1a.

Last edited by MatthewG
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You definitely have the potential for a more "interesting" layout than just big loops.  Like you said, reversing loops would add a lot.

 

You mentioned the room is bigger than the table but does have some things in the way.  Can you provide a room layout?  I get the sense you have things currently laid out with the tunnel against the wall, but the other 3 sides open for viewing.  I'm a believer in the benefits of a corner.  Then you could have more table space if the table was pushed against a wall and access/interest points could be gained by pop up portals, penninsulas, etc.

As requested, the Layout of the actual room.   Your Stand 30in Door at the Entrance.

 

18in wide door where the small closet is, which comes away from the wall 1ft( this is where the main water line for the house comes in)   and a small Basement window in the corner.

 

I planned on using the wall right at the entrance to put up shelving and display the trains on the wall.

 

 

Room

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  • Room

I don't have access to layout software and this definitely isn't to scale, but I think it, or something close would work.  Put a mountain the corner and you could have 6 tunnel portals.  An outer loop of O72 gives you room for the big train.  I think you can get an O54 double reversing loop inside.  The switches would have to be inside the tunnel.  My picture is a little off and I don't think you'd have as much room between the loops for a yard as I drew, but you might have some room.  Another option is put the yard inside a loop. 

 

You could also use the space between the loops as an access pop up for viewing.  They you'd need a duckunder bridge for the 072 outer loop.  But it would allow better access in the case of a derailment.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

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Originally Posted by MatthewG:

So MichMikeM, tried your design in SCARM and while it would work.

 

It does not fit on a 10' x 8ft table (basically)

 

So I'm still working on a interesting layout. 

 

MatthewG- Appreciate the follow up.  I was hoping for some confirmation one way or the other to see if it would work in that space.  Too bad it didn't.  I even as far as downloading SCARM the other day to try it out myself.  But I'm still figuring out how it works and haven't built the 10x8 layout yet.

 

Good luck with what ever you end up doing and keep us posted.


 

Below is the area of the "Room" that I'm currently working on.

 

I've highlighted the area where the Water Line comes into the House.  It comes about a foot away from the wall and goes all the way up to the Ceiling.

 

I like the idea of a 3/4 wrap around the room layout, but I feel it would make the room feel too small for others to view/hangout in.

 

I'll really have to play with it once I actually get the room completed.

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Originally Posted by MatthewG:

Below is the area of the "Room" that I'm currently working on.

 

I've highlighted the area where the Water Line comes into the House.  It comes about a foot away from the wall and goes all the way up to the Ceiling.

 

I like the idea of a 3/4 wrap around the room layout, but I feel it would make the room feel too small for others to view/hangout in.

 

I'll really have to play with it once I actually get the room completed.

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I bet the wrap around will feel less constricting than your original big table.  The wrap around will allow viewers to go more "into" the room without having to stick to the outside walls and going around the table.

Finished all the Framing for my new train room the other night.

 

Final Dimensions of the room are 15' 7in's by 11' 3in's.    Which will allow for a very nice 11' by 8' layout with a small bump out. 

 

Also came up with a new layout design, which gives me from my list above.

 

1. 1 loop of 072 curves

2. CAN run (3) Trains At once.

3. A Small Yard for storing trains / spurs

 

Inner loop is 054, Middle Loop is 063 and Outer Loop is 072 with 054 on the Bump out.  All switches are 054.

 

Only thing this DOESN'T get me is a Reversing loop ( 054 min) which I just don't think is possible in the space that I have. 

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snapshot

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I have a very basic layout that uses 072 radii (for outer loop) and 0-54 radii (for a long passing siding.) It is designed mostly for maximum operating variety. I use MTH DCS for control of engines and accessories. In order to allow reversing of engines I have designed an 0-72 WYE with a stub end passenger yard.  Although the 0-72 WYE takes up alot of space (6 feet by 6 feet) it provides a way to back scale size passenger trains into the yard and allows the engine to escape and then reverse direction as necessary.  I also have two 0-72 crossovers which allow transition from the 0-72 loop to the inner 0-54 passing siding track.   The passing siding allows for either holding trains or for train makeup and peddler freights. I operate mostly MTH Premier PS-1 and PS-2 engines so the 0-72 radii is essential. I occasionally run Williams and conventional size Lionel equipment.

 

The layout fits a space approximately 15 feet by 18 feet.

 

When I am not running full size passenger trains I remove the passenger equipment from the layout and run modern intermodal trains using multiple engine lashups.

So it been while for an Update,   I'm almost completely done with the Room.  Only thing I have left is Ceiling/Floor and Paint the Walls and I can finally start building the layout!

 

What I have changed is my design idea to use as much room within the room to build the layout.    I decided that I can work around the Water Pipes and the Window in the room and change it to a 3/4 wrap around layout.  But at the Cost of some of the features i wanted.

 

Below is concept of the new layout, dog bone design with reversing loops, round house and a small yard.   It is Possible to run (2) trains at the same time and all switches/curves are 054

 

Thought's?  Suggestions?  Critique's?     Would love to hear it as I'll be starting to build it within the next ~4months or so. 

 

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So I have gotten quite a bit done in the new train room since my last update.

 

Really the only thing holding me back now is the installation of the floor.  I finished up all the trim work this evening ( but forgot to take pictures) and installed Outlet/Switch plates.   So now on to flooring, which is going to take awhile to due to costs.  TrafficMaster: Allure Ultra is what I'll be going with because it's a Vinyl Plank floor that is 100% waterproof ( this room is in the basement after all and sinks/tubs/toilets do leak from time to time) but at $2.97 a sq ft will be the most expensive part of this build out, well other than  the actual layout/train purchases

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Last edited by MatthewG
The drawing by Boilermaker1 is an AWESOME IDEA!!!  A much better use of the space.
 
