Tack plan Feedback

2 suggestions. 

Would look to add an additional switch so that the train can exist the 4x8 loop.

Would also look to add a run around track on the loop in order to perform switching duties.

Hope this helps.

Ken,

Your track plan has similarities to one I posted a few years back. This should help you begin to visualize the overall picture. I will sit down with it shortly to incorporate your ideas and to fit it to your dimensions.

Link

I do need to know if there are any doorways and/or low windows, and where they are located.

Hi Stewart-

Thanks for the assistance! I do not have any low windows or doors. I am in an unused corner of the basement, so that makes life much easier!

Great work on the previous layouts BTW.

-Ken

 

Ken S posted:

...I am in an unused corner of the basement...

I am going to be tossing a lot of information and questions at you, so if you feel overwhelmed or have questions yourself, let me know.

Is the area of the basement you plan to build your layout open? Are there any support columns located in this area? Are there any runs of conduit or an electrical box we need to worry about access to? Are there any wall protrusions? Look at the picture below. On which side of the layout will the 11 ft. section be against the wall?

Unless it can be determined otherwise, I am going to assume you have an open area with no obstructions, and that the constraining walls are longer than the length of the sides of your layout. Building the around the room layout will put two sides of the layout against your walls. We will keep the widths of these sections to 2 1/2 ft. max for reach. The two sides of your layout that are not against the walls will have a width of 5 ft. max (this will allow a 2 1/2 ft. reach from either side of the layout.) In the example below, the layout is against the back wall with a wall to the left. The pink area is 2 ft. wide, the orange is your 4'x8' area, and the blue could be used as a double track bridge that serves as a gate into the layout. By being able to get to both sides of the 4'x8' section, you could expand the width to 16'.

If you are more into operating than watching your layout, you could turn the layout into a point to point in a G shape and/or add a second connected level. If you want to sit in the middle of your layout, and watch your trains run, this layout will be fine. There are many ways to get creative with the use of space.

It looks like you are using AtlasO track in SCARM. Is this the track system you intend to use? What is the minimum radius you require for your locomotives and rolling stock? Do you intend to run a single or double main line around the layout? Will the yard you are thinking about be used to store trains or will it be a working yard?

Once we get the dimensions of the baseboard set, figuring out a track plan will be easier.

OK, so first things first...I am attaching a picture of my basement corner. I went down with the measuring tape and the walls are 11'4"across the floor, the white is covered insulation. Longways, from the wall to the concrete seam in the foreground is 19', but the sump pump in the back corner takes up 3', therefore...16' long.

As far as operating style, I am more interested in operations than I am watching the trains run, but it would e a nice option to have if I'm just looking to zone, if you know what I mean. I'm not opposed to a second level, but it's not a big deal, and quite honestly, it intimidates me at least a little bit to think about building a second level at this early stage in my hobby experience. You are correct in that I am planning on using Atlas-O. I'm ok with a minimum curve of o-36 on my interior section, but would like to go bigger on the main line so as to not be as limited for engines. In a perfect world, I'd go o-72 on the mainline, but I do think o-54  would be the bare minimum in case I want to add some larger engines and rolling stock like an SD-70 or some of the premier rolling stock. I'm open to suggestions on single vs double mainline and I would like my yard to be working.

Thank you again for everything that you are doing!

-Ken

Ken,

Thank you for the picture! That helps to define the space to work in. I am going to pop back into SCARM and start to adjust the baseboard. Now that I know we are working around a sump pump, I can increase the area of the layout for you! By running a 40" Pratt Truss Bridge angled across the pump installed as a liftout section, we can access the wall with the window and get the full 19' opposite the 16' length. This will also allow you to access the window to open it.

I need some more measurements. Look at the picture below and fill in as accurate a measurement for each L#.

Based on a guestimate, here is a mockup of the basement.

Here is a track plan with O72 curves and a 40" liftout bridge in front of the sump pump. That should give you enough room to access the sump pump.

Hope this gives you some ideas!

You don't have any access to the interior unless you crawl under the table! I'm already on it!!!

SCARM file is attached.

Swapped yard to back side. You will either need to shorten the yard or get about 18" of added space. Added second 40" bridge to access the interior. The blue box represents the Menards power and light. You can move it around.

Ken S posted:

OK, so first things first...I am attaching a picture of my basement corner. I went down with the measuring tape and the walls are 11'4"across the floor, the white is covered insulation. Longways, from the wall to the concrete seam in the foreground is 19', but the sump pump in the back corner takes up 3', therefore...16' long.

Ken

Any chance of re-doing that white PVC pipe from the sump pump?  That might gain you some valuable room for that corner of the layout.

Once you enter the oval, you have to back out, probably needs a double crossover. You could add an O63 run for a dual main. The yard and oval would need to be reconfigured.

Stewart-

Wow! You have given me lots to work with! I can't thank you enough for this, and really quick too, the yard looks great. I might be able to steal some space from the pool table. That's why I capped it at 19', to give myself 5' clearance around for playing. Considering the cue would be above table height...I think it is doable!

Paul, I'm afraid my wife draws the line at messing with the home construction, she's patient, but that would be asking too much of her.

Dave- I see what you mean on the oval, I think a double crossover might be the trick.

Thanks for all the assistance guys!

-Ken

O72 outer, O63 inner, O72 yard and O36 oval. Just for ideas.

Ken S posted:

Paul, I'm afraid my wife draws the line at messing with the home construction, she's patient, but that would be asking too much of her.

-Ken

Tell your lovely wife that I said it's perfectly okay for you to do it.