Tinplate questions

I think it is normal due to the pre-war passenger cars only having one pickup roller.  Make sure the rollers and center rail are clean.  I just accept the flickering lights as part of the charm of tinplate!

Jeff Davis

Jeff:  I like your thinking.  Next time something of mine won't function properly, think I'll tell the wife, it's just the charm of maturity.  Thanks, Bob

As has been stated, the rollers have to be clean, as well as all of the rails of the track. The outer rails are part of the electrical circuit, as well as the chassis, trucks, wheels and axles of the cars. Since the cars were repainted, make sure the bulb sockets make good electrical contact with the metal chassis, and that the trucks make good electrical contact with the underside of the chassis also. Carefully scrape off any paint that may inhibit good electrical contact. Check to make sure the trucks, wheels and axles have no rust, and are clean. Use naphtha to remove any dirt and grease from rollers, wheels, and track.

Even with only one roller, the lights should not go out while the cars are standing still. This points to a fundamental continuity problem.

Buzzing may be an indication of an extremely bad connection. Check for anything that feels hot, like rollers, lamp socket where it attaches to chassis (not heat from bulb), part of chassis that trucks sit on, etc. Any hot spot indicates a bad electrical connection.

Lubrication of the loco is the same as any other loco. Motor armature bearings (both ends), gears, and axle bearings are the normal things to lubricate. Clean wheels and rollers with naphtha also.

Larry

Hi Bob,  I'am not sure it's been a long time but are there small springs on the pick up and inside the light socket?  If they are the original springs than you will need to change them.I think that should help. 

Bob, they should be very easy to work on. The rollers need to have good pressure on the center rail. Push the roller with your finger you should feel some resistance. If the roller springs are sound I would re-wire the cars…...

Okay, so it looks like the connections are bad at the sockets.   The trucks and pick up rollers, although they are somewhat caddy-wonkis, at least making contact with the center rail.  The bulbs are all good, but the final connection in the center of the fiber disc at the back of the sockets aren't making a good connection.  On one, I had to put in a small piece of aluminum foil to make the connection at all.  

So, now I am wondering if there are replacement parts for the 603 passenger cars.  I would probably opt for new light bulb sockets if they were available, and maybe new pick up roller assemblies if they are available also.  

Anyone ever seen a parts diagram for these?

I probably paid more than I should have for this set, given that the repaint is only mediocre at best.  The seller claimed the train was professionally restored, and went on and on about the condition.  As i said, I think I paid too much for what I got.  Now, I'd like to fix it.

Lights always seem to flicker for the first 5 to 10 minutes of running. Especially when the train sits for a couple of weeks. Then they start to work properly. Run the train for 15 minutes and see what happens.

Bob

If you go over to the thread on Centercabs, scratch-built or otherwise..I posted a list of Prewar AF and Lionel parts suppliers. They do sell these if I recall correctly.. I had to replace some..might come in handy for other uses as well. Hope this helps. If you cant find the thread , heres a link.

https://ogrforum.com/t...43#37611053572285643

Hope it works..Some guy on Ebay sells them too. If this doesnt work, send me a pm and Ill check my e-bay archive.

Often the point of contact between the bulb and socket center is solder against solder.  if either point looks flattened ( they should be dome shaped ) due to continual wear then momentary continuity loss can occur.  This happens because the spring loading in the socket slackens and the bulb becomes loose.  For a reliable connection refresh the socket center with new solder and replace the bulb.

Bruce

Here is the parts view for a similar car. The contact and lead, and light socket are available from Brasseur. The roller contact is available from the Train Tender.

Larry

Hey Bob, it really does't matter what you paid as long as YOU like the train. I expect that train will be under your tree with 4 lights a flickering and a partridge in a pear tree. Good luck with the repairs…….. LOL

Steve:  I ordered new sockets from Lionel.  If I can't get them to stop flickering, I think I'll replace the bulbs with bubble lights for under the tree.  

Bruce:  I ordered new sockets from Lionel.  The old ones, screw-type, are pretty shot.  The fiber centers don't fit well into the sockets, and the solder connections are not very good.  I figured new sockets, bayonet-type, with new bulbs would probably give me the best shot at getting it right.  If this doesn't work, I'll do new pick-ups next.  

Larry:  I am not able to print the parts diagram without a password.  Based upon the message, I assume that you got this diagram from a CD.  I went to Olsen's site, but couldn't do anything there either.  Any ideas?

Bob

A couple of things not brought up. What type of track are you running on? Anything other than tubular is going to cause the flickering. Next are the contact rollers. The fiberboard that holds the pick-up assm. over the years tends to warp upwards. Then the contact roller just barely touches the rail. Take a piece of track and hold it in your hand and put the car, or truck on the rail and take a close look to see how much pick-up spring compression there is. You can usually take a pair of needlenose pliers and bend the fiberboard down again for more downward pressure on the roller if needed.

Bob,

For the most part all I can say is, Welcome to the world of tinplate. One thing you can do is add another roller to each car. Most operators learn to ignore this little PITA operational, "dumb-dee-dee". If it continues to annoy you, place the set on a shelf to admire .

"Pappy"

Bob, here is the file that you can print out. Hope this helps.

Larry

Got it, thanks Larry.  Worked (printed) perfectly.