Questions from a Newbie to Atlas O Track

As for powering the track it is your choice, I like to use rail joiner clips or terminal track for Gargraves track. I have heard that Atlas track is not that available and other then that I don't know about it.

Lee Fritz

Just want to add another note, I've been searching around the forum and seen that some are in need of Atlas O switches, mainly 0-72 and others. I've been ordering from The Western Depot, a dealer in CA, and they have several 0-72 and other sizes on their website.  Hope this can help someone out of a standstill situation!!!

NSPhil posted:

Morning Everyone! 

I've just decided to go with Atlas O track, but want to get some feedback on a few items:

1) Roadbed:  What type/brand offers the most flexibility?  I was considering Cork, Woodland Scenics Track-Bed, or Hobby Innovations Flex Bed. If you would recommend an entirely different product, please let me know.  Which is the most flexible?  Which has the best sound-deadening properties? What provides the most prototypical appearance once ballasted?

2) Track Screws/Nails:  What are your experiences with Atlas O's track screws?  Are they long enough to extend through the track, roadbed material, and provide a secure bond to plywood at the same time?  If you would recommend another product, what is it?

3) Power:  What type of power connection is best for use with DCS? (ex: rail joiner clips, saudering, or the 10" terminal track section?)  I was personally leaning towards the clips at this point.  It is a small DCS-only layout, powered by a Z-1000, sometimes using the wi-fi module.

I'm quite excited to make this switch as I'm coming from RealTrax but Run Premier line Locomotives and full-scale rolling stock. I love MTH, but I've been using Realtrax for 20 years and I'm ready for a change!

Thanks so much to everyone in advance!  I really want to ensure I'm using the best products and techniques.  I am completely open to hearing the good, the bad, and the ugly! (but based on the reputation & quality of Atlas O, I doubt there's very much "ugly" HaHa!

 

 

1.  I use Atlas track with cork roadbed.  I have tried the others and they were more difficult to work with.  

2.  The Atlas screws work just fine.

3.  For a small layout, the Atlas pre-wired rail joints work just fine.  The only drawback is that it is expensive.  For a larger layout, soldering is less expensive and works well.  I use both on my layout.  I have a 8 X 20 foot layout,  I run both MTH DCS and Lionel TMCC control systems.  

NH Joe

NS Phil; good choice on your type of track your using,its  alot more available than most people think.....

i agree on everything NH Joe said....on#3  i solder my own wires to the rail joiners,very easy to do and saving money too.-Jim

ATLAS track is now available with the exception of #5 & #7 turnouts which are expected to arrive at ATLAS any day.  I ordered many pieces in April 2015 and have received everything including the 072 turnouts, with the exception of the #5/7 turnouts. I've soldered wires to the rail joiners. Also I am using Hobby Innovations road bed.  My layout is currently being built, "SOUTH FORK RAILROAD".   I like the ATLAS track so far, it is quiet in a test run.  I think you would be pleased using ATLAS track.

Atlas track is pretty quiet on it's own, but IMO, Flexxbed will be the quietest road bed. It is also probably the most expensive. I don't know which would be the easiest to use? Eric's Trains has a how to video on using Flexxbed.

Atlas track screws are fine. I used them on my layout. Only trouble I had was when re-using them a couple of times, the head can strip out. If you drill a small pilot hole first (I did not do this) this might not be a problem.

See Ingeniero No 1's method of power connections in his build thread here: Track Power Connection He describes the drill bits, screws and wire used at the bottom of the post. He also has some good tips on using Atlas track and a very nice layout.  Good thread to read as well. I copied the track powering methods and they work great. I used OGR wire for power, #16 at the track as described in the post. I was very happy with the ease if connection and also ease of changing things around if you need to. It works very well with DCS and Legacy, I have had no problems at all with either system.

I really like Atlas track and switches. Both have worked well for me. Supplies of track and switches are once again available. I had most of my track before the shortage, but had to use several used switches as they became very hard to find new. The only switch problems I had were with these used switches. Atlas had parts for them and I was able to repair almost all of the used ones I purchased. Some were beyond repair. The repaired ones are working just fine. I would have purchased new switches had they been available. I would recommend new switches if at all possible.

Good Luck with your layout!

Our whole layout is Atlas solid nickel silver track. We also used Flexxbed, by Hobby Innovations, and ONLY used track screws for the initial installation of the track on curves. The Flexxbed was first glued down with TiteBond Professional wood glue, then the track was glued & screwed down on to the Flexxbed. After a few days, all the screws were removed, and reused to lay more track. After ballasting using diluted Matt Medium, the layout is nice and quiet.  

