I'm planning to build on top of 2" foam isulation for quietness and ability to carve stream beds, etc.
QUESTION: How do you affic Fastrack or Ross Track to the foam? Glue? Seems like 1 1/2" screws would not get enough 'bite' to be secure.
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I'm planning to build on top of 2" foam isulation for quietness and ability to carve stream beds, etc.
QUESTION: How do you affic Fastrack or Ross Track to the foam? Glue? Seems like 1 1/2" screws would not get enough 'bite' to be secure.
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Do not glue it. It is much better to attach via screws. I would suggest 2 inch screws because if you go through the track it should not come out through the foam--maximum grip.
Do not glue it. It is much better to attach via screws. I would suggest 2 inch screws because if you go through the track it should not come out through the foam--maximum grip.
Drill a hold slightly smaller than plastic anchor...you won't need glue.
If it were me I would use the blue foam and drill a hole a bit smaller than the screw. Forget about the plastic anchors. Put some glue into the hole. Screw it and forget it. When that glue dries it should hold the screw in place. Test out a few screws first to see if they hold good enough. I'm sure they will. All those plastic anchors will get expensive.
Rick
Good ideas on not using ancors and just pouring some glue in hole. Attached is my 1st 'test table' for this new layout. 4x4 made of 1x2 and 1x4 pine w/1/2" CDX Plywood and then 2" foam. My last layout was similar size and all 2x4's...to big..it was like a stage for a drummer. I'm thinking of putting whells on this & the other 4x7 unit so it can be moved if necessary.
Why bother anchoring the track? Fastrack is incredibly stable; once it's all connected, Ive found it just doesn't move around.
I think it might 'slip a bit on the 2" foam top, especially with a fast moving Lionel 763. That said, if I put ballast on it like I did before, the glue/H20 mix should keep it in place. See picture using Brummy's ground rubber ballast (also helps cut noise down w/Fastrack).
USE SCREWS INITIALLY. AFTER YOU APPLY SCENERY, AND THE EARTH, WEEDS, AND MISC. GROUND COVER THAT YOU WILL GLUE DOWN, AND OVERLAP THE BALLAST WITH WILL BE PLENTY STRONG TO HOLD THE TRACK IN PLACE. THEN REMOVE ALL THE SCREWS! THEY ARE AN UNSIGHTLY DISTRACTION! REGARDS CLIFFORD
I have one screw in my whole fastrack layout roughly 500' of track
Ken M
I have one screw in my whole fastrack layout roughly 500' of track
Ken M
Thank you Mark
Draws are really cool idea..
Layout is Huge
Nice Job !!
The foam won't reduce the sound to any real degree. I tested this with a loop and the noise only went down by less than 5 dB. That said, the foam is still good to have for terrain carving.
Ballast should be more than enough to hold the track in place. Screwing into the wood will only cause the track vibrations to be carried to the plywood where they will then resonate causing additional noise (again, tested that theory).
Here is my proposed 4x11 Layout. Atlas 21st Centry track & switches. Blue line in 045. Black is 036 & 027. I've added about 6 inches on width so now it's 4.6 x 11, to accomadate the BLUE LOOP up to small forest/mountain, which can be expanded.
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