Another New Layout Build Thread :) ! -- Lift Section is Operational !!!

Dennis:

Nice work!

Looking forward to seeing more of your power distribution center as you progress.

Stan

Looks great, Dennis!!  I’m looking forward to seeing more

Mark,

I was watching your progress, with interest, as you built your lift bridge.  I have a 32" span that I am going to attempt to put lift in.  It will contain 5 curved portions of track, so it should be interesting to design.  I would like to put it on a linear actuator with a joystick, but we shall see as things progress.

I love your power center, I am going to do something like that on my layout (my table is basically the same as yours, probably smaller dimensions). Only difference is I likely will have a control panel since at the moment, planning on wiring for conventional block control given all my stuff is conventional.

I don't have five curved tracks on the lift-bridge, but the tracks I do have mate up just fine when the bridge goes up and down.  As you probably know, I used the Mianne lift-bridge, this one is 48" wide and 54" deep.

John,

That's some fine trackwork with that double-slip switch right on the edge of your lift bridge.  I sure hope that doesn't come back to haunt you some day!

Chuck

John,

What does the hinge mechanism look like for that lift "panel"?  As you may not know, I used "dennis" benchwork for mine !  But, I bet the lifting aspect could be tailored to fit my lift panel.  I figured on laying the track out on the hinged section, securing it down, and then cutting the track in strategic places.  It all sounds good!

The layout (13' by 32') is split into two halves right above the control panel and on the other end where the lift section will be.  On the outer 3 loops, there is a separate 180 watt power brick for each half of each loop - which are mounted on each side of the power center.  I wanted conventional control on the inner two loops and the ZW-L gives that option, as well as command control if I choose.

Dennis

Chuck, it may indeed bite me in the future, but I have it working well right now.   In trying to fit the track plan in, that's where it ended up.  I originally was using four switches there for a double cross-over, but as you can see, adding the inside loop and the siding on the other side made it necessary to come up with another solution.  This is what I started with...

@dennish posted:

John,

What does the hinge mechanism look like for that lift "panel"?  As you may not know, I used "dennis" benchwork for mine !  But, I bet the lifting aspect could be tailored to fit my lift panel.  I figured on laying the track out on the hinged section, securing it down, and then cutting the track in strategic places.  It all sounds good!

The layout (13' by 32') is split into two halves right above the control panel and on the other end where the lift section will be.  On the outer 3 loops, there is a separate 180 watt power brick for each half of each loop - which are mounted on each side of the power center.  I wanted conventional control on the inner two loops and the ZW-L gives that option, as well as command control if I choose.

Dennis

There's no "hinge", the lift-bridge comes straight up.  Here it is up, down, and just before the tracks mate.  It actually moves on what appears to be heavy-duty drawer slides.  Once you get everything leveled, the bridge is quite precise in it's mating, and I've had no problem with the tracks lining up properly when it's down.  I actually have the tracks on the bridge slightly overhanging the edge to insure I don't catch the stationary sections of track with the moving bridge.  There is a cable system and winch motor that raises and lowers the span.  The cable loop you see along the sides bring the power and switch controls to the stuff on the bridge.

Lift-Bridge Raised (Open)

Lift-Bridge Lowered (Closed)

Lift-Bridge Just Before Mating On Closing

Speaking of power centers, here's my control center with power and command/WiFi systems.

I run 98% command, so I have the PH180 bricks.  For conventional, I have the two variable channels on the MTH TIU, one on the mainline and one on sidings. Along the top row are the DCS Perpetual Watchdog generators for everything but the mainline.

All my DZ-2500 switch machines come to the punch-down blocks near the bottom.  Right now the wiring is in flux, I'm working on a fix for the serial data issues for the CSM2 LCS boxes so I can clean up the wiring and lose the DZ-1002 Data Driver.  The relay boards at the top are for switching power to sidings remotely.  Most of my control wiring is CAT5 Ethernet cable.

