Tools: what do I need?

When I was in an apartment I had a circular saw, a drill and a jig-saw. (still do actually, but that's not the point).

Even if it's not "technically" the correct tool for all of these jobs, I had better confidence in the cleanliness and accuracy of my cuts using the jig-saw for the plywood, and also the 2x3 legs I used, as well as the 1.25x4 sides I had been using. 

I was building small modules (2' x 4' to maybe 2' x 7' max, most were 2' x 6') and they were not cross braced, just straight "4 legs and a table top") using the 1.25 x 4 around the perimeter (so screwed the edges of plywood down to it) and also as a cross-piece at the 4' mark so I had a place to anchor the seam where the plywood transitioned form one piece to another.  (I was not using a large single piece for each 2x6 table top, I used 1/4 of a 4x8 and then cut a 2'x2' to make up the difference).  All dimensions approximate.  I started with cuts at the home store too.  A 4x8 sheet cut into quarters.

Point is the jig saw (saber saw, reciprocating saw, take your pick of names - the hand held with the blade that oscillates up and down )worked well for these kinds of lumber.  If you use anything larger where it's got dimensions larger than the blade is long, that would be a problem.

As to one other item on the list, a second drill (cordless or otherwise) may be helpful so you can drill and use another one with a screwdriver bit.  It's a PITA to change the drill bit to the screwdriver bit every time you do a few holes.

A few small clamps to hold wood together while you are in the process of assembly could help too.

Re guides: a level or other straight edge clamped to the plywood can help.  If using the jig-saw and going slowly, it has almost no kick (when compared to the circular saw), so you don't necessarily need industrial strength clamps to create a "fence" as strong as one might have on an actual table saw.

You don't mention this, but even in an apartment, 2 saw horses are helpful for layout building, especially when cutting plywood.  Have to have it resting on something raised off of the floor while you do the cuts!

-Dave

I'll second the jig saw.  Also, you must have a good pair of wire strippers (you have a soldering station, so you probably have these, but worth the mention).  Clamps are also helpful in many applications.  For example, you can use clamps and straight edge as a guide for your circular saw.  Another would be hole saw bits for your drill to drill holes through your benchwork for wiring.

A few come immediately to mind (some mentioned above):

1. jigsaw

2. sanding drums (can be used in your drill)

3. portable light

4. wire strippers 

5. 2-4 foot level

6. key hole/circular bits for your drill

7. whatever the thing is called (forceps ?) that holds things when you squeeze the handles (opposite of pliers)

8. utilty and xacto knives

I don't like to scrimp on the quality of my tools because it eventually comes back to bite you, so my advice is to make sure you get the best quality tools you can afford. 

You have a lot of what you need already, I agree with others a jig saw is a great idea. I like the idea of having a second electric drill to use to drive screws, it is so much easier to have that option. If you decide to buy a new drill (18 or 24 volt), you could get a cordless skill saw from the same maker and they use the same batteries, so you can have batteries on charge while using the jig saw, when its battery runs out swap it (same with the drill(s), best option is they all be of the same brand with interchangeable batteries, if possible. 

A multimeter is going to be a huge one once you lay track and also might be trying  to figure out where a short is and so forth. 

For building the layout table, a level would be useful, if you don't routinely do this kind of work maybe borrow one from a friend, or buy a cheap one and then to free up space give it away to a friend with a house who does work. 

Thank you all the jig saw makes a lot of sense to me and I never thought about one before.  I did go to the hardware store yesterday and got a miter hand saw, very useful already. 

multimeter and levels are already in the tool box, other than the cordless drill I may stick with the corded saw.

Anyone out there ever use a saw guide/clamp? I saw this on amazon but I am not sure.

https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-KM...aps%2C178&sr=8-6

I have a table saw now, but I've used them in the past and they worked well for me. Depending on what you are cutting, you may want to put down a strip of blue painter's tape on the line you want to cut in order to minimize chipping and splintering. 

Peter....if you want a clean cut without chips or burrs...you simply incise a line (barely) with an sharp exacto/utility knife. Works well for my $$$cabinets that I've built...and other woodworking.  As for tools for your apartment....do you know that Dremel and other companies make "mini" versions of tablesaws...drills...jigsaw?  Best o luck with your project. Email me if you need help...

The power tool I probably use most often is my DeWalt Inertial Screwdriver.  This is a super-slick tool that you can use for screws, drilling, etc.  Yes, I have much larger cordless drills and impact drivers, but many times, this versatile tool is all that I need to bring.

As a flooring installer and RR benchwork fabricator who has used a variety of jig saws and blades for well over 40 years I can only recommend  to use a sharp or fresh 32 tooth sheet metal blade in a Bosch jig saw against a scored line with a straight edge for cutting plywood.  Let the blade do all the cutting, just gently move it along the cut.  Do not push it.  Do not use dull blades.

For the apartment or any living area use a vacuum hose with a H.E.P.A. filter in the Shop Vac for the saw dust.  Lots of squeeze clamps, two pairs of levels  ( a pair of 2'ers and 4'ers), adjustable leg levelers, Poly urethane adhesive and Titebond III glue along with an 18 gauge brad  gun, carpenter's square and Porter Cable 5" oscillating sander w/100 paper will round out basic tools.

Typical tools used for stick building a lift out valley between two ends of a layout:

Note the liberal use of 6" squeeze clamps, 36" bar clamps, shop vac with vac attachment to Bosch jig saw,  Titebond adhesive,  work surface fold up saw horses, please ignore an incorrectly used level.

Finished valley lift out with a 5 degree tapered fit:

I agree with Tom about the metal blade, it's amazing how good it works on wood!  He showed me that for my layout build, and I have since done a lot of cutting with the metal blade, nice smooth cuts with minimal dressing up after the fact.  I also have a metal blade in my band-saw, and it works really well for wood and the occasional metal piece.

Just an alternative thought. Is there any way you could build/pre- fabricate the sections at a friend/family members house then transport to your apartment? Nick