Seven year layout drought is over! - SCARM layout design for Bonus Room in new home!

Congrats for planning ahead.

My 2 cents, which is worth every penny...

30" is a long way to reach to a window.  Even if you don't expect to need to open/close it, you will still need to clean it, and it may eventually need to be repaired/replaced (even new houses have defects).

Rust problems with your FasTrack were likely environmental, which hopefully won't exist in the new space.  Not criticizing your choice of track, but switching brands/types is unlikely to prevent rust.

If the bridge across the opening is fixed in place, it will create access issues for less-mobile people, and it will probably be bumped by visitors.  Can you make it removable?

The switch in the upper-right corner appears to create an access issue, between the reach and having a tunnel in front of it.

Great you have the space, but I would suggest a pause right now.  Once you are in the space try to mock up this layout as best you can and check reach.  Can you get to the areas you need to for construction, maintenance, scenery, derailments etc.  Running 3+ trains is cool, consider noise levels and your ability to monitor all that action.  As others have said here before there is an article about planning where the author suggests you create a list of "givens" and "druthers".  If there was a Pulitzer prize for model railroad writing, this is the one.  I would also suggest you do what I did with many a memo I had to write, put it aside for a day and see if you are still of that mind the following day.  If you are bring it to a trusted colleague for further review before committing to a course of action.

Mallard4468 posted:

Congrats for planning ahead.

My 2 cents, which is worth every penny...

30" is a long way to reach to a window.  Even if you don't expect to need to open/close it, you will still need to clean it, and it may eventually need to be repaired/replaced (even new houses have defects).

Rust problems with your FasTrack were likely environmental, which hopefully won't exist in the new space.  Not criticizing your choice of track, but switching brands/types is unlikely to prevent rust.

If the bridge across the opening is fixed in place, it will create access issues for less-mobile people, and it will probably be bumped by visitors.  Can you make it removable?

The switch in the upper-right corner appears to create an access issue, between the reach and having a tunnel in front of it.

Good points, thank you for taking the time to respond!

My original plan used a 24" reach along the back section in front of the windows, and the center access space was 72" by 36".   I am concerned about access to the windows and that section will have another purpose as well.   I plan to store my IKEA stereo console (71"w x 16"d x 19"h ) under the layout.   I'll be test fitting as I build and will make modifications as needed.

To get trains running ASAP once the bench work is built, this track plan uses the track pieces I already have.  I fully expect it will change, maybe drastically once I start  actually using the space.

I modded my layout drawing to show "Removable Swing Down Section".   May start with removable and morph into swing down.

Yes that upper right switch could be a issue.  I did save a version without the two switches that make the right side an independent loop.  Gotta love SCARM for making it so easy.  

Thanks!

necrails posted:

Great you have the space, but I would suggest a pause right now.  Once you are in the space try to mock up this layout as best you can and check reach.  Can you get to the areas you need to for construction, maintenance, scenery, derailments etc.  Running 3+ trains is cool, consider noise levels and your ability to monitor all that action.  As others have said here before there is an article about planning where the author suggests you create a list of "givens" and "druthers".  If there was a Pulitzer prize for model railroad writing, this is the one.  I would also suggest you do what I did with many a memo I had to write, put it aside for a day and see if you are still of that mind the following day.  If you are bring it to a trusted colleague for further review before committing to a course of action.

Thanks so much for taking the time to read and reply!

Noise is a concern and I have read many of the threads on the forum about track systems, roadbed, and surface materials.  I expect to go through a period of trying out different options.  Will take time and money but hey - I'm retired now and it's all fun! 

Alan

Kelunaboy posted:

 

 

On the lower level left side, you have a wye, which combined with your oval, can also act as a reverse loop.  On the upper right side at the tunnel area, you have what LOOKS like a reverse loop wye, but in fact is not.  If you can work in an extra pair of switches (just to the left of the tunnels on the parallel trackage should be one real easy spot), you can have an opposing reverse loop, which would allow you to change directions of a train at will.  As it stands now, you would have to perform a backing maneuver at the reverse loop on the left side.

Otherwise, you have the makings of a pretty nice and interesting track plan. 