I use the Woodland Scenic Foam bed for my modules. as per former independent Hi-railer founder Steve Horvath and retired Atlas ee has stated, by using the Woodland Scenics foambed tacked down with Liquid nails [found in Big Box hardware stores all over] you can reuse the stuff should you have to take down your layout and move. Along with Atlas O track and ballast it is quiet. 

1 - I also use Woodland Scenics roadbed and find it ok. I have not tried the flex bed yet...heard it works great on curve sections but does cost more....Dennis Brennan has used HO cork and his results look great..I have not tried that yet either

2 - I have 1/2" plywood with 1/4" homosote on top of the plywood...the screws work fine...I am planning on adding 2" foam on top of the homosote and I have no idea on what screws to use there(most likely glue)...but you should be fine if you are screwing into homosote or plywood

3 - I have the Z4000...so I can offer much beyond that...I have no issues using MTH power supplies for my layout so far...as far as the rail joiners they work great..but u can easily connect your track to the power with a little but of soldering...I have done it with my MTH and Lionel track...very simple

Overall I love the Atlas O track system and have tried and used just about all of the others....Only exception here have been Ross custom switches..not there yet...Good luck with you layout

Thank You again to everyone for taking the time to respond. You've given me some great insight!

NSPhil posted:

1) Roadbed

2) Track Screws

3) Power (rail connection)

 

 

1 - I use Woodland Scenics Track Bed. I saw a demo where WS took a piece of Track-Bed and put it on plywood. They then hit the plywood and then the Track-Bed. I bought it and have laid it directly on plywood and wow, what a difference. You can buy WS foam glue or use foam compatible liquid nails.

2 - AtlasO track screws will secure the track. Get a #0 Phillips head for your drill.

3 - I solder wire directly to the rail joiners. Sand the bottom of the black rail joiners until they are shiny. I also sand the bottom of the silver rail joiners to remove any debris. Take a piece of extra AtlasO track and remove a few ties. Flip the track over and it holds the rail joiner in place while you solder. I've started to go an extra step and cover the solder joint with liquid electrical tape to help keep the solder joint secure.

Atlas track screw, black, 2nd from bottom in this picture.  You may want to pre-drill holes for these screws.  #2 screws, bottom, #4 screws, middle group.   #6 screws, top.  Midwest road bed was used.

A few pictures. 

The Atlas track screws suck. Too soft. They go in, but won't come out without the head stripping. Get these and a sharpie to color the heads black.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#92470a103/=1129rw0

Buy extra screws.

You will also need a half dozen #1  #0 tips as they don't last long. I have even tried hardened #1  #0 tips from WiHa and they wear easily.(edit: corrected tip size-checked my tool box and found that the WiHa tips were #0)

I have been able to remove Atlas Track screws, where the screw cross has twisted out.  You can grip the outside of the head with a pair of diagonal side cutters.   The problem is the screw is probably not a #1 Phillips.  I  slightly blunted the #1 Phillips tip to get a better fit.

A smaller diagonal side cutter works better. 

Again pre-drilling before installing these screws is a must. 

1) Roadbed: What type/brand offers the most flexibility? I was considering Cork, Woodland Scenics Track-Bed, or Hobby Innovations Flex Bed. If you would recommend an entirely different product, please let me know. Which is the most flexible? Which has the best sound-deadening properties? What provides the most prototypical appearance once ballasted?

I use the Woodland Scenics Track-Bed.  When laid on top of 1½" foam the trains run as quiet as a church mouse!  The slope profile for ballast is very good.  I buy the 24' roll and cut them into two foot strips to make it easier to handle.

2) Track Screws/Nails: What are your experiences with Atlas O's track screws? Are they long enough to extend through the track, roadbed material, and provide a secure bond to plywood at the same time? If you would recommend another product, what is it?

Forget using screws.  I use two-sided carpet tape to attach the roadbed to the foam and the track to the roadbed.  It's strong enough to hold carpet it'll be strong enough to hold a piece of track!  Also no worries about sound transfer between the screws and plywood.  I first used it about 14 years ago and it still is holding solid.  Plus, if you need to make changes you can pull it up.  Several times I've pulled it up to make changes and reused the same piece.  I just use about a 4" piece where the tracks join.  On a 40" straight track I'll use 3 or 4 pieces.

3) Power: What type of power connection is best for use with DCS? (ex: rail joiner clips, saudering, or the 10" terminal track section?) I was personally leaning towards the clips at this point. It is a small DCS-only layout, powered by a Z-1000, sometimes using the wi-fi module.

