I need your all input to which track system to use on a new layout. Needs to be reliable with a few switches and easy to install.
Mel
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I need your all input to which track system to use on a new layout. Needs to be reliable with a few switches and easy to install.
Mel
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There's better choices than your asking, I've never used Atlas but have seen it, and it is very nice. So is gargraves with ross switches. But to me if it had to be one of the two you asked about, I would also go with lionel fastrack mainly because the switches are more reliable. I think MTH had a problem with there switches for a while but believe it has been corrected by now.
Fastrack definitely. I have been using it for about 15 years now with minimal problems. Mine has been mounted on homasote sheets since day one and noise has not been an issue for me.
My railroad has a few hundred feet of MTH Real Trax, and I agree, the switches are problematic. The attachments will give you an explanation of the issues I have had with Real Trax. However, my Real Trax is 1st generation and MTH may have fixed the problems in the current generation of Rea Trax. Once deloused, Real Trax is a good track system. I do not think there is any plug and play o-gauge sectional system, so be prepared to delouse what track system you choose.
The power feed Lockons of Real Trax are superior, so wiring is much easier. Lionel's Fastrack is considerably wider than Real Trax, and it has its issues too. If you are planning to have an elevated railway, Atlas or Gargraves are the most realistic in my opinion.
If I had to start a new layout, my choice of track would be the Atlas track system, with MTH power supplies. For trolley car / interurban street car lines, my choice of track is Super Streets.
We've come a long way since 10 or so years ago. Back then, MTH products could do no wrong. I seem to remember people saying that Realtrax could be frustrating to put together. In any event, I've used Fastrack for 13 years with no problem except for one bum section.
I have lots of FasTrack. For our club's new power cabinet, there is a section of RealTrax that will be used for a programming track. Just carefully trying to join one 5" section to one 30" section, and two bumpers; all of the plastic bits that are supposed to hold the sections broke. One and done. The copper connectors look nice.
In years of use with FasTrack, one pin has broken. That was because when disassembling, a youngster pulled the pieces apart at a rather severe angle.
Both are of similar design, so I wouldn't expect RealTrax to be any quieter than FasTrack.
Whichever system you can find used for less than new cost. They each have their nuances, yet both are reliable. Find a good pile of one and then stick with it.
I have Fasttrack for the last 13 years mounted on homesote with no problems. I use MTH Realtracks around the Christmas tree and the only thing I had go wrong was the plastic conectors breaking. Had to replace those broken pieces. Otherwise happy with both, I only have FT 0-72 switches 9 of them all work great. Command switches of course.
I've worked with both Fastrack and Realtrax. I'd take Fastrack every day and twice on Sundays. I was unimpressed with the reliability of Realtrax. Fastrack is far from perfect, but it's way better than Realtrax!
FasTrack. Easier to use and more reliable. While not "handsome", it's better looking than RealTrax. Over the years, I've used both on temporary Christmas layouts. The RealTrax was sold and I use FasTrack exclusively.
For my long-term & permanent layout, I use Atlas. Outstanding track.
I use both and depending on the situation, one is better than the other.
FasTack works better with older magnatraction locomotives (Realtrax is non-magnetic). FasTrack also handles frequent assembly and disassembly better. The metal used can rust so be sure not to use (or store) in environments that are not controlled, the humidity will eventually take its toll. I like to use Fastrack on my tree layout, temporary floor, and quick setup layouts. The pins can work loose sometimes and cause a poor connection but that can be addressed with a quick pinch of the needle nose pliers.
Realtrax is my preference for more permanent layouts where you won't constantly be taking the track apart. The connection on the bottom creates good permanent connections that never need the influence of the needle nose pliers one a good connection has been made (check them carefully if you have used track). The track is made of nickel silver which resists corrosion and rust very well. Connecting pieces together is bit of an art but still simple once you get the hang of it. I do prefer how much easier it is to power FasTrak vs the RealTrax lockons. Realtrax does offer rubber feet to prevent sliding on hardwood floors and locking clips to keep track from separating when not screwed down.
When it comes to switches, I've had just as many problems with one vs the other, but I would however avoid the early "RiteTrax" switches.
I started with Realtrax and got fed up with the clips breaking off. The other main problem I had came to the curve sections. I could not get them lined up straight and flat. The rollers kept hitting the center rails and bouncing the engine. Switched to tubular for all my curves except one corner - O36 Fastrack.
Charlie
I ended up using RealTrax, both used and new, for my current layout. I think it's better looking than Fastrack. But that's a personal decision. Fastrack looks to be a perfectly fine system too.
If you decide to go with RealTrax, here's a handy little tip - I found that dabbing some plastic-compatible oil on all plastic connection tabs greatly eases the assembly of track sections. A Q-Tip makes a good dabber, and vegetable oil straight from your kitchen pantry makes a fine plastic-safe oil. A little oil in a small condiment cup goes a long ways when assembling track.
Here I am doing both sides of the tab on one piece of track, then I'll do the other tab on the other piece of track (some older solid rail track being shown for demonstration purposes). Especially helpful on brand new track pieces that haven't been assembled & disassembled several times, they'll snap together much easier.
Fastrak. Period.
