Numbered Ross Switches with big premier steam

A regular (a fudged #5) is effectively a 50" radius that diverges at a 11.25 degree angle. That, or any number above it, will be fine (greater number, the shallower the diverging angle, and larger the "Radius"). The "numbered" switches diverge on a tangent, not a curve, so the "S" curve is greatly minimized.  

The RCS regular switch has a short section that is approximately O-100.  So it should go well with your O-96 curves.  It is close to a #5 switch, but a little larger so they call it a “regular” switch.

I have a few #4s in the yard, but #6s on the mainline.  They just look better.

Also, be careful with their #6 curved switch.  It is advertised as O-96/O-72 but the O-72 is actually tighter.  I have two engines that require O-72 that will not go though it because wheels hit the frame.  Other engines need to go through slow.  I only have a few negatives with RCS products, but I have several #6 curved switches and this “flaw” impacts how I want to run operations.

@Jeff_the_Coaster_Guy posted:

Does big steam run through normal numbered Ross Switches all the way down to the 100 size? (Or I guess the 'regular') or do I need to go to the 200 sizes? Since they're not curves, I'm not sure if they are equal to a 72 or 84 or whatever. I know I can get the actual curved turnouts, but they're going to be back to back and trying to avoid the S-curve.

Well, the 200 size are actually a sharper angle than the 100 switches.

100 series switches are 11 degree switches, 200 switches are 14 degree switches.

I have both on my layout, and all my articulated stuff does just fine with them.   I also have some curved switches, O72-O96, as well as a couple of plain O72 switches.  My big steam doesn't have an issue with any of them.

The only problems I've had are the double-slip switches, and I have a plan to replace those with a bunch of 201 switches as they'll fit into the scheme better than the 101 size.

@@Gunrunnerjohn,  Can you elaborate on your problems with the double slip switches? Would you have the same problems with the Atlas version of the double slip? Thanks, Pat B.

@lpb007 posted:

@@Gunrunnerjohn,  Can you elaborate on your problems with the double slip switches? Would you have the same problems with the Atlas version of the double slip? Thanks, Pat B.

I am looking forward to John's answer too.  Keep in mind the Ross double slip is basically #4s, while the Atlas is #5s.  If I could fit the longer Atlas DS in where I plan to have my Ross DS, I would.

I've had a multitude of issues with the double-slip switches.  A primary issue is probably either the loss of power going across or a wheel clipping a center rail powered piece and tripping the breaker.  I also get most of my derailments there.  I've put the relay switching on to fix the power loss, but then I have more problems with the shorts.  To make matters worse, there doesn't appear to be much of a pattern to the issues.  I can run for 20 minutes on the mainline, then suddenly I'll get a short on the DSS.  With the relay disconnected, forget about getting about 30% of my locomotives to make the freight yard branch!  I've added tape, removed tape, looked for loose rails, etc.  Now I'm done!

My opinion is there's just too much crammed into a small space for maximum reliability.  I have four #201 switches to replace the DSS switches, just haven't gotten to it yet.  Yes, they'll take more space, but since I have a number of them elsewhere on the layout and have no problems, I'll adjust to the issue just fine.  They'll actually improve my yard entry, when adding the yard I had some S-curves on the entry just because of where everything was when I added it.  My rework will remove that issue as well.

Here's what I have now.

Here's what I am changing to.

Thanks John.