For my DCS, Legacy and TMCC powered layout connections to the track, I'm using 16 GA. wire. (For DCS, remember to use the Atlas O plastic rail joiners about every 10th center rail track joint to isolate the DCS signal in the block)  I secure it to the track by stripping about ¼" of insulation and twist it tightly.  In the middle of the block (between the plastic joiners) I drill holes next to the rails for the wires to come through.  Then I remove the rail joiners and slide the twisted wire into the joiner and slide it back onto the rail so that the wire is against the rail inside the joiner.  Once the adjoining track it attached, it locks the wire tightly in place.  It's a little tedious at first, but moves quickly once you do a few.  Again, I've had this method in place for years with no DCS or Legacy/TMCC problems.  

For connections to power, I have an around the walls layout and use the bus wiring method, where the power wires attached to the transformers circle the room under the layout near the front edge using 12 GA. wire.  I connect the feeder wires from the track to the bus wiring with Posi-Tap connectors.  You connect the Posi-Tap to the bus wire then you can insert up to four track feeder wires into it.  With the bus wiring near the layout edge, I can just sit in a chair and connect the wires.  And these connectors have worked great for all conventional or command control.  I order the connectors directly from the website.  They are available in some auto and big box stores but none had the variety or quantity you can get from the website.

And with both the feeder wires in the track joiners and the Posi-Tap connections, if you need to make any changes they are easy to remove and reuse!

There is not a drop of solder on my layout and the trains run great with these connections!

What ever method you choose, good luck and have fun with your railroad!

I hope for your sake that Atlas has finally got their turnout availability problem solved.  They really dragged their feet on this issue, and no matter what their excuse, I have a hard time believing any schedule they might post. 

Then there's the price.  I was OK paying outrageous amounts for a small 10 X 12' layout, but I'd be broke by now using Atlas on my current layout.  When a 3' section of Atlas costs twice that of a comparable GG piece it made me choose the later.

As mentioned elsewhere, if you plan on super elevating your curves, pick a roadbed that has little give.  WS foam will cause curves to "kink' at each sections end, as the tracks tendency is to lie flat.   Cork is the better bet in this circumstance.

I bypassed the Atlas screws because it was cheaper and more discreet using appropriate flat head Robertson screws.  I countersunk the ties on the Atlas just as I'm currently doing with GG.  Nothing looks as hokie as a super realistic track that shows off a uniform pattern of round head fasteners.  Removal altogether after ballasting should help keep noise to a minimum.

I soldered feeders directly to rails but didn't see the need to solder each joiner.

Gentlemen, A lot have said Atlas is readily available now, my question is from who? I like Wholesale Trains for product, but I'm finding they have a lot on B/O mainly switches, other track products are just marked available, which means to me that you can order it and wait for it to come in.  The train store I deal with here in Phoenix hasn't gotten and atlas shipment for awhile. If I want to use Real Trax by MTH no problem, I've only found 2 or 3 items on B/O. that aren't critical to the building of my layout.  I'm new to O scale, but not new to railroading. 

Thanks in advance

Check the larger sellers like Trainworld and Charles Ro.  I've found just about everything but #5 turnouts in stock.  Trainworld frequently has sales around every holiday.  Prices between dealers can vary by as much as 50%.

Jan

Thanks Jan, will check.

Atlas switches: problems with availability and limited selection if and when in stock.  IMO, nothing beats Ross. Made in America. Ross has great selection.  Made in THIS America.  Great service.  Made in the USA.

Atlas flex is a pain.  Curving MTH Scale Trax or GG makes the job much easier.  GG track 1/3 the price of Atlas.

Soldered wire to rail is fail safe.  Rail joiners can build up resistance over time down the road.

I do not like time bombs.

I spent some quality time at my dealer yesterday helping out with the rescheduled MTH Wifi day here in the north east.  Their store display is made entirely of Atlas track.  What I never noticed before is how quite the display is.  He has the track mounted on cork roadbed but the base it only plywood.  I believe this has to do with Atlas using solid rails.  

Personally, I've steered away from Atlas track because I have quite a few older Lionel engines with Magnatraction.  But the quality and sound has me rethinking that.  

My dealer started stocking Gargraves (he could always order it) because Atlas was hard to get.  However, I noticed yesterday that his Atlas inventory was quite good so maybe the availability issues are solved.

Tony

My LHS has gotten their Atlas track stock back up to pre-shortage levels, this includes most switches which were really hard to find for a while. As Jan said above, I think the #5's are still in short supply, but supposed to be available soon. The large dealers in the East should have plenty of it by now.

Noise level is a big reason I went with Atlas track. Very quiet. I also really liked the look of it. I am really sold on the solid nickel-silver rails. Sclaetrax is the only other solid nickel-silver 3 rail track that I know of and my LHS does not carry it.