If you are choosing between the two. From what I've done, seen, and heard. There is no comparison. FASTRACK!!!!
That being said if you can choose anything. Gargraves with Ross switches!
I use Fastrack because that is what I had to start with. It grew and grew and then there was no choice lol
Jim
Fast-track, my limited experience with real-trax is, its good, but delicate. I's go with what I could reliably find.
carsntrains posted:If you are choosing between the two. From what I've done, seen, and heard. There is no comparison. FASTRACK!!!!
That being said if you can choose anything. Gargraves with Ross switches!
I use Fastrack because that is what I had to start with. It grew and grew and then there was no choice lol
Jim
I amend my response. Yes, in terms of molded modular track, the choice is Fastrak.
Otherwise, I too would go with Gargraves and Ross.
I used MTH product because I too had a supply of it. But when I break down this layout, I will definitely go Gargraves/Ross.
And the winner is?
Thanks to everyone that replied. I am trying to help a lady and her husband design and build a small layout. I am well aware that the best way to go would be Gargraves and Ross switches. That would be way above there current skill level.
Thanks Mel
I have a bit of experience with both. I prefer Fastrack because of Magnatraction. My motive power is Lionel single-motor NW2, single motor GP7-9 and single-motor F3. My freight trains vary from 6 to 9 cars plus caboose and with Realtrax (nickel-silver non-magnetic rail) there is too much wheel slippage. Magnatraction on Fastrack rocks.
WRT layout design I also prefer Fastrack because more versatility regarding uncoupler-track placement. My small (mostly switching) layout has 12 remote uncouplers and I require near 100% coupling performance. Coupling coming off a curve is only reliable with a 5" straight between the curve and the uncoupler section. With Realtrax one loses about 3" of room on the siding because Realtrax uncoupling tracks are 10" long with the uncoupler centered thereon.
WRT appearance (obviously entirely subjective) I prefer Fastrack to any available Magnatraction-suitable 3rail O gauge track. While all available track has over-height rail Fastrack has the lowest rail profile. Also, Fastrack has the closest to scale tie spacing and tie width. Again, my subjective 2 cents worth.
Realtrax is easy to assemble as long as one holds the two pieces to be joined at a vertical angle to one another while joining together. Fastrack can have electrical continuity issues unless one gives each center-pin a slight bend in the direction of the next mating pin. This insures a tight friction fit. Also I find that Fastrack requires frequent connections to a pair of buss wires under the tablework to prevent voltage drop.
Lew
Gilly@N&W posted:Both are of similar design, so I wouldn't expect RealTrax to be any quieter than FasTrack.
The large LaValley's layout in West Lebanon, New Hampshire, uses both RealTrax and FasTrack. The RealTrax sections are noticeably quieter.
Matt_GNo27 posted:Gilly@N&W posted:Both are of similar design, so I wouldn't expect RealTrax to be any quieter than FasTrack.The large LaValley's layout in West Lebanon, New Hampshire, uses both RealTrax and FasTrack. The RealTrax sections are noticeably quieter.
Agreed. I have used both simultaneously and on identical benchwork. Realtrax is much quieter than Fastrack. Since I only ever run one train at a time noise isn't an issue and I find that I actually prefer the sound from Fastrack, especially in tunnels. :~)
Lew
I totally agree with what has been said, I have FasTrack and it serves my purpose when I put it down to run some of my trains at Christmas. However, I'm about to embark on a painting and weathering mission to improve the look of FasTrak, when done, I think it will look even better.
Atlas 21st Century track is really nice too but it is hard to find and pretty expensive.
NO NO NO.........you DO NOT want that junk called RealTrax. Look at all these "band aid" fixes that one might need to get this junk to work. I have all generation one and two RealTrax, and the stuff isn't worth the money at all. The aforementioned switches? Holy Cow are they the worst!
I almost believe what someone once said, "MTH is really a Marketing Company"; they don't care about product longevity. I have never been able to set up a Carpet Central without something going wrong. If not almost immediately, then it will usually surface pretty soon. Mind you i clean my RealTrax before I unpack it.......and frequently wipe it down with an approved cleaner on an old, clean hand towel during a break in train operation. And I clean it always before putting it away. Had a buddy, who owns a LHS and is a Master Commercial Electrician take a look at the multitude of switch problems over the years. We tested switches (turnouts) at his bench down at the shop......the end result was RealTrax has become the butt of many jokes. If you look closely and flex some of the metal parts (gently) one can see that the RealTrax was ruinously cheapened after the generation one version. The tabs at the end are a joke, I'm a designer by trade, and my grandmother (rest her soul) could do better!
My wallet really suffers...and I will "unload" this junk someday.
Go Fastrack my friend. I started out with MTH's Realtrax for my Christmas Carpet Central layout many years ago and it was a disaster. I was never so frustrated in my entire life, nothing but continuity problems. Went to Fastrack a year later and to date have not experienced any problems whatsoever-and that was over ten years ago.
FasTrack has a number of short straight sections while Realtrax doesn't. Those short straights are very helpful if building a track plan other than an oval or some other symmetrical plan.
I used FasTrack on my layout and I'm happy with it.
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