Hello. I recently got back into the hobby and laid out a track plan using Gargraves track and Ross switches. Mostly, I'm good with the layout, although I'm sure the track laying could be better. With that said, I have a few track joints with either a slightly uneven top or a rough edge on a track end piece. Some of this is due to cutting the track. Is there any advice on smoothing out these rough track joints? Thanks in advance for any advice.
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You can smooth out the rough edges with a small hand file or Dremel.
You could also fill in the gap with some solder and them file smooth if it's really rough but, if it's that bad, it's probably time to go back to the drawing board and re-work the connection.
Thanks Richie. I was a bit concerned on using Dremel but a small, hobby style file would be good. Thanks.
Harbor Freight has this small set which is similar to the one I use, inexpensive, and seems to do the job.
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Looks perfect. Thanks for the info.
Gargraves track is usually pretty easy to deal with. I even filled a spot where the track actually wore through (we replaced all of it in that area with Atlas later).
Solder the joint together (use a little flux). File the top smooth, then file the flange side smooth. It should work great for quite a long time. If it wears out, just repeat the process until you can replace the track.
I'm with Matt, I soldered a bunch of the joints on my Gargraves/Ross track here, big difference. I'm going to do more, just have to make the time.
Sounds good. I replaced a few of the tracks with bigger gaps due to rookie made cuts. The angler attachment on the Dremel tool was worth the 20 bucks. The file option did great to smooth out the rough spots. I will try the solder option on a few areas where the gaps exist but aren’t as bad. I appreciate the replies.
I soldered them and then used a fine Cratex wheel to clean them up. Much quieter rolling over these joints.
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:... Catex wheel ...
catex wheels? abrasives? I am unfamiliar with this item
Sorry, missed an R, Cratex wheels.
Cratex Ruberized Small Wheels, these work well in Dremel Tools.
Years ago, someone gave me this Cratex 777 Kit, I had no idea how expensive they were at the time.
Noted on the Dremel tool. Appreciate the link as well. I will definitely give it a try.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Years ago, someone gave me this Cratex 777 Kit, I had no idea how expensive they were at the time.
Ah, yes. They appear to be somewhat similar composition to the sandflex block. I like it, but yes they are a lil' pricey.
@woodsyT posted:Ah, yes. They appear to be somewhat similar composition to the sandflex block. I like it, but yes they are a lil' pricey.
They are pricey, but they work better than anything else I've tried for stuff like this.
See!? It's discussions like this thread that make me LOVE this forum and have me coming back for more!
There isn't a day where I don't learn something!
I guess I'm a little confused.
After I put the track pin in the joint, I use a standard hand crimping tool to crimp the end of the rail on each side of the joint, and then I center the tool right over the joint itself, so half is on one side and half on the other, and really crimp hard with all of my strength. Any little flares, splits or other rail end irregularities are smashed down and round. I really never have very much unevenness or rough spots at all.
I would guess that in building my entire layout, I've only had unevenness in the joints in maybe only five places, and these I think were where a regular section of track joined into a Lionel 031 turnout rail.
I very quickly solved the unevenness by tapping the joint hard on the top and around the edges of the rail with a small brass gunsmith's hammer, and the uneveness was quickly peened flat and into round.
I have zero problems or derailments from uneven rail joints.
I guess I could have filed the joints down, but then you are making your rail ends thinner, and inviting splits and other problems in the future. Using a dremel tool is something I would not risk, because one or two seconds too long and you would sand through the metal rail end. Real track joints aren't as smooth as butter, so why are folks trying to make their model track joints smooth as butter?
Mannyrock
Hi Mannyrock,
You refer to a standard crimping tool? Is it possible to identify manufacture or show a picture. I really like this idea. I have several crimping tools but the dies fail to align well. I am just starting to lay 13-year-old Gargraves Flex and struggling a bit. Thank you for any effort.
Kevin
@Mannyrock posted:I guess I'm a little confused.
After I put the track pin in the joint, I use a standard hand crimping tool to crimp the end of the rail on each side of the joint, and then I center the tool right over the joint itself, so half is on one side and half on the other, and really crimp hard with all of my strength. Any little flares, splits or other rail end irregularities are smashed down and round. I really never have very much unevenness or rough spots at all.
I'm even more confused, are you talking about Gargraves/Ross track or Tubular track? I thought you used Tubular track?
FastMail,
I just bought the cheapest O-gauge track crimping tool I could find, with the "round hole" crimp for crimping track pins into the end of the rails.
I wish I had bought a better one.
I'm sure that many folks here can recommend a top of the line one for you.
Also, gunsmithing tools are extremely good for train work, very high quality and in great varieties. Every conceivable type of file, screw driver (flat ground so you don't damage the screw head), punch (brass and steel), hammer (brass and steel), fixture, headlamp, magnifier lenses, etc. They also sell stock flat or round pieces of solid brass or steal, and the tiny saws to cut them.
"Brownells" online is definitely the place to get them. Just search it on the web. They used to distribute a beautiful color catalog that was over 100 pages. Maybe you can order one.
Gunsmiths commonly work on guns that have a value of $5,000 and up, and they know they had better not leave a single scratch, ding or mar on the firearm or any of its screws or accessories, . . . . or they are in big trouble! Many gunsmiths actually have screw-making machines, to make any kind of screw in case one gets damaged in the removal process.
And, Brownells "Acra-Glass" is a miracle product. It comes in both liquid and gel.
Mannyrock
Holy Heck!
Once again,. . . Gunrunner is right, . . . and I am an idiot!
My track is tubular, so my comments are irrelevant. Except that, I would still try first to use a small brass or steel hammer and firmly tap the tops of the rails flat at the joint, instead of soldering or using a dremel. If this creates a small jutting flange or burr on the inside of the rail, then I would just file that off.
Apologies,
Mannyrock