Planning New Layout (8'x15'10")

Hi SimRacin40,

How wide is the hole in the center?

That's a nice layout. The hole in the center doesn't have to stay a rectangle. If it were mine, I'd cut, add to the center, and to fill in and make the Atlas layout work.

Just my $0.02

Ok,

I converted to FasTrack. 084 & 072 with 072 turnouts and wyes. Let me know the size of the hole and I'll mode the sidings to fit.

This is done is SCARM, free track software.

Seems like a fun layout.

Check out what forum member SandJam used for sound abatement on this video. It works.

36 inches wide by 94" long. The two long sections are 30" wide, giving me a total of eight feet across.(30+36+30=96 inches/8 feet)

Here's what the hole looks like under the layout as designed. You can cut pieces to fill the areas under the track as N & W Gilly suggested or you can modify.

I would squeeze the top area and make a triangle filler to keep the bottom yard as is.

What do you want to see?  When it is how you like it, I can share the SCARM file with you. You can print the plans building and get an inventory list of the track needed.

You could build in stages, like outer loops, top yard and then bottom yard to manage the outlay. I used the basic remote turnouts, but you can get the new CC/Remotes. The size is the same. The track plan also includes all of the fitters need for the switches. As you can see, there is only one track joint that is off by about 1/8" or less at the top right.

Note: the 47.9" measurement that you see is only for the 3D effect of the hole. It's actually 48" from the left edge to the edge of the hole.

here it is with the mountain in the top left corner

A few tidbits I've found while doing my smaller 8x12 w/Fastrack:

- Tunnel portals are a pain if anywhere near a curve (as in within 10"). Engine and car overhang will get you, especially if you like scale equipment. Tunnel portals on a curve will get you even with O-27 engines unless the portals are wider than stock available.

- Parallel curved tracks need 6" center to center on even 0-72 curves if you like the long cars/engines.

- Had lots of problems when a curve goes directly into the "Y" of a switch. I always try to fit a straight there before you get to the switch. I had derails galore there with some engines before I did.

- Fastrack is LOUD, no matter what I've done. Since I've gone to almost all Legacy, I slow everything down quite a bit and it becomes quite reasonable. With my three loops running conventional at zippy speeds, conversation in general becomes tough and you start having to yell a bit to be heard. Makes it hard to hear your high dollar engine sounds too.

- Fastrack does run quite smoothly, and the switches have been very smooth and reliable. I run the CC switches, and it's cool to run it all from the Cab II remote.

- That said, switches are EVIL! (and I've got like 13 of them).

- If running a lot of conventional, check all your connections well. They tend to get weak after several feet unless well fitted (Lionel actually has videos on getting the connections right). You'll get lots of slowdowns otherwise farther away from power connections

- Bridges and other track enclosures need at least a 10" section of straight after a curve before entry. Again, overhang.

- same thing about overhang at the table edges or nearby buildings. Especially if right up against a wall. Need 3" from the center of track to the nearest obstacle on curves.

-  Electrically isolate your loops for conventional purposes and for troubleshooting. It's great to power down one while the others are running to swap out cars/whatnot or fix a problem

These were probably the biggest track issues I've run into.

the last one, and that is really getting to me, is the 8 foot width. its HARD to get to the center area and do any real detail work without getting up on the table itself. And then you take the risk of damaging all sorts of stuff. A hatch or two is great (now is the time to fit them) or as I'm seriously contemplating, going around the room, though I would hate to have a lift bridge.

my thoughts only,

.

I thought about having a tunnel but I doubt I will. As far as the back corner was concerned, I was going to add a sceniced hill behind where the tracks would curve, more of a "cut" than an actual tunnel. If the hill is made of foam it won't be heavy to lift up and I won't have to worry about reaching across the table to do any scenery work, just slide the hill over and put it in place! (Hopefully it'll be that easy when the time comes).

I have a Legacy system, I've thought about getting DCS since I do have some MTH locomotives but I don't know much about it. I've seen posts where people use it with Fastrack with no issues.  The nice thing about Fastrack is I can play with the designs and make sure clearances are okay before I decide to make anything permanent.

Thanks everyone for your advice / suggestions!

- Jeff

Hi Jeff,

Here is the around the hole mod. Just a small triangle filler needed for the lower yard.

Flattened out the upper sidings. Moved mountain, no tunnels.

Not sure if I missed it, but did Sandjam ever document the manufacturer and or where he purchased the sound deadening mat?

I noticed they have it in Lowe's, found in the hardwood flooring section.  My first impression was to double or triple it up to further reduce noise.  The main concern is that it has too much give when layered to produce even, level trackwork.   Without fully testing results at normal speeds, the video implies a noise reduction.  I have my doubts that there is any appreciable reduction in noise where it counts, considering it's Fastrack.

