Repainting locomotive - how to remove windshield

It might (I repeat, MIGHT) melt off at the joints if you were to use PVC glue to loosen the joints. It might sound crazy, but it's a possibility.

Not sure how difficult a masking tape job would be.

There are also the liquid mask type products, Microscale makes one called Micro Mask.

Mask it off and keep going....

Ed,

I have done a ton of MP15s.  The sides should come out first then the front and rear will just fall out.  Sometimes it is easier to break them out and make new ones.

Dave

If only they didn't use Atomic Glue...silicone would be as permanent and a lot friendlier...but I do mostly steam anyway...

But - I have tried a liquid masking product, but found it to be troublesome, harder to fiddle with and less satisfying than: plain old masking tape, an X-acto knife, hobby tweezers, and patience. Sometimes it's still just model railroading: tedious and time-consuming.

It works; develop a technique; practice.

Sometimes I let the tape actually overlap the window frame a smidge; this can make the masking easier (a little less precision is required), then I touch up the window frame with a small brush after tape removal. It depends on which way is friendlier in a given situation.

Important: make sure that the inside of the body shell (if you are spraying) is also closed off from the overspray. No masking required - I just use wadded-up newspaper. But that spray paint can sneak around corners to the inside window surfaces.

Second option (I've done it more than once): just break out the original Atomic Glue windows in pieces and discard; paint the shell; cut clear plastic and install with CA, plastic cement or silicone. This can work, too. Case by case. 

Don't use CA

what do you use to strip the paint?

Try putting the body shell in the freezer for a couple of hours, then try to pry the glued parts off while the shell is still cold.  Many glues lose a lot of their strength when frozen.  I've done this successfully with locomotive shells and also for removing window glazing from built up structures like Walther's.

Ed, you don't specify what brand you are working on. Atlas, MTH and K-Line made MP-15 diesels. Given that some of your posts in the past have referenced traditional types of products, could this be a K-Line? If it is, the window is one piece, like a box, around all four sides of the cab with a solid roof.

Gently bang the cab part of the shell against something... the end of a cushioned chair or couch. Or a counter with a towel on it. Not real hard... don't want to damage the loco shell... using a cushion over the surface will help.

But keep banging it and you'll see the window insert piece start to drop to the point where either it will come lose on its own or you can insert a stick or screwdriver through the side cab windows (from one side window to the other) and help push it down.

This has worked for me.

Given the amount of repainting I've done, I wouldn't want to mask the window shell unless there was NO other option. A lot of work for potentially risky results. And for any shell that is part of something that is illuminated, I like to prime both the inside and outside with grey, especially if the finished color is a light one such as yellow.

Who wants to go through all the work of repainting and decals only to have a light glow through the shell. Of course, some of the newer products with LED's, this might not be as much an issue.

Thanks everyone for all the tips.

Bob - I stripped it with 90 or 91% (I forget the exact percentage) alcohol.  I submerged the shell in the alcohol and after 3 hours the paint was falling off.  I used an old tooth brush to brush off the rest of the paint.  It was extremely easier.

Note - I have been told by folks that sometimes alcohol won't do it.  They said brake fluid will usually do the trick.

Brian - masking the Windows is beyond the capability of my eyes and hands these days.  This is a new old stock K-Line and the windshield and Windows is all one piece.   While it is too late to try the banging method I have to do a 2nd one and I will try that.  I did prime the shell inside and out and painted the inside same as the outside.  

Bob - I will try the freezer trick on the other loco I need to do.  Hopefully my wife doesn't see it.  She has been preparing commitment papers on me for a long time.  A train in the freezer will definitely give her the final proof of my craziness.  This could be fun.

D500 - I think I will try leaving the masking tape overlap a little bit.  Sure would make it easier to remove.

Thanks again for everyone's help.  This is my first repaint attempt so I really appreciate all the advice.

Ed

I've used the freezer trick on CA, it usually works pretty well.