I'm planning (for 15 years now) on building a shelf layout. (I don't otherwise have space.) When I finished the room years ago I'd run plenty of wires to 3 different locations so I could have a central control panel and a "star" power distribution in case I added DCS to my TMCC. The wires are just coming out of the drywall at present. I'd also put 2x6's horizontally between every stud before the drywall went up so I had solid support to screw shelf brackets to no matter where I wanted to place them. I plan on running 2 parallel tracks. I also have a large Bridge Solutions Truss Bridge that I'm going to span across a corner at a 45 degree angle to add some variety. I'm considering 13" deep shelving and I'd like to be able to stain it to match the rest of the cherry stained pine trim in the room. Any suggestions for thickness and wood type and how close the supports need to be to avoid bowing? Because I want to stain it, MDF really isn't a good option. Solid oak is likely cost prohibitive.
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Old and now dismantled[ 02/92 until 03/08] but some of the ideas you note. Moved from carpet in Den to wife's Kitchen/Breakfast Room at her suggestion. But I had to stain it to match the cabinets and bar area.
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Dewey,
How thick was your shelf? What sort of wood was it? How far apart were the supports? I've seen these photos in the past and they are part of the inspiration for what I want to do. I'm now looking for the specifics so I can figure out how to do it.
3/4' fir plywood with reinforced decorative supports at 32" o.c. except 16" o.c. in curves and at plywood joints. Dual shelves at 7'-6" and 9'-0"h. with 5 tracks in 14x32 space.
You can use furniature grade plywood, good one side, or A/C plywood. You can put a band on the edge to dress up the shelf, add rigidity, and cover the plies.
I had a free source for the oak and walnut I used for my shelving. The last photo is a template I made to make miniature turned posts as decorative supports around the outer edge of the shelving. Unfortunately, all my detailed photos of the project are in my old computer. One day I have to retrieve them and put them in this computer.
Very wise planning to put the cross ties between the studs. Good luck with the project.
Don
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If you intend to stain it, oak doesn't cost much more than clear pine, and it's a lot easier to get a nice finish on oak. You can also use oak veneer plywood and add edging to it.
Another alternative is to make "box" or "floating" shelves - they have no visible means of support, which means that there are no brackets to interfere with trains on the shelf below. Here's one example - http://www.familyhandyman.com/...ing-shelves/view-all.
Make friends with a woodworker who can point you in the right direction.
> On Apr 1, 2015, at 4:37 PM, O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
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