Hello All, I am working in a small space and setup a layout board of 35 x 66. This is the most I can do. I have been looking for layout examples that would work in a small space. I will be using two prewar trains and my goal is to keep everything prewar. The below layout allows me to grow and I will probably get to the third layout. My question is:
Can I isolate a train on the two spurs? Another words run one train and have the other not move?
Also
Any suggestions on a different layout.
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Follow this link for a little inspiration, although it's a wind-up layout, courtesy of forum member @Former Member:
My NEW & IMPROVED Windup Train Layout (4/9/20) | David from Dearborn
You can indeed switch off power to your proposed sidings so that the trains on them don't move when you use the throttle to move the train on the main loop. Here are a couple that are authentic Lionel, although there are thousands of different switches available that are not. Just pull the pin from the center rail going into the siding and connect the switch from the center rail on one side of the new gap in the rail to the center rail on the other side of it:
Lionel 6-5901
Lionel 600-5903-001
Mike
I would suggest that you research those switches and determine what the current rating is for both.
If you park a train and close the throttle, such that no electricity is being drawn, THEN open the isolation switch, you will have no problem. If the switch cannot handle the amperage of the train, and you open the switch while the train is running, the switch may fail immediately or eventually.
Arthur,
The OP's not going to find that info. As far as I can tell Lionel never published it for these kinds of devices, although they should have.
Since the OP's talking about a small layout (no long trains), and O27 locomotives (small), we can only assume that a train parked on one of the OP's small sidings would draw less than about 3 amps. Obviously with age, and if not maintained well, even a small train with lighted or operating cars could draw more than that.
Both of those switches should handle this, but maybe not?
if you're concerned let's get the OP to go with an Atlas HD Connector instead (at $33.95 ea.) and they'll get higher current handling (although Atlas doesn't specify precisely how much either; it just says "compatible with higher amperage AC/DC command control systems") and three together instead of one or two sold separately:
Mike
Why not just isolate the spurs with plastic "fiber" pins and put a on/off toggle switch in series with the power drop to each of the spurs? It'll cost a lot less than $34. For example, this 20 amp toggle switch ought to have a high enough current rating to do the trick.
Edit to add: I see, @Mellow Hudson Mike, that you suggested just that in your first post.
Thank you all.
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