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I recently undertook an expansion project for my layout and decided to use foam board for the first time. I chose 1/2" thick R-3 Owens Corning from Home Depot. My idea was to paint it in camouflage color to more realistically represent the varying colors of a natural earth.  I dove in with not enough research, and quickly found out after my first coat of paint that I had left the thin film on the foam board.  That turned out to be a good thing , because I had used the Rustoleum oil based spray can paints instead of latex.  Realizing what I had done, I then decided to tear off the film and start over looking to use latex paint instead. No harm done to the board because of the protective film.

Next I was able to find at Menards a FOAM PRIMER (spray) by Rustoleum, which when used, allows you to follow up with the oil based spray paints I had originally intended to use.   But that foam primer is about $6 per can and the board really soaks it up.  I was doing one 4 x 8 sheet and one 2 x 8 sheet.  I only did one coat of the primer as I was too cheap to go back and buy 2 or 3 more cans. I made sure that I sprayed the edges well.  Then I followed up spraying my boards with three different tones of Rustoleum spray camouflage colors--a forest green, a brown, and a light beige/tan. All are FLAT colors.  I sprayed in somewhat random patterns.  Because the coverage of the primer had not been 100% and was only a single coat, there was some "blemishing" and slight eating of the foam where the enamel based paint got through.  Probably not more than about 1/16" inch.  This made some portions of the surface somewhat less than perfectly smooth, but then again, neither is the earth naturally smooth.  I actually now think that these blemishes ADD TO the realism of the resulting surface, an effect that I stumbled into by being less than a perfectionist!  I probably spent more in spray cans than many do when starting with a brush-on single color latex.  Today I am 24 hours after the last coat and I see no warping or additional eating of the foam, fingers crossed. Later, when I landscape the board, I can accent areas with preferred colors.  See attachment--this is about 1 square ft in size.

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  • IMG_3949: Camouflage paint with "blemishes" caused by enamel leakage into foam.
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Paint the foam with an earth brown latex paint using a wide, inexpensive, disposable brush. While the paint is still wet, sprinkle a mix of green and yellow (or other colors) fine turf (Woodland Scenics) in a random pattern over the paint, using more or less of one color to taste or geographic region. The paint will hold the turf in pace when it dries. For additional protection, you can spray the sheet with hairspray or a thinned out mix of scenic glue to hold the turf in place.

Done - easee-peesee.

I always peel off that thin protective covering layer, but don't throw it away. It makes for a great drop cloth when making a mess.

Camouflage is not really necessary when painting the ground. A simple solid earth tone is all you really need, just cover the pink. Variations in color are done with ground cover. I only ever use latex paint for scenery.

Earlier this year, I did a bluff along a section of my layout, using foam for the upper section.

IMG_8246

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IMG_8251

The brown section on the right was just to cover the pink. the other part was carved and painted to be the native rock. I was working from photos.

IMG_8284IMG_8291

The brown section was later covered with trees, so you don't really see it.

IMG_8355

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Richie C. posted:

Paint the foam with an earth brown latex paint using a wide, inexpensive, disposable brush. While the paint is still wet, sprinkle a mix of green and yellow (or other colors) fine turf (Woodland Scenics) in a random pattern over the paint, using more or less of one color to taste or geographic region. The paint will hold the turf in pace when it dries. For additional protection, you can spray the sheet with hairspray or a thinned out mix of scenic glue to hold the turf in place.

Done - easee-peesee.

Do you use flat latex ??o

MELGAR posted:

I construct terrain with extruded pink foam insulation and cover it with a layer of "Mold-a-Scene" plaster to create realistic contours (hills, river beds) prior to applying paint and other types of ground cover. I don't attempt to paint pink foam. Just my way of doing it...

MELGAR

Same. I just covered it with a thin coat of Hydrocal and continued from there

MELGAR posted:

I construct terrain with extruded pink foam insulation and cover it with a layer of "Mold-a-Scene" plaster to create realistic contours (hills, river beds) prior to applying paint and other types of ground cover. I don't attempt to paint pink foam. Just my way of doing it...

MELGAR

I also went with Melgar's procedure. I used a combination of plaster cloth and joint compound where needed.

