Stub yard with wye entrance for passenger terminal

This layout design using O-72 track would fit in an area 13 feet by 15 feet.  My layout is designed for a small room or garage.

Even though the layout itself is very simplified I will be adding extensive signalling.  I have various MTH block signals and signal bridges which I will automate.

My train room is 28' x 14', and my layout is very similar to yours.  I have a double track main line with a center peninsular terminal/yard entered using a wye.  

One thing that I wish I had done when I first built it was to have a staging tracks under one of the long sides. They will be included in the rebuild.

Jan

My layout is built as an "around the room" design at an elevation of 60 inches off the floor which places everything at "eye level" for most observers.  I will also provide a "step up" for chlidren along the layout for easier viewing purposes.  

"Dust covered " staging tracks" will be built underneath for temporary storage of engines and cars. I will also add a heavy duty "dust filter" and vacuum attachment to keep dust off stored models.  Routine use of a vacuum will keep dust from settling.

For long term storage I place all models in their original box and packaging (or suitable replacement).  All my models also have a protective outer box which is clearly labelled for inventory purposes.

Note: Dusting off cars and engines after the fact is a real pain. It is much better to avoid the dust buildup in the first place.

Pro Hobby, I too am in the planning stages of a layout which I would love to have at 60 inches or so off the floor.  I too am planning a perimiter shelf layout.  Couple of questions:  How are you planning to attach the more narrow shelf to the outside walls?  Also (and maybe more interestingly), how will you support the peninsula?  Will it be supported from the floor with 60 inch legs or will you be suspending it from above?

I am building my layout in one side of a double car garage.  The supports will be 2/4s and 1x6s which will be assembled using large bolts, washers and wing nuts. The different sections will be constructed as modules and will be supported on legs.  For added stability I will use wire cables connected by turnbuckles between the legs. Since everything is bolted together it can be disassembled and moved easily or expanded if necessary.

Each module will have interconnected electrical wiring using custom prefabbed cables.  My control system is also built as modules.  Everything is "plug and play" so set up and tear down is foolproof.

Thanks for the detailed response.  I'm thinking of going the same route with bolt together modules should I decide to reconfigure or move.  In my last house, I did a more permanent structure with 2x3's glued and screwed together.  It would have survived a hurricane, but it took me two days to tear it down with a sawzall and none of it was useful.

I used thumb screws in addition to wing nuts for securing my modules together.  I also made a drilling template which I fastened to each corner of each module so my holes would be in the same place on every module.

Jan