P.S. 2 Engine stuck in neutral

You really need to be more specific. However, I have a few observations:

• You say "All of the sounds and lights seem to work ok and I am controlling it in conventional mode with the little MTH remote system ". Are you using the DCS Remote Commander receiver and "stick" remote or the much older conventional remote?
• If it works with the DCS Remote Commander remote (which operates the engine in DCS mode, not conventionally), the engine is most likely fine and the issue is with either your DCS hardware or the layout.
• If you're using the engine with the older conventional remote and it goes forward and reverse,whatever battery you're using at that time is OK.
• What exactly are you doing when you attempt to operate the engine using your DCS Remote, and exactly what happens when you do so? Be specific and leave nothing out.

Thanks for your reply Barry.

No, I am not using the DCS Remote Commander or DCS at all.  Trying to operate it in conventional mode on a floor layout with the Railking Wireless Infrared Remote Control System (I think 50-1012) and a Z-750 transformer that were packaged in some sets years ago.  It is a small basic "stick" remote system I have used often in the past.  Also using RealTrax which I just cleaned.  Another PS2 engine I have is presently working fine with this setup.

When I power up the problem PS2 engine (Railking Doodlebug) using the Throttle Control Rocker Switch, I do get the engine sounds and lights.  And the Whistle/Horn and Bell buttons do work for their respective sounds.   But when pressing the Direction button, it will not go into forward or reverse.  The lights blink but that is all.  It will not move and there is no change in sounds.  I tried pressing the Throttle Control Rocker Switch button until the lights were pretty bright but still no help.  I have tried charging the old Ni-Cad battery (let it set in neutral for about an hour with 12 volts on the track) and also put in a new Ray-O-Vac 9V alkaline battery (have some Ni-Cads on order) with no difference.  I have been able to cue the PSA sounds minus the appropriate engine movement.  And again, I have performed the reset of factory defaults (1 whistle, 5 bells) procedure as outlined in the manual and got the confirming two horn blasts.

This engine worked fine before it was stored away some years ago but will not move since I pulled it out of the box yesterday.

Thanks for any help Barry!

But when pressing the Direction button, it will not go into forward or reverse.  The lights blink but that is all.  It will not move and there is no change in sounds. 

Turn off the track voltage and listen for sounds to continue for 6-7 seconds. If they don't, the engine's battery or its charging circuit are most likely the issue.

I have tried charging the old Ni-Cad battery (let it set in neutral for about an hour with 12 volts on the track) and also put in a new Ray-O-Vac 9V alkaline battery (have some Ni-Cads on order) with no difference. 

If the original battery is white, just trash it. The white batteries are well past their ability to take a charge. Is the Ray-O-Vac battery brand new? If not, it's also suspect.

Yes, the sounds do continue through the normal engine shutdown sounds for 6 or 7 seconds whether I hit the Emergency Stop button or kill power to the transformer.

It did have the original white Ni-Cad battery and I threw it out when I put in the 9V alkaline battery which I purchased new yesterday.

One other thing I noticed and didn't mention before is that when I initially press the Direction button to start movement, the lights continually blink util I press the Direction button again (back to neutral).  So on alternating presses of the Direction button, the lights continue to blink until I press the Direction button again.  And at the end of the PSA sequence when the engine should start moving on its own, it does the same thing.  The lights start blinking until I press the Direction button.

I wonder if you don't have something binding in the drive mechanism, such as a thrown traction tire that's gotten caught up in the gears. The blinking lights could be a sign of a power issue caused by the binding.

Can you do  conventional reset with the horn bell button?  This is definitely PS-2 not Proto Sound One?G

I am not sure what you mean by a "conventional reset with the horn bell button"?  I have performed the procedure for resetting factory defaults (one whistle/five bells) as outlined in the operating instructions with no help.  Is that what you mean?

And yes, it is a PS-2 engine.

Is it possible the engine is still in PSA mode?   Maybe try going all the way  through  the PSA again?   . I doubt  it but we're running out of options? know anyone near by  with full DCS?

R. Hales posted:

I am not sure what you mean by a "conventional reset with the horn bell button"?  I have performed the procedure for resetting factory defaults (one whistle/five bells) as outlined in the operating instructions with no help.  Is that what you mean?

And yes, it is a PS-2 engine.

Yes, that is conventional reset. Did it take and give 2 confirming toots.  G

1.  I have made a cursory look at the gears and both trucks seem to have the same normal and small amount of play.  I don't think anything is binding but am not positive.

2. I can repeat the PSA routine (and have done so many times) but the engine just won't start moving at the end as it should.

3. If I can find a full DCS setup to try the engine on, what should I look for or do to try and correct the problem?

4. When performing the procedure for reset of factory defaults, I can get the confirming two horn blasts but not every time.  I have performed the procedure probably 3 or 4 times.

Even though I have tried two batteries, the original and a new alkaline, I still wonder if that is the problem.  Especially since the engine worked fine before I stored it away.

Thanks for your help guys!

If the sounds continue on for at least 6 or 7 seconds track power down I doubt it's a battery problem... You may have to  take the shell off and  check out the plug that goes to the motor.  It's the one near the front of the board and a little difficult to get at. Usually white & yellow.

A full dcs factory or feature reset  might be  worth trying (before shipping for repair). IMHO.

The darn thing should be moving....

I can repeat the PSA PFA routine (and have done so many times) but the engine just won't start moving at the end as it should.

The PFA sequence only starts the engine moving at its conclusion if the engine was moving when the PFA button was initially pressed.

You should disregard PFA entirely since it has absolutely nothing to do with your problem.

This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!

I checked the connector from the board to the two motors (white & yellow wires) and it looks to be on securely.  But I am not going to mess with it because of its tight location and my lack of ESD control.

Next step I guess is to try and get it on a DCS layout.

Thanks guys!