Because the upper loop is not connected to the main layout you could raise the elevated track to whatever height you want. 

Maybe consider eye level so you can have just a mild "duck you head" movement.

You could eliminate the aisle bridge altogether if you had a pair of matching elevated reverse loops just before the aisle.  Something like this:

Having just added an isolated eye level point to point R.O.W. with return balloons to my own layout,  there are times after a work session when I just like to watch my Triplex run, much like a mesmorizing fish tank.

LTom Tee posted:

Because the upper loop is not connected to the main layout you could raise the elevated track to whatever height you want. 

Maybe consider eye level so you can have just a mild "duck you head" movement.

You could eliminate the aisle bridge altogether if you had a pair of matching elevated reverse loops just before the aisle.  Something like this:

Having just added an isolated eye level point to point R.O.W. with return balloons to my own layout,  there are times after a work session when I just like to watch my Triplex run, much like a mesmorizing fish tank.

Thanks for the ideas, very nice track work!

What track and switches are those?

Looks like you built it off layout?

Rasing the height could be done, but as long as the house “feels” new I’m not going too attach anything to the walls.  With that in mind the track supports could get a bit tall.

I’m with you on watching trains run, sometimes with the lights off...

Alan

I used 1 1/2" dowels as column support.  A fun toy train approach using MTH Scale Tracks.

Below are photos of the wiring and the opposite loop;

This elevated feature was built to accommodate trolleys, RDCs and Galloping Geese. 

For my own layout I used a pair of these cookie cutter modules with spring operated Ross turnouts and GG track for an elevated eye level 70' length fun run.  I made a 4' X 8' LH and RH  balloon with half of the loop in a mountain:

For support you can use wooden hanger rod cups mounted on the bottom of the sub roadbed plywood and top of platform.  I drilled a hollow void through the center of the column for the wire feed.  You can see by the cup pattern where the elevated line ran:

Alan,

I have enjoyed following this string and I’m curious as to how it is developing/turned out.

My situation is similar to yours in that I’m retired but we have to demolish our garage (mold). In its place will be a new structure with a second floor which is ALL mine. Construction will begin in 2020.  I anticipate the space will be at least 22 x 24. So I’m doing my research.

Please let us know.

Thanks,

Jay

Aloha Jay! 

Sorry to hear about the mold, nasty stuff and you’re smart to do everything possible to eliminate it.

During my last visit I found the time to construct a “test” layout measuring 3’x10’.  I used the Linn Westcott L-Girder construction method, but due to time constraints, I used a solid plywood top.  I did take the extra time to paint all the bench work, going for Lionel blue, orange and cream colors.

My last layout required duck-under limbo moves and an access hatch, and I know that is not for me.   What I am testing here, is the 3’ deep tables used in my original posted plan.  Sorry to say that for me, 3’ is too much of a stretch to re-rail a train, and doing scenery or track work would be impossible.

Back to the drawing board for me, working on a new designs featuring around the wall larger radius curves, multiple levels, and a depth of 24” or less.   Most likely attached to the wall studs, once I get over my phobia of drilling holes in the walls of our new home.  

Also being rethought is the L-Girder method and use of clear lumber - too expensive and so hard to find straight pieces.  Looking at different construction methods using lightweight materials.  One concern I have when attaching to the house studs, is the transference noise and vibration to the next room.

My next visit to the house will be in September, but I don’t expect to work on the layout frame work.  I do plan on unpacking my DCS and Legacy electronics for testing.  Permanent move is scheduled for November 1st. 

Alan

Thanks for getting back to me Alan. You have a lot of work ahead of you in anticipation of November.

It was recommended to me to use foam insulation to help deaden the noise. I also read about using ceiling tiles underneath the track to deaden the sound.

For being able to reach across, I’m going to allow for two feet between the layout and the wall. In the long run it will be worth the loss of space.

Good luck,

Jay

On my new layout my base is Mianne benchwork.  On top I'm using birch multi-ply, Homasote, foam roadbed, and Gargraves rack and Ross switches.  The only quieter options might have been Atlas track, but I just couldn't swallow the price or the limited availability of Atlas.