I went to buy some Tortoise switches at the York Train Show from TrainWorld. They told me that the 800-6000 was for HO. I was not aware that the green switch was only for HO. if so, what do you use on O gauge.
Quay Beck
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Its what we use in S gauge. The actuator rod included in the box is too thin and flexible. I use a heavier gauge spring steel rod to move the points in the larger gauges, the Tortoise stall motor is fine.
not sure what they are telling you. I have about 25 green tortoise switches. Never had a failure. The only change I made was to get a slightly thicker throw spring to use with my gargraves and Ross switches.
Marty
That’s the one I use. They have been on the layout for over 30 years. Not aware of a different model. I remember when I first installed them. It was recommended to use a heavier wire for the throw rod if using O scale. Most hobby shops carry piano wire. The last ones I installed I just used the rod that came with it. The spring action is a little softer. But they work fine.
The guy at TrainWorld needs to get a clue. The green Tortoise 899-6000 machines have been the gold standard for HO, S, O and even N-scale switches for decades. I have about 50 of them on my layout. I do use 0.031" steel wire instead of the lighter wire that they come with.
@Bob posted:The guy at TrainWorld needs to get a clue. The green Tortoise 899-6000 machines have been the gold standard for HO, S, O and even N-scale switches for decades. I have about 50 of them on my layout. I do use 0.031" steel wire instead of the lighter wire that they come with.
I fully agree with the above comments. For 27 years all my 30+“green” machines have been performing without a single failure. It is important to use the heavier steel wire with them. A hidden feature of the tortoise is that all my switches are inherently non-derailing without using any additional electronics!
The Tortoise switch motors can be used in any scale, for O scale use .031" diameter steel wire. I use .031" diameter K&S Metals steel music wire use hardened steel side cutters for cutting this wire.
@John Ochab posted:I use .031" diameter K&S Metals steel music wire use hardened steel side cutters for cutting this wire.
The only modification to the Tortoise is to use a #65 drill bit (.035") to widen the hole in its output arm to accommodate the larger diameter wire.
Tortoise are GOAT of switch machines. Slow-motion and they are bulletproof.
Have been using them for several years, no problems. Using Atlas switches and used the wire that came with them.
I agree with all the above comments. Tortoises are pretty bullet proof. They don't burn out like solenoid/coil machines. The motors are designed to stall, which is how they hold the points against the rail. Initial setup is more difficult since you are working under the table trying to center the Tortoise while drilling pilot holes and screwing them in. It helps to use double stick tape to temporarily hold them in place, while you are drilling and inserting screws.
Additionally, you can easily add red and green LEDs as panel indicator and/or dwarf lights in series with the Tortoise motor discussed here. I also covered it in my article on LED Dwarf Signals in OGR Magazine Run 302. All you need is a 9 or 12 volt AC wall wart plus 2 diodes, and then a pair of LEDs and a SPST switch for each turnout. 30 switch machines can be powered by a single 9 or 12 volt, 500 ma. wall plug adapter.
Bob
