Table Top Recommendation

There is some "pink" stuff out there which has the "Pink Panther" logo on it.  I seems to be btter than some of the older stuff on the market.

At 3' X 10' I would think that even using two inch thick pink board you would still have to mount it to a sturdy base. Something like maybe Luan board but at 10' long you would need to add extra because Luan board is mostly 8' long and that would give you a splice where it could be a weak spot.  Maybe just doing 8' might work better. Just my thoughts............Paul

EIS posted:

... the layout needs to be smaller and light weight.  I suspect that the final dimensions will be about 3' x 10'.  

All of my previous layouts have used plywood for the surface.  Is there a better alternative that will reduce the weight, and yet be durable ...

For a movable layout of that length it still needs some kind of rigid frame for durability. By the time you build a frame, the weight adds up. Two ideas for this:

* Build it so it hinges up against the wall when you want the floor space clear. Then you are lifting only half the weight when you swing it up, and stowage is easier.

* Build a long and narrow fixed layout high enough to clear the usual furniture. The grandkids can use stepstools for access to the layout.

Visit a store and check out the plastic folding tables, the small banquet type. I believe that they are very close to 3' x 5'. You can cover them and screw into them. Only a need a few transition tracks when assembled or disassembled at the joint.

This one at Lowes is 30" x 60" and weighs 33lbs.

I would build something using a frame and legs made of 1x4" #2 or better pine.....and then a table top of 1/2" Baltic Birch....which comes in 5'x5' sheets.  It is WAY lighter than regular 3/4 plywood.  You can stand on what I'm describing...if built right.

You may wind up building a table top frame, putting the 1/2" plywood on top of it....and then putting both on top of saw horses....that you'll have to secure.

Your biggest challenge is that something sturdy will have a certain amount of weight to it....assuming titanium and aluminum are out. 

Moonman posted:

Visit a store and check out the plastic folding tables, the small banquet type. I believe that they are very close to 3' x 5'. You can cover them and screw into them. Only a need a few transition tracks when assembled or disassembled at the joint.

This one at Lowes is 30" x 60" and weighs 33lbs.

These also come in 30" X 6' and 30" X 8'.   So you could buy two of the 8' long tables and make up a 5' X 8' layout.  

I once made a temporary slot car track using four of the 30" X 6' tables, combining them to make a 5' X 12' platform.   I used Gorilla Glue to mount wood blocks under the tables at the edges so that I could clamp them together to prevent them from slowly moving apart.   It worked out quite well.

I always intended to have a frame.  I would not use styrofoam without a frame.

I can't use the folding tables as the layout will still have wiring below the layout.

I considered hinging the layout to the wall, but dismissed the idea because if I folded the layout down, the layout height would be too high for my little grandchildren and if I folded the layout up, it would cover up a long window above the layout.

The layout will be totally designed for young children.  I have a lot of operating accessories and I want the children to be able to change them in and out without Grandpa's help.  So I intend to have electrical connectors, at strategic locations on the layout connected to two-position switches.  Some switches will be toggle and others will be momentary.  The mating connectors will be on each accessory.  So replacing an accessory will be as easy as unplugging one accessory and plugging in another accessory.  All spare accessories will be on a shelf near the layout so the grandchildren can pick-and-choose accessories.

The layout is still in the early planning stages and I welcome any suggestions for table construction and any ideas you might have to make the layout interesting for my grandchildren.

Earl

Not exactly the size you want, but at 5 X 9' a folding ping pong table may provide some answers, and they are often found on Craig's list.  The middle folds up while the sides fold down, and you roll it into a corner. Rich

Earl,

Why do believe that you cannot attach wiring to the bottom of the folding tables? The various adhesive backed wire/cable holders will do just fine. Gorilla tape or duct tape will hold the wiring also.

The blow molded edge can sustain holes for activation switches or screws for factory button devices.

Create a connection for a separate power and control unit. Many use rolling storage shelf/bin units. I can give you the source of a premade 8 conductor trailer cable that provides a quick disconnect point to the layout. Anderson Power Poles can do the same thing.

Cutting the Euro style terminal strips can provide an easy connection point for accessories that need power.

Don't dismiss the tables until you go and touch one, fold one, lift one. Then, go to the electrical aisle and check out all of the wiring attachment stuff.

Here's Flash's table build, forum member Eddie M uses them for a modular display that he travels with, ADCX Rob uses them, ahh here's a thread about them.

If you must build with wood, the style that I modified is taken from Lionel's LCCA modular specifications. They take a lot of time. 1" x 3" pine frame with a rabbeted edge on top for a piece of 1/2" plywood to sit into. 2" x 2" legs with pal nut and carriage bolt levelers. Attaching the legs to be removable is the bite. These are lightweight and sturdy. They just take a lot of time and require intermediate to advanced wood working skills and tools. ( see attached)

Heck, Steve Eastman ("Papa", forum name) uses the folding tables for his traveling tin plate display. They are sturdy, timesavers and easy to move. Steve has a build thread from last summer.

Well, that's my nickel's worth. Don't make it heavier and more difficult. It is 2016. New ways to skin this cat.

If you are interested in those plastic folding tables, check their weight. IMHO, they are not that light.

Earl,

The sturdiest and lightest would be a hollow core door, and they are available 36" wide, but normally only 80" long (high). I have used them before for portable work surfaces, and they are fine. 

Good luck!

Alex

Alex above makes a good point/great suggestion.  I can't think of anything sturdier that would be lighter.

At some point, I think there was an article or a piece in OGRR about building an O Scale layout constructed on a door.  (It may have been CTT....but I'm pretty sure it was OGRR.)