John,

I like the lift, but I don't think I would be able to create something of that nature from scratch!  It sure does look nice and it is functional.  There were several threads on the forum about using hinged sections and linear actuators to lift the section.  That was my plan.  I can still crawl on my hands and knees (for now) but you never know what the future holds.  This should be the last layout I build for myself !

I decided to stay away from the TIU (cost, availability, ignorance, etc.) and actually prefer to use just the Legacy remote for controlling trains.  For my MTH locomotives, I have no problems running them conventionally.

I can barely make a phone call on my phone, let alone use it to run trains !!!!!  So the Wi-Fi option was a no brainer for me - literally !

But, I do like your control center - out of the way, but accessible !

I have no issue crawling under today, but the lift bridge was for tomorrow.  As you say, you never know what tomorrow brings!

For the space you have for your lift gate, I don't know that you could use the Mianne lift bridge, it assumes you have a foot on either side of the actual lift section for the fixed portion of the structure.  This is what the whole kit looks like, the lift section can be anything from around 24" wide to what I have 48" wide.  The depth is also variable, mine is as wide as they allow as well.

The good part of my power and control panels is they don't have to be accessible for everyday running.  Everything runs from the Legacy/TMCC and DCS remotes, and I also have the WiFi capability for both MTH and Lionel.  I'll be using the LCS on the iPad for controlling the switches and having a visual indication of all the route settings is nice. One cool feature of the LCS WiFi is my computer has direct access to the Legacy base via the Legacy System Utility (LSU) application.  I can do base backups, add and delete engines and their descriptions, accessories, switches, routes, etc., all from a full keyboard.  Doing this on the CAB2 is a PITA, so I really appreciate how easy it is to do it with the computer.

My transformer power control and any required circuit breaker resets all happen from my little power controller.  I can reset any of the four PH180 from this remote and also kill power to the entire layout.  I have four of these, usually when operating I keep one in my pocket.

I would show you my lift, but I am sure you already seen it. LOL

GRJ, Dumb question, with the tracks on either side of the lift bridge, did you lay the track across solid then cut the rails on either side? Also, did you do anything to make it so if the bridge is up, trains cannot approach it? Or because you don't go  'inside' the layout much, you simply have the master power off and don't worry about it?

Yes, I put the bridge down, laid all the track, and then used the Dremel with a 90 degree cutting adapter to cut the rails.

I haven't done anything to protect against the bridge being up, it's a fairly complicated issue.  There are three power districts represented by the bridge tracks, each would have to be individually switched.  Given this is a fairly small space, I'm just counting on not having stupid people running trains and manipulating the bridge.  I can always kill the power to the lift bridge for any operating session if I feel the need to protect against inadvertent bridge openings.  So far, there's only been a handful of people over, and they've all been smart enough not to raise the bridge when a train is trying to cross.

@dennish posted:

Mark,

I was watching your progress, with interest, as you built your lift bridge.  I have a 32" span that I am going to attempt to put lift in.  It will contain 5 curved portions of track, so it should be interesting to design.  I would like to put it on a linear actuator with a joystick, but we shall see as things progress.

Dennis, a curved lift up bridge would look great!  I’ll look forward to seeing your progress!

@mike g. posted:

I would show you my lift, but I am sure you already seen it. LOL

Yes, Dennis has seen mine and it is an adaptation of Mike’s.

Dennis I do want to say you are smart in planning ahead for a time when you may not be as able as you are now.  When I started planning my current layout, I specified it had to be either walk-in or have a lift up entrance, with arm reach access to everything.  I was 61 and could still crawl around and wiggle into tight spots.  When I was 63, I had to have a knee replacement, and I can’t put my weight on it ever again.  Two weeks ago I had a double back fusion, and I am not quite 65 yet.  I didn’t have any accidents; all of it was described by the surgeons as wear and tear.  What a difference in less than 4 years.  I’m glad I planned for the future!!!!!

