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Hello everyone! This is gonna be a long post, so please strap in!

The time has finally come in my life for me to start building my holiday "train board".  You see, when I was a child my dad built a train board that we would bring into the house every year for Christmas.  It sat on the floor and the Christmas tree went in the middle of it.....naturally!   It was a multi gauge layout consisting of a loop of O,HO, and N.  And it was awesome!  I knew it like the back of my hand!  It was so exciting every year putting it up with my brother. " I know where this house goes!" We loved it, and I am finally in the position to build my own.....   But of course I want to step it up a notch!

Now right off the bat the hardest part of this I know is going to be the "Winter" layout part.  I want this to be a snow scene. Particularly maybe even a light dusting scene set at the end of the steam era.  I know the issue is going to be the snow.  I know that I cant glue it down. I know that over time it will dirty and yellow.  So my first question is how do I make a realistic snow scene year after year that will not yellow?  Will I have to hand apply snow each year? Am I putting my locos in danger of picking up hand applied snow into the gear train?  I'd love some advice on how I can pull this off!



Let me give some more insight to what I am trying to pull off.  Id like to build a roughly 11 foot x 5.5 foot holiday train board that is light enough to be moved as a single piece. The Christmas tree will be on the board in the center.  I plan to run 2 loops of O gauge on the perimeter (63 outer/54 inner) and then some sort of HO loop with yards/sidings in the middle. The entire layout minus the outer O tracks will be modeled in HO. (More room to work with in the confined space)



Basically I need all the help and ideas you all can think of! I know there are amazing people on this forum with great ideas and many decades of experience and I am in need of your guidance. Please flood me with your recommendations!



Thank you all! I have attached a picture of the train layout we had when I was a boy. This picture is from the early to mid 90's and you can see my younger brother in the background!



20211227_201238

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Last edited by 92hatchattack
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Hello everyone! This is gonna be a long post, so please strap in!

The time has finally come in my life for me to start building my holiday "train board".

Let me give some more insight to what I am trying to pull off. Id like to build a roughly 11 foot x 5.5 foot holiday train board that is light enough to be moved as a single piece. The Christmas tree will be on the board in the center.  I plan to run 2 loops of O gauge on the perimeter (63 outer/54 inner) and then some sort of HO loop with yards/sidings in the middle. The entire layout minus the outer O tracks will be modeled in HO. (More room to work with in the confined space)

Since my carpentry skills are nearly non-existent, I'll leave it to others to tell you how to build an 11' X 5 1/2' layout that's light enough to be moved in one piece.

My last layout was 15' X 6' with an O-64 outer loop and an O-54 inner loop using Ross Sectional Track.  I put 3 1/2" "fitter" pieces of Ross Section Track between the turnouts connecting the two loops which, in turn, provided great side clearance, preventing any side-swiping concerns.  Here's a 3-D illustration of that layout.  You could probably take some of the straight track out to get down to 11'.  A 5 1/2 foot width works out to 66 inches, so I don't know if O-64 or even O-63 would work well.  Maybe you could figure a way to extend the width to 6'.

Last Layout - Cropped 3D View - Scenery Design - 01 Aug 09 - Lighthouse Point RR 6 x 15

I hope this info helps.

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  • Last Layout - Cropped 3D View - Scenery Design - 01 Aug 09 - Lighthouse Point RR 6 x 15

Obtain two pieces of lumber that look like the ends of a quilt holder and put casters on the bottom of each piece.  Then connect the two pieces of lumber with a very strong piece of tubular steel piping that is as long as you want the layout.  Now, put your tabletop together with sturdy plywood and attach it to the steel pipe using as many steel u-channel pieces you feel comfortable using.  With that done, your table top should rotate completely around the steel pipe.

You can have a 6' wide tabletop such that 3' extends below the pipe level and 3' extends above the pipe level.   Since you will need the table top to parallel the floor to run trains, chose which side you want to be the top and attach retractable legs to the other side.  The retractable legs will have to be as long as the quilt holder ends plus the casters that you added to them.  Now, when you want to move it, simply retract the legs, rotate the table top to vertical to floor position, and push it on the casters wherever you want it.  Total height from bottom of casters to edge of tabletop should be no more than 75" and easily fit through the average doorway.

Chuck

Last edited by PRR1950

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