Need suggestions for wheel conversion

Tom

I have done it, using a Dremmel to cut the side off. The existing coupler are positioned just right to mount the new truck. I have done a complete custom KCS passenger set like this.

A better choice is to find a beater 8 wheel wedge tender. Remove the shell and add the shell you want. The tender base has extra slots, but your shell will still fit just fine. Keep in mind you will then have a tab & slot on one end and a auto coupler on the the other so you will need to decide which coupler type to keep. I buy the tenders in batches when I can find beaters cheap enough. That give me a good supply of frames, couplers, trucks etc.

Steve

Also, Robert Grossman and Al Schindler carry newly manufactured scale trucks, if you want to go that route.

Very nice work there, "Papa"!

I also like to "remanufacture" and "improve" Marx items.

Great ideas.  Thanks.  I have a pair of repro couplers (need the springs) and will try to find the tender.

Question #4: I looked at my existing tender and it appears the tab coupler is separate from the front truck, being a simple piece of metal between the truck and the floor of the tender.  Why couldn't I drill out the rivet and attach the new coupler to the truck frame and bolt or rivet it back together?

Your thinking is right on track.   That's the way to go if you want fork-tilt couplers at both ends.  I have been told, but don't know personally, that Target has the brass rivets.

Tom

Grossman will have the eyelets and the tool for installing them. I use the tool a lot.

Steve

Looks like this is going to be a simple project, just a bit time consuming.

Thanks.

I needed this to supply coal to my coaling station and it will likely be parked underneath most of the time, but just in case I want to pull it around once in awhile..... 

Okay, here's what you folks have done for me:

I got two wedge tender frames from tnk big  (thanks), removed the wheels  and the frame from my 6" hopper by bending three tabs out on each side, and pulled the old frame off.

I straightened the tabs on the tender frame and put it on the hopper.  All the slots matched up without cutting anything new so all I had to do was push it all together tightly and bend the tabs back over.

I will remove the wheels on the "front"tender truck, cut the tang off of the tab-and slot coupler" and replace it with a tilt fork "butterfly coupler and spring that I bought, then put the wheels back on.  No need to replace the truck or mess around with rivets...this time.

One down, one to go.

So far I'm into the project about ten minutes and it will be around a half hour more, mostly because of that tiny little wire coupler spring which seems to defy me and the laws of physics.

I might invest some time with a bit of steel wool and some paint, but I'm not convinced it's necessary yet.

Thanks for the information and encouragement.

Tom

I bet if you ran a heavy magnet around my garage, you would come up with a dozen or so of those springs that have jumped into hiding.

Steve

Devious and depraved little springs have always messed with me.  When I was still in HO it was those itty little coupler and side frame springs that would hide and taunt me.  Now it's 027 couple springs.  

What's next? 

Agreed, that the springs are frustrating, but I've had the best success this way:

Lay the car upside down in an engine cradle.  The front wheels, at least, should be off.

Hold the upside-down coupler in the left hand and the spring inserted thru it using the right.

Insert the rear nub thru its hole and gently lower the front to its position.

With your 3rd hand keep the truck from swivelling.  

Bend whichever tab you need to in order to hold the coupler in place.

Use long tweezers to coax the other end of the spring into its slot.

Doesn't hurt to have a high intensity lamp shining on the project, either.