Questions about building a ceiling/wall shelf 2 line layout using Fastrack?

O60 should be fine. Your power needs depend on the number of trains and type of motors you want to plan for, not the length of your track. If you have no problem running the same trains now, then the same power supply will do. For longer lengths of track, just add power drops every 8 to 10 feet. 

John,

Thank you for the reply and I’m glad you brought up the “adding power drops” every 8-10’...which brings up a question I forgot to ask. I was planning on running wire under the Fastrack for additional drops...can I add a crimp on connector every 8 feet and continue that way all the way around or do you come from both directions and meet in the middle farthest away from the transformer or doesn’t it matter? I’ve never run 140 feet of track to date. The largest I’ve had on the floor is the “Big Climb” layout which is one of Fastracks easy layout plans.

thank you,

Greg

Greg,

   I could have designed my over head ceiling layout for 2 sets of FasTrack, in fact I had 072 and 060 loops up to see what they looked like, and I decide to run just one loop of FasTrack.  It just looked better to me having one Tin Plate Train Show Piece, instead of multiple Trains running over head at the same time.  My Train Room has lots of Train Loops, so for me there was no need for dual over heads.  You may want them if you are just having the ceiling loops.

If you are planning Dual FasTrack loops, I would engineer with 12" finished shelving, it saves a lot of time and grief construction wise, and the Track fits real nicely.  Remember also to leave enough space (over head) to work on your track as you install it.  I planned mine tight because I wanted it that way.  I even purchased small tools, especially for building the over head ceiling layout.

Remember if you are using DCS build in blocks with no more than 10 -13 track joins per block, for best signal and running results.  Use as many 36" straight FasTrack sections as you can.   Once you get your shelving up you will see there is a small gap to run wiring along the back side of the shelving, up close to the wall, so no need to run the wires under most of the FasTrack, just the drop connectors.  Remember to build for both DCS and Legacy at the same time. I Used 14 Gauge High Quality Stranded Wire for both the DCS and Legacy because I had a couple nice size spools of it.

Further plan on custom building your corners, I planned for different size Triangles to accommodate my  072 FasTrack, it worked out perfectly.  Remember also most rooms do not have perfect 90 degree corners.

Good luck sir, if you need some advise just yell.

PCRR/Dave

The 072 FasTrack ceiling layout, my Tin Plate Trains Runs Smooth as Glass on it.

Greg, either method would work. What control system do you plan to use? On o shelf that high, I would just run the wires behind the trains against the wall.They won't be seen unless you are on a ladder.

John and Dave,

first thanks for your input.

I guess the wires wouldn’t show. I was just going to use 2 conventional transformers to control as none of my stuff is fancy like Legacy’s.  I have a 180 watt and a 80 watt. The Santa Fe passenger an anniversary set I got super cheap about 8 years ago. The Santa Fe Berkshire is a LionChief that I got on sale at Thanksgiving and hasn’t been opened yet and the Dash 8 Santa Fe is the 1999 limited edition set in the purple box I just got also new in the box just a few weeks ago on the “bay”. It will need a good lube job when I do open it. I got the set and a NIB dummy b unit for $200 delivered which I was excited about. I’ve been buying boxcars I like when they are new, cheap and sleepers nobody bids on... 

the anniversary set is the only thing I’ve run since back in the 1950’s when I was a kid with my 4x8 American Flyer layout. My wife allows me to set it up at Christmas every year in the family room and I usually get a month before it all goes back in the boxes and stacked in the closet which is about to burst with Lionel ....mostly track...switches...anything I find cheap and good condition.

these will be going in my metal building I’m putting up now. I’m only going to have the ceiling loop and thought it would be fun to have in my finished part of my building that will house a lot of stuff I don’t have room to display here at home. 

Thanks,

Greg

Greg,

   I would consider DCS for your ceiling shelf layout, using DCS you can run your Conventional Engines via Remote Control, smoother than you ever dreamed possible.

I would also invest in a Z4000 Transformer.

PCRR/Dave

Dave

Im hoping to find some sturdy 1/2” wood to keep the weight down. I’ll have a choice whether to attach to wall studs or to the floor joists with threaded rod above which will be for a 2 nd floor loft I’m having built. I’m spitting a 40x60x16 metal building into 20’ of 2 story and 40’ of open garage. I’d love to do a huge layout, but will be happy to have a couple sets running anytime I want around the ceiling. Thanks for the tips. Your set looks great. I watched a YouTube video where a young guy who really knows wood did a pretty cool job putting a set up for his kids. Mine won’t be that good...lol 

https://youtu.be/7rrM_B9tqvc

 Greg 

For conventional running, you can run one train with each transformer you have. I can't see spending over seven hundred dollars more to run conventional with command control. You will need to buy some track, anyway. I would use a block for each drop, just in case you want command later on. If  you think it might be DCS, the home run wiring might be better to do now. But, others have had success with switching over with a buss system, so you can find advice both ways. You have much to look forward to, so keep asking and we all will give you a slew of choices.

Just a thought here, but if you could elevate the back loop a few inches above the front loop you could see trains on both loops that way. I have seen a couple like this in pictures and they were really nice looking. After a little more thought I believe the elevated track could be made to allow a space for all your wiring and other incidental items as well. Depending on how you built it that is? I haven't given the construction any thought, but I'm thinking there should be something available to do this fairly easily. Fastrack O72 & O60 would allow 6" between tracks which should also be enough room for doing this I would think. 

Anyway, just a little food for thought here.

If you elevate your rear track as suggested above it aids your viewing and really helps the little folks see if any are involved.  

PS: the fuzzy appearance of the GP-9 trucks is due to a 3" high Plexiglas fence. Using a poor point and shoot camera plus the glare of a skylight above.

Thank you for everyone’s input. I appreciate the time you took to help me. I’ll post a couple of photos when I get it up and running.

Greg