Joe

Second photo below--I always removed the film and painted with earth-toned latex. I worked ground cover and highway roadbeds from there. Very old photo from February 2010. Just to the left of the mainline crossover a keen eye can see the blue foam in a narrow space left unpainted to show a marked siding centerline. 

Unfortunately, health issues soon stopped progress but trains did, and will, run even in 2020 (I hope).IMG_1576

a100_1304

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Big_Boy_4005 posted:

The brown section on the right was just to cover the pink. the other part was carved and painted to be the native rock. I was working from photos.

IMG_8284

Agreed.  I'll immediately paint pink foam with a flat latex, tannish-gray ground color (the color for my modeled area, yours may vary) just to get rid of that God-awful pink color.  I then lay roadbed and track to get trains running, after which I can take my own sweet time to come back at any later date and do the actual scenery work that I want to accomplish in a particular area. 

I used the pink insulation on my prior N Scale layout.  I used flat brown latex paint and it worked out well.  I am in the planning stage for a new O Scale layout.  I will use the pink foam again for scenery.  I am thinking about using 440 Homasote(good sound insulation) to cover the bench top.  Home Depot and Lowe's stores do not carry it.  I will have to drive to pick it up when I get to that stage. 

Cheap craft isle Apple Barrel water based acrylics and a 2" brush mostly.....inside with the heat on 😉  (large surfaces and rattle cans are a PITA, I'd want a pint/quart cup gun and compressor or brush/roller if over 4'sq.)

It's not like I throw water at it or scrub/ use cleaners. After a month it can handle a little wetness for a while anyhow.

Flat for dry earthy stuff and semi-gloss/gloss for damp/wet/oily looking .

I did do similar on wood though, using up all the "half cans" to create 2d ground cover before 3d cover went down. There were blues, violet, reds, greens, yellows, orange,,browns, white, grey, etc etc. ...just jumbled blotches of color 

....and it beat the heck out plain plywood 

dan 77 posted:

I used the pink insulation on my prior N Scale layout.  I used flat brown latex paint and it worked out well.  I am in the planning stage for a new O Scale layout.  I will use the pink foam again for scenery.  I am thinking about using 440 Homasote(good sound insulation) to cover the bench top.  Home Depot and Lowe's stores do not carry it.  I will have to drive to pick it up when I get to that stage. 

A friend just bought sound board from Lowes that looks like Homasote but is a lot less expensive. I don't know the name but ask for sound board. It is a gray color just like Homasote. I cut the board for Mark on my table saw and was surprised at how little dust it generated.

Joe Fauty posted:
dan 77 posted:

I used the pink insulation on my prior N Scale layout.  I used flat brown latex paint and it worked out well.  I am in the planning stage for a new O Scale layout.  I will use the pink foam again for scenery.  I am thinking about using 440 Homasote(good sound insulation) to cover the bench top.  Home Depot and Lowe's stores do not carry it.  I will have to drive to pick it up when I get to that stage. 

A friend just bought sound board from Lowes that looks like Homasote but is a lot less expensive. I don't know the name but ask for sound board. It is a gray color just like Homasote. I cut the board for Mark on my table saw and was surprised at how little dust it generated.

Good to know.  Thanks.  I will check Lowe's and I will cut it on my table saw too.  Before I had a table saw, I used a box cutter with razor blade...PITA.

dan 77 posted:
Joe Fauty posted:
dan 77 posted:

I used the pink insulation on my prior N Scale layout.  I used flat brown latex paint and it worked out well.  I am in the planning stage for a new O Scale layout.  I will use the pink foam again for scenery.  I am thinking about using 440 Homasote(good sound insulation) to cover the bench top.  Home Depot and Lowe's stores do not carry it.  I will have to drive to pick it up when I get to that stage. 

A friend just bought sound board from Lowes that looks like Homasote but is a lot less expensive. I don't know the name but ask for sound board. It is a gray color just like Homasote. I cut the board for Mark on my table saw and was surprised at how little dust it generated.

Good to know.  Thanks.  I will check Lowe's and I will cut it on my table saw too.  Before I had a table saw, I used a box cutter with razor blade...PITA.

I should mention I have a dust collector attached to the table saw which helps a lot.

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