Questions regarding tubular track switches

Consider Marx 1590 metal frog switches which have a low profile and small foot print verses Lionel switches.  They also less expensive and easy to find.  They also do not have power draining lights on the switches and the controllers.  In fact they can be operated with two small mini push button switches each.  They use no power unless they are being switches.

I am prejudice as I have 31 Marx 1590 on my 44 year old layout.

Check out Post 5 on topic below for description of the Marx 1590 switches.

https://ogrforum.com/...ra-027-layout?page=1

Picture of my new Wye and lots of my gray painted Marx 1590 switches

Charlie

@Choo Choo Charlie posted:

Consider Marx 1590 metal frog switches which have a low profile and small foot print verses Lionel switches.  They also less expensive and easy to find.  They also do not have power draining lights on the switches and the controllers.  In fact they can be operated with two small mini push button switches each.  They use no power unless they are being switches.

I am prejudice as I have 31 Marx 1590 on my 44 year old layout.

Check out Post 5 on topic below for description of the Marx 1590 switches.

https://ogrforum.com/...ra-027-layout?page=1

Picture of my new Wye and lots of my gray painted Marx 1590 switches

Charlie

Thanks for the response Charlie! Excellent write up in the mentioned thread you posted. Lots of switching action on your layout too, looks great!

There is just one problem with those switches (and any switches with a "fixed" side motor).  In the normal yard sequence of right-hand, left-hand, left-hand for a three track yard, you will have to use short pieces of straight track between each switch to avoid motor conflict with track and train.  That requires more space for a small yard.  On the other hand, switches like Ross or Atlas using only smaller hand throws (think Caboose Hobbies or something you custom build) will fit in a smaller amount of space.

Chuck

I faced a similar problem when I wanted to add a third track to my small yard. I have 027 tubular with 5122 switches. The switch footprint is big and I could only fit two inside a 027 loop.

I heavily modified three MTH scaletrax switches and was able to add the third track I wanted. Mine are powered since the yard is in the middle of my layout but I'm sure you could install hand throws on them. I've seen layouts with push/pull knobs on the fascia connected to piano wire to move the turnout too.

The rail height was very close between the tubular and MTH so I was able to simply solder them together to connect the tracks.

There were several topics on modifying 022 switches to compress yards. Search the forum and you should be able to find more info.

One other thing I had to deal with was power continuity for engines. With shorter straights between the switches, some locos lost power going over the straight sections. I had to add some center rail pieces to fill the gaps. Still not perfect but most of my locos can run through the yard without stalling.

Bob

Thanks for the responses Chuck and Bob! I’m still only in the research stages (obviously) so any advice helps. I’ve never modified track, yet alone a switch, so this shall be interesting. I’ll continue to do some more searches.

Well there’s a bunch of information out there. Not to sure how well I’d pull off redoing some of these switches. Trying to keep it fairly simple and price friendly too.
Thinking I’ll do an O22 right hand switch off of  the main line entering the side line where I’ll put an unknown type right hand switch to a separate factory. Further down the side line at the end I’ll have another unknown left hand switch that will run parallel creating 2 yard lines at the coal industry. Was attempting to have 3 but the space it getting tight. Trying to have room for my recently acquired plasticville turnpike toll booth.

With all that said, I’m thinking I might just go with all o22 switches since I won’t have as many. Maybe even considering the o42 switches to even cut down on the price more.

Here is a chicken scratch drawing of my idea.

Also really like the look of the Marx manual switches. The posts I think would look great with the coal industry.

What if you come off your main line with the RH 022 switch into a LH 022 switch.  The curved part of the LH 022 would follow the route you drew. From the straight track of the switch, go to a curve section of track parralling your drawing to the factory.  With extra pieces of track at the factory it may be easier to position other cars.

@Richizzle07 posted:

I’m looking at the switches and not sure what would be the best for a yard? The side piece that sticks out of the O22 switches just seems bulky for a yard, especially once you have 3 in a row. They don’t necessarily have to be automatic switches either since I have close access to the yard. Another note, the Lionel #1022 manual switches don’t seem to stick out nearly as far, and are more budget friendly for being in a yard with little use in my case.
Anyone with photos of yards using these would help. Also, suggestions are more than welcome, after all that’s why I’m here!

You can reduce the bulkiness in a tight yard with this (6-23010), and the RH version of it (6-23011):

Notice that they come with "filler" sections that, when added mimic the footprint of an O22, but when removed allow them to be fitted closer together than would be the case with O22's.

There are both proponents (no problems with them) and opponents (hard to fix if they break) of these on the forum.

They're probably worth a look though.

Mike

If you choose to go with O22 switches, I suggest that you replace the switch machine bulbs with LEDs, or remove them altogether.  Also, I prefer to power the switch machines independently rather than using track power.

The lanterns can be moved to either side of the switch, (23010 and 23011)

Lionel's modern era 6-23010 and 6-23011 switches with their "filler" section have given me a lot of options the traditional 022 switches lacked. Mine have been in service for many years with no issues.

On the 23010 and 23011 the switch lanterns can be taken off entirely, as the motors are in the base.  Attach a separate light hooked to the switch if you want to see its route.

Some great advice flowing here!

Dan, Great idea with extending the line to the factory, but I’m trying to squeeze some buildings in that section or possibly a lake. Things can change though!

Maller, great suggestion with the LEDs. I’ll have to look into doing that with my current O22.

To the many that suggested the 6-23010 and the 6-23011 switches, I’m hesitant after reading some mixed reviews. I will continue to research them though. Everything stated here though thus far has been positive and they seem to fit the bill. Question is how close together could I place these without operation issues? A half piece of track apart? Or full?

thanks everyone, we’re narrowing it down!

@Don Winslow posted:

Lionel's modern era 6-23010 and 6-23011 switches with their "filler" section have given me a lot of options the traditional 022 switches lacked. Mine have been in service for many years with no issues.

Very nice layout Don! Thanks for sharing!

Thank you Bob, but was the problem between the Lionel switches or the ones you modified?

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Thank you Bob, but was the problem between the Lionel switches or the ones you modified?

Jay- if you look closely at this pic, you will notice the corner of the top switch is almost touching the lower track. No way to get a third 5122 switch in there so I went to the MTH switches.

Thank you Bob