@Mark Boyce posted:

I was 61 and could still crawl around and wiggle into tight spots.  When I was 63, I had to have a knee replacement, and I can’t put my weight on it ever again.  Two weeks ago I had a double back fusion, and I am not quite 65 yet.  I didn’t have any accidents; all of it was described by the surgeons as wear and tear.  What a difference in less than 4 years.  I’m glad I planned for the future!!!!!

I guess at close to 78 and still able to crawl under the layout I don't have any complaints to lodge!   However, planning for the future was what the lift bridge was all about, I'm suspect my "flexible" days are living on borrowed time.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I guess at close to 78 and still able to crawl under the layout I don't have any complaints to lodge!   However, planning for the future was what the lift bridge was all about, I'm suspect my "flexible" days are living on borrowed time.

John, you have done well.  I took my dad to the doctor with a sore knee when he was in his late 80s, and one steroid shot fixed him right up.  I have not fared as well as he has because arthritis is getting me everywhere.  He would get sore muscles from working on things, but after a day resting, he was back at it.  I have to plan for the future differently than he did.

Going back to the beginning, here are some shots of the benchwork that I made.  Most of it was made out in the shop and assembled in the basement.

Recessed for the facia boards

Wow! That is excellent work!

Peter

John,

I have that remote that you pictured and plan to use it to control my Lemax rides.

Just how are you able to reset the 180 bricks from a dead short.  I would think you would need to press the circuit breaker back in.

Based on your answer I should be able to reset a  dead short on my ZW-L without having to press the circuit breaker back in.

When you turn off the power to the PH180 brick, that resets the breaker.  When you turn it back on, if the short is cleared, all is well.  To reset them I just turn them off and right back on, same as pushing the button.

On my Pyle rack mount power strip, switches 3 through 8 each control one PH180 brick. Simply switching them on and off, in the event of a short, does the trick.  Switch 1 controls the Legacy system, switch 2 controls the ZW-L, and switch 9 controls the Legacy expansion remote.

Now, controlling each of THOSE switches with a remote would be cool !

Dennis, your benchwork is really well done!  Thank you for all the photographs.

@dennish posted:

Now, controlling each of THOSE switches with a remote would be cool !

No problem, this is what I use.  One kills the whole layout, the other four individually control the PH180 bricks.

DEWENWILS Remote Control Outlet,15A/1875W (2 Remotes + 5 Outlets Set)

I actually bought more remotes for these so I could have scattered around within easy reach all around the layout.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

No problem, this is what I use.  One kills the whole layout, the other four individually control the PH180 bricks.

DEWENWILS Remote Control Outlet,15A/1875W (2 Remotes + 5 Outlets Set)

I actually bought more remotes for these so I could have scattered around within easy reach all around the layout.

I can vouch for these.  After I saw John post these the first time I bought them and they are fantastic.  For my AV system I have two devices behind my AV cabinets amidst a maze of wires.  One click and they are powered on instead of reaching behind to flip an on-off cube tap.

Thanks John,

John

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

When you turn off the power to the PH180 brick, that resets the breaker.  When you turn it back on, if the short is cleared, all is well.  To reset them I just turn them off and right back on, same as pushing the button.

So, if you have a short, once the short is resolved,  there is no need to press in the circuit breaker as mentioned on page 10 of the instruction manual just turn off and turn on the power.  Nice feature.

Too bad that will not work with the ZW-L.  Once you have a dead short and the circuit breaker is activated you need to turn off the power resolve the short press in the circuit breaker and then turn the power back on.

Well, I can't help with the ZW-L, I don't own one.  However, the ZW-L should normally not trip the thermal breaker, doesn't it have fold-back current limiting?

Your Lionel ZW-L is equipped with three levels of overload protection: dynamic power limiting, foldback
current limit, and circuit breakers. Each output has its own fold-back current limit and circuit
breaker. The dynamic power limiting is applied across all four outputs. This provides multi-layer protection
for your trains and transformer while supplying the maximum power possible for pulling lighted cars or
fighting over grades with heavy loads.

And their take on the actual physical circuit breakers, seems they assume the electronic current limiting will deal with most overloads.