Originally Posted by Boilermaker1:

Is the only thing in that closet the water line? (i.e. you'd almost never have to go in there?) If so, why not just block it off with a drop gate or removable module and make use of all of that space against the window wall.
For example:

Room

 

(obviously not drawn to scale)

 

Suggestions:  Move the turnouts from this (top) reversing loop farther down the line so there is no crossing the main line on the switch lead.  Secondary to that, add a second passing siding on the long back straight (left side of photo) so there are a minimum of two places trains may meet and pass one another. 
  Lastly, consider elevating at least one loop or the other even a few inches for visual interest.
Originally Posted by MatthewG:

How's this for a Yard Lead?I think it will work just fine as long as I'm not trying to do switching and using the reverse loop at the same time.

 

number2

 

 

Updated Track plan to include basic bench work shape.

 

@John C. -  I can't make the top loop any longer to move the turnouts due to the door opening ( I'm already pushing within 1 1/2ins of the door frame as it is)

 

I'll have to play with the second passing siding in the lower right hand corner, I have ot make sure there will be enough clearance.

 

I've attached my SCARM file for people to fool around with.

 

 

dogboneloopswithreversesmallyardandturntableall054curveswithyardlead

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I'm not suggesting extending the loop.  I'm saying move the switches to a place beyond the crossing to not cross over the yard lead.  In addition, add at least one more passing siding to give you more operational flexibility.  The long straight against the left side of the drawing would be an excellent place to accomplish both of these ideas above.
 
Originally Posted by MatthewG:

 

Updated Track plan to include basic bench work shape.

 

@John C. -  I can't make the top loop any longer to move the turnouts due to the door opening ( I'm already pushing within 1 1/2ins of the door frame as it is)

 

I'll have to play with the second passing siding in the lower right hand corner, I have ot make sure there will be enough clearance.

 

I've attached my SCARM file for people to fool around with.

 

 

dogboneloopswithreversesmallyardandturntableall054curveswithyardlead

 

Originally Posted by John C.:
I'm not suggesting extending the loop.  I'm saying move the switches to a place beyond the crossing to not cross over the yard lead.  In addition, add at least one more passing siding to give you more operational flexibility.  The long straight against the left side of the drawing would be an excellent place to accomplish both of these ideas above.

 

I think John means like this:

 

 

dogboneloopswithreversesmallyardandturntableall054curveswithyardlead

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I would suggest that you visit the Korber Models (see bottom right) website and review the dimensions for the roundhouse track configuration. It will give you some specifics for a starting point. You'll need to determine the turntable diameter that you'll use, the lead-in track before the roundhouse and the size of the available roundhouse and extensions that you'll use. Depending on which manufacturer(s) you choose, the area may need some repositioning and minor track changes.

 

A recent thread discussed this topic.

 

Looks like a fun layout is coming together.

YES Dave!  Almost perfect....just needs 1 more passing siding.  There is only 1.  If two trains were going opposite it would make it much better to have 2 passing sidings.  Left edge...near top, right before curve, put right hand turnout curve parallels track to right edge top of screen--put left hand switch to connect back.  Good interesting layout.
 
Originally Posted by DoubleDAZ:
Originally Posted by John C.:
I'm not suggesting extending the loop.  I'm saying move the switches to a place beyond the crossing to not cross over the yard lead.  In addition, add at least one more passing siding to give you more operational flexibility.  The long straight against the left side of the drawing would be an excellent place to accomplish both of these ideas above.

 

I think John means like this:

 

 

dogboneloopswithreversesmallyardandturntableall054curveswithyardlead

 

Originally Posted by MatthewG:

DoubleDAZ - So much easier to understand/see now.   Thank you for tweaking this.

 

I actually like it, and I think I can get away with putting some elevation under the top loop now.

You're welcome. I initially didn't take the time to tweak all the connections so they joined error-free, but then I decided to play around a bit and try some numbered turnouts to avoid the reverse (S) curves. I also added some elevation to part of the upper loop and you can see how 3" is the "recommended" limit. I even played around with the yard a bit to get a little more storage. I could have added more, but didn't know exactly what you had in mind for that space, so I didn't play more.

 

 

dogboneloopswithreversesmallyardandturntableall054curveswithyardlead#

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Originally Posted by John C.:
YES Dave!  Almost perfect....just needs 1 more passing siding.  There is only 1.  If two trains were going opposite it would make it much better to have 2 passing sidings.  Left edge...near top, right before curve, put right hand turnout curve parallels track to right edge top of screen--put left hand switch to connect back.  Good interesting layout.

 

I can do that, but I think Matthew mentioned he might want to raise part of that loop, so I decided to wait. If he doesn't understand what you are saying, I can play with it some more. I also want to see what he has to say about my change to the yard.

Now this is the feed back i was looking for

 

DoubleDAZ - I DO like the changes to the yard, seems more symmetrical now.  What are the Numbered Turnouts that you swapped out?  #5's?  #7.5's?   

 

Elevating the Upper loop is still on the yes/no table, so having a second passing siding might out weigh having the loop elevated.

 

I'm not too worried about the turn table area, as I prb won't have a roundhouse, it's mostly for "storage" of engines on the layout instead of me having to get them in/out of boxes everytime I want to switch Engines.

Last edited by MatthewG

They are #5's because the #7.5's have a bigger footprint.

 

I tried a passing siding on just the straight, but it's too small to be of any value. So, I started it on the curve (again ) and here's what it looks like. I didn't reset the heights, so the 3D view won't look right. I also couldn't make things connect error-free, but things should fit.

 

 

dogboneloopswithreversesmallyardandturntableall054curveswithyardlead#

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Last edited by DoubleDAZ
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