Bruce

Bruce,

you get quite a bit of sound attenuation. I use the 2mm product and get what specs list...a Delta of 21db. I use the free app Db 10th on a iPad. 89db without and 78db with it under the track. The noise now comes from hollow cars, passenger and box cars and such. A freight with flats and hoppers is really quiet.

I found that cork is very close in it's sound attenuation specs. So, it depends what's available at a reasonable price.

The stuff Sandjam used looked much thicker. I am sure it does the job.

Can you move the layout away from the long wall? 18-24 inches would give you really good access from that side and you could get away with a smaller hole in the center or an access hatch.

Each block is 1' X 1'.   12' 6" X 11' 6".  Blue line is the Room and closet at the bottom. 

Update:

 Yesterday I traded in another big batch of my N scale stuff and purchased some track along with a CSX SD70MAC. I'm still nowhere close to having all the track I need, but having a second main is nice. I need a few more straight sections to keep the mains parallel all the way around.

I have a couple of questions, one is track related, another is locomotive related.

1st - I ran a train around the outer (072) main as I usually do, and decided to run an engine on the inner main at the same time just to see if it would work. While both ran, I'm wondering if I should look into another feeder track or transformer (I have a transformer from a Lionel starter set I bought a few years back when I first thought about jumping to O scale). The engine on the inner main ran a lap but stopped on the switch. It started up again and had no issues but I don't want to keep doing something if it might damage the engine.

2nd - I have an SD80MAC from the Motor City Express set. I couldn't figure out how to get it working with Legacy when I got it, and I've tried several times since to fix the issue. The engine idles and it runs just fine in conventional, so it doesn't have any problems. I've tried resetting the engine but I don't believe I'm doing things right. I saw a solution on a site (The Train Doctor?) that mentioned Aux codes but it didn't work, I guess I'm not doing something right.   I also have an SD70ACe from Lionel (S&A Heritage unit) that's having issues right now as well, it ran on Legacy just fine but now it doesn't do anything at all. It doesn't have a light flashing or anything so I don't think there's a problem, but I've tried reloading the memory module to Legacy to get it to work and it didn't.

Can you identified the transformer model you are using.  My guess, being that it is from a starter set, is it's way too small to power what you have set up and what you're running.   It could be causing weak signal issues if your Legacy engine is only receiving minimum voltage.

By all means, add more power feeds.  It will help equally deliver whatever that little transformer can potentially output.  Judging from the layout size and track plan I'd suggest 2 feeds per loop, positioned at opposite ends, for a total of 4 leads.  Stranded 14 gauge wire if possible but 16 gauge will do. 

First on your want list should be a bigger transformer though.  Go for one as big as you can afford, with multiple variable controls. 

Bruce

Week 3 update:

Purchased two more switches and some more track yesterday. One of the switches is an O72 CC Fastrak switch, it doesn't seem to want to respond right away to the lever when I push up/pull down to change the routing, but after turning it manually (with the little light piece) it seems to be ok. I doublechecked my track connections and I can run two trains with no issue, though I'm probably pushing the little transformer to its limit. I've run up to three locomotives at one time so far, though that was just a one time thing.

Pics:

The blinking light issue I had with my CSX SD40-2 from the intermodal set it was with seems to be resolved, I can run the engine with no problems though the smoke unit may be down. I still cannot figure out how to get my CSX SD80MAC to work with Legacy. It idles with sound/lights when the transformer is on but I can't get it to respond to Legacy. It will run in conventional, but that's it so far.

Don't screw the switches and track down too tightly. You only want to snug it. Don't flex the bed or tighten like wood. That could be causing drag on the switch.

Check the switches on the engine, ensure that it is on run and odyssey on.

If smoke switch is on, be sure you have fluid in it. They are a little bit of a pain to fill. Blow down into the stack after a few drops.

Legacy default ID# for an engine is ID#1. Try engine 1 on the cab 2, then blow the horn and see if it starts up.

I haven't screwed any of the track down yet since I plan on adding more to the layout in the near future. I'll double check the SD40-2 and make sure it's got plenty of fluid when I run it.

Chances are the transformer you are using is underpowered for multiple engines. I don't know how limited your funds are, but you see things like the MTH Z1000 for pretty reasonable prices, and might be a good upgrade, or maybe one of the MRC packs for 3 rail might do the trick bought used. 

Haven't had much to post update wise. I've added a second spur to the "yard", still planning on four tracks total. I think I'll put the yard on the back side of the layout and use the front for something more "scenic".

As far as the front of the layout goes, I'm still trying to decide on what I want to do. I want a coaling tower, as strange as that sounds, there's still two over active main line railroads within an hour's drive of where I live, and I think it would make a nice feature.

CSX Q244-22, Irvington,KY 2/22/2013 by Jeff  Wagoner, on Flickr

CSX J765-29, Lebanon Junction,KY (2) 4/29/2015 by Jeff  Wagoner, on Flickr

I'm not trying to model a specific Kentucky town, but something where I can point to a prototype as an inspiration. I've got plenty of ideas to share.