The circuit breakers on the ZW-L Transformer are designed as a fail-safe for the electronic over-current
protection. Because most problems will be protected by and corrected during fold-back mode operation
(described in the previous section), circuit breakers should be tripped infrequently.

Seems like a power cycle would cure 90% of the ZW-L overload issues as well.

A look at the wiring!  The ABSOLUTE BEST piece of advice I have gotten on the forum is to run as many wires as possible BEFORE the deck is put on!  Much easier access!

I decide to remove the grounding bars and use the remaining spots on the barrier strip for grounding.  There is a picture of a completed "feeder station" below.  There are a total of 18 of those for the layout.

The before and after photos of a "feeder drop station".

Dennis, your moving right along! You are right about the wiring, but I have to redo some of mine so I had to build a wiring chair for under the layout! LOL

dennish, you obviously have an excellent, detailed plan and your execution is first rate. Well done! One of my goals is to wire everything before laying the plywood surface as you have.

I can get under things and crawl around but I have to stretch for 30 minutes first. (I have to stretch to get out of bed.) It would be nice if one of the writers here on OGR came up with some kind of physical warm up program for model railroaders.

Smart to do it before the deck goes on.  That was my plan, but it didn't work out in the end, and I was under doing the wiring.

I agree: Wiring before the deck goes on is the way to go! I did that with the both levels of my new layout. Unfortunately, I've changed the wiring plan significantly for the upper lever. It is no fun making those connections with the frames in position and the decks installed! Contortion City!

Hmmm... I may have just renamed the town!

Chris

LVHR

Some track laying pictures:

I made a couple of jigs to keep the straight runs "straight-ish".  I have 2 runs of about 20 feet each that are essentially straight, so I figured it was worth the investment in time to make these.  The holes in the jig are for drilling holes in the deck for wire drops.  Because I am laying track on short-napped carpet (a sin for some people on the forum ), I heat up the drill bit with a torch and drill the holes through the template and I get no puling of fiber in the carpet.  Works like a charm!  We have run trains on carpet for our club for years and never once have I ever had to pull carpet fibers out of a locomotive.  I see it as instant ballast.  It looks great against green carpet for grass or brown carpet for "summer grass".

Dennis

Dennis, that's a great idea! I made one just to go from one track to the other. Guess what happened, Where the first track wiggled out of line the second one fallowed it! LOL I hope you wont mind me barrowing that idea! The track work is looking great just like the rest of your build!

You are doing a 1st class job, Dennis.  I'm guessing this isn't your first layout build and you must have a background that includes wire/cable management of some sort   The movable transformer shelf is great too!

Do you have a track plan you can share?

Thanks to all for the kind words and encouragement!  As a high school mathematics teacher, I always tell my students to plan your work and work your plan!  I try to model that motto in what I do, as well.  I generally build things 100 times in my head before I actually start the physical labor.  It is one way to occupy my mind when my wife does not go with me on afternoon walks with the dog !

The track plan is simple - 5 concentric, around-the-room loops on a 13' by 32' layout.  The scenery will consist of Lemax/Department 56 buildings and figures, for the most part.  I've done the detailed, high-rail scenery on my previous layout and it gets to be overwhelming, so much so that I felt I would never get done!  This way, my wife, who likes to help decorate the layout at club events can help on the home layout, too.  She has no interest in the high-rail scenery either !

The outer loop is O120, followed by a mix of O120 and O96 for loop 4, a mix of O96 and O81 for loop 3,  O81 and O72 for loop 2, and O72 for loop 1.  Should be able to run the Lionel Big Boy and Challenger at the same time on the outer 2 loops!  I had to move the outer loop because of a clearance issue, but at least I caught it now!

Loops 1 and 2 will be controlled by a ZW-L, and loops 3, 4, and 5 are command only, controlled by two PH180's each.

The cable management - I am just fussy !

Dennis

Looks great, Dennis!  We can tell your layout build is well thought out.