Here's a link to my Hollow Wood Door Layout, mine was only 30" wide, if I were going out and buying a door for the project I'd choose wider so I would have more room between the inside figure out and the outside, but it's good enough for fun.

https://ogrforum.com/t...hollow-wood-door-fun

Overall though I'm not certain I'd call it "light", it's certainly not crazy heavy, but it's kind of awkward to move around, but it's fun to get out and put random places in the house to goof off.  

EIS posted:

I always intended to have a frame.  I would not use styrofoam without a frame.

I can't use the folding tables as the layout will still have wiring below the layout.

I considered hinging the layout to the wall, but dismissed the idea because if I folded the layout down, the layout height would be too high for my little grandchildren and if I folded the layout up, it would cover up a long window above the layout.

Earl

 

Earl,

 I liked ACE's recommendation the best about hinging the layout to the wall. I understand what you are saying about if you folded it up you would block the window, but not the folding down part that it would be too high for them. Maybe if you could clarify that some more.

 My last layout was a 4x11 switching layout, out of plywood and 2x4's, which was built against a basement wall. I could have easily built it to hinge up (or down). 

 Good luck and post pictures if you can when you move along.

Tom 

If you desire to make your table consider the following. Not knowing the equipment you have access to or your source of supply it is difficult to make exact suggestions.   1/4" or 3/8" plywood on a light frame.  Frame edge size 1-1/4" x 1-1/4,  1-1/2"  x 1" or perhaps 1"x1" depending on material.  Where I live I can go to local lumber yd. and pick over 2x4's  selecting mostly clear and lighter weight  ones if I only need a few pieces.  This allows one to rip to needed size and not have pieces of smaller cross sections break at a knot.  We also have access to eastern white pine in several thicknesses.  Granted this is a more expensive option however the pine we have access to is mostly clear, lighter than most 2x4's and is strong enough to suit your needs.  It is easy to work and holds most fasteners well.  Once a frame is assembled install cross pieces the short way of the table every 24" to 30" on center.  Cut plywood to size and fasten to the frame.  If  you are running heavy engines then consider spacing the cross pieces 18" to 20"  apart if using 1/4" ply for the top.

I know I will get shot at for suggesting the thinner plywood, however once the top and frame are assembled the unit as a whole will work very well for you.   The unit a whole is much stronger and more rigid than you would suspect when just considering or looking at each piece by itself.   Wiring can be fastened to the underside with ease.  As far as supporting a person  a non issue.  On a table this small one should need to be on it.  As for children,  being allowed to use, operate or watch the layout, not crawling or walking on the table are just part of the rules.

MNCW posted:

EIS posted:

I always intended to have a frame.  I would not use styrofoam without a frame.

I can't use the folding tables as the layout will still have wiring below the layout.

I considered hinging the layout to the wall, but dismissed the idea because if I folded the layout down, the layout height would be too high for my little grandchildren and if I folded the layout up, it would cover up a long window above the layout.

Earl

 

Earl,

 I liked ACE's recommendation the best about hinging the layout to the wall. I understand what you are saying about if you folded it up you would block the window, but not the folding down part that it would be too high for them. Maybe if you could clarify that some more.

 My last layout was a 4x11 switching layout, out of plywood and 2x4's, which was built against a basement wall. I could have easily built it to hinge up (or down). 

 Good luck and post pictures if you can when you move along.

Tom 

Tom, thank you for your reply.

If my layout is 36" wide and I hinge the layout down, then the hinge joint has to be 36" high.  When I lift the layout up to use it, the tabletop will be 36" high, a little too high for the younguns.

Earl

4x8 is doable  just cut a foot off onside thats a 3x8 then take the 1x8 left cut two 1x3 prices from the 1x8 add them to the ends with proper frame work and you have a 3x10

Earl,

  Rich (MURNANE) also has a small table top layout that he posted a video on at the top of this thread.

https://ogrforum.com/t...45#63936244989894745

Maybe another option for you could be to have such a small layout stored  under a guest bed? When needed, you could slide it out and keep it on the floor/carpet for the young'uns to operate.

 Tom

I found some small cable clamps at Home Depot and I have used them for; TV cable, and electrical wire support. Just get some small screws and drill a small pilot hole so you don't warp the plastic if you use a plastic folding table.

Lee Fritz

I think a thin sheet of plywood with a thin sheet of Styrofoam on top for sound deadening might be the way to go.  Is Styrofoam paint-able?  If not, what would you recommend covering it with?

Additionally, there are grades of Styrofoam or Styrofoam like material.  Some are very crumbly and some are almost rubber-like.  What would you recommend?

Thanks...

Earl

I'm given to shelf layouts, when combined with a book case they integrate quite well into a small room while providing ample storage below with space for wiring and controls.

The foam to use is the pink stuff by Owens Corning it is commonly available in 2 or 4 inch thicknesses and is quite self supporting especially the 4 inch thickness. It is paintable with latex type water solvent house paints. Strong solvents like lacquer thinner, acetone, toluene or gasoline will dissolve it so common hydro-carbon solvent spray paint is out;;; but water based acrylic canned spray paint is compatible with this plastic as are the common wall paint previously mentioned.

Door openings are always a problem with shelf layouts, there isn't really a simple solution since most doors of bedrooms tend to be in corners of the room forcing the use of lift-outs or duck-unders or moveable bridging.

Bogie

Earl,

1. Styrofoam is not sound deadening.

2. Styrofoam can be painted with latex paint; other solvent-based paints will sort of 'melt' it.

Alex