Track recommendations?

My recommendation is Atlas O track with solid nickel-silver rails. Some people complain about the switches but I assume that an around-the-walls circuit near the ceiling will not have them. I have a layout with Atlas O track and switches that's been in operation for 24 years without any issues. I prefer Atlas O to any kind of tubular rail. Picture shows a stretch of Atlas O track on my 10'-by-5' layout.

MELGAR

No doubt Atlas will work fine, but if cost is a consideration, consider Gargraves, much cheaper and certainly suitable for this task.  My whole layout is Gargraves track and Ross switches.

having done a few of these, I would uses the atlas track (its the quietest) with cork or foam/rubberized road bed . secure it with an adhesive (No nails, No screws ) , this will eliminate the transfer of sound in the room

@Army Veteran posted:

Going to be setting up a wall layout near the ceiling in a 10x10 room. So I need 40 feet of track. I don’t currently have any track or transformers, so I’m not locked into any brand. Just looking for thoughts on what might be the most hassle free option since I will need to get on a ladder to access the track if I have issues. Thanks!

Sounds like a loop layout.  We have four on our room size layout.  Gargraves factory curves with their long straight pieces.  One drop for every second section. 'Tap' each piece into the one laid.  No problems in 20 years.   Plywood table, cork road bed.  Carpenters glue or liquid nails works fine.  John

Gargraves Phantom tin plate, blackened center rail, 3 foot sections, wood ties. The tin plate track is easy to solder the only issue is to scuff off the blackened rail side on the center rail to positive wire connection, I soldered connection to both outside neutral rails. I have both Gargraves and Ross Switches, all switches and the track are compatible no connection issues. 

Really comes down to your budget. Atlas nickel silver track won't corrode and is a better conductor, but in the kind of thing you are doing it doesn't matter. I agree with others, I would use roadbed or something like homasote or ceiling tile under the track, if you glue the roadbed to the shelf, then the track is on the roadbed, it will make it run quieter.  Almost any track in fact would work, from tinplate to whatever, it really depends on what you are looking for.

The cheapest definitely would be gargraves, you could do the whole thing with gargraves flex for example, or use sectional on the curves (Ross track is similar to gargraves, I used Ross sectional and switches on my layout). Given how little track you need you could probably use Atlas and it wouldn't be that much, really it is up to your budget and if you like the way it looks. In terms of reliability, if you are just doing a loop with no switches, then any track will be fine. If you are planning switches, I would go with Ross switches personally, but again likely any other type of brand would work out okay given what you are doing .

All the above recommendations are great. If you live near a decent train shop you should go and check them out including Lionel fastrack. All brands are normally stocked. Each has its pros and cons.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I live an hour from Mr. Muffin’s Trains.

I still prefer good old Lionel "O" Gauge tubular track.

@MELGAR posted:

My recommendation is Atlas O track with solid nickel-silver rails. Some people complain about the switches but I assume that an around-the-walls circuit near the ceiling will not have them. I have a layout with Atlas O track and switches that's been in operation for 24 years without any issues. I prefer Atlas O to any kind of tubular rail. Picture shows a stretch of Atlas O track on my 10'-by-5' layout.

MELGAR

used atlas on my 16x24 layout, no problems. Bought most of it new or used on ebay. I have been running it since 2016 and the only area I've had to clean is the incline due to the rubber tires slipping and leaving rubber on the track (need to shorten the lengths of the trains).

I thought Atlas track was difficult to find in sufficient quantities these days?

John

@jim sutter posted:

I still prefer good old Lionel "O" Gauge tubular track.

Jim, I’m a Gargraves Ross guy but I do miss my tubular layouts. There’s just something about that track that takes us back to the simpler days.

  On a different note as I am getting older and while I haven't had any falls, I have become more careful.   For my recent interior painting project I went to Lowes and picked up a small portable Werner scaffolding which gave a much wider and comfortable footing for taping the ceiling and installing high shelves.    It wasn't any more expensive than a decent step ladder, I wish I had done this years ago.   But after doing the first room I did return the small scaffolding and exchanged it for the taller version since the side risers made good hand rails the the top a work surface.  Just something to think about for your around the ceiling project.

-Mike in NC,

IMHO, any track system could be used here.  But this is how I would approach the situation.

The track will be very close to the ceiling so do ascetics matter? 

Does noise matter?

Cost?  Unless you are Jeff Bezos, of course it matters.

I run a combination of Atlas and Gargraves on my current layout for ascetics and noise factor.  If I were to build a near the ceiling layout, I wouldn't care about ascetics because you really can't see the track.  I would care about noise so FastTrack or MTH RealTrax would be near the bottom of my list for this application.  For cost Lionel Tubular is inexpensive and plentiful if you don't care about used track. 

My first choice would be Tubular mostly because ascetics don't matter, properly mounted it is not terribly noisy and it's inexpensive. 
Second would be a toss up depending on whether noise or cost matters more.  If cost matters, Gargraves.  If noise matters, Atlas.
At the bottom for this application would be FastTrack or RealTrax only because of noise.

My $.02

Tony V

Eric, I love your layout

Romiller, Ross makes the best switches you can buy. Gargraves works perfect with Ross switches.

Sounds like you have just a single loop around the ceiling  with no expansion plans ?  If the track is up by the ceiling, have you considered how the track is going to attach to the road bed ?  Maybe the track selection is more dependent on mounting rather than looks.  Will the track be visible ?

@Army Veteran posted:

Going to be setting up a wall layout near the ceiling in a 10x10 room. So I need 40 feet of track. I don’t currently have any track or transformers, so I’m not locked into any brand.Just looking for thoughts on what might be the most hassle free option since I will need to get on a ladder to access the track if I have issues. Thanks!

Each track system has its own pro's and con's and, when assembled correctly, can all be considered "hassle free". I believe the term "hassle free" has more to do with whether the track is assembled and wired correctly from the start than with a particular brand of trackage.

For ease and speed of assembly, I think Fastrack is the way to go. Yes, it may be louder than other track systems, but on a ceiling layout with no switches it should not be substantially louder, especially if you use a foam roadbed (available on the 'bay) and which I highly recommend you install.

I would build the layout on the floor first, spacing out and partially connecting five (5) power drops to the underside of the Fastrack, and then disassemble and transfer to your ceiling layout.

And my $0.02.  I have an 11X14 around the room double track that is continuously under construction.  All 72 inch curves with 72" crossovers in the long sides, a couple single ended sidings. I just used MTH track  mounted on white on one side, silver on the other Poly-Pro insulation board that has the property of being 'spongy' almost like foam rubber but a bit stiffer.  (Silver side down) MTH track held down with screws, don't screw them tight or it will transfer the sound, the old rule of thumb used to be tight enough to slip a piece of paper under the screw head.  I have a buss tie in every few feet, but with nothing more than spring contact for electrical connections between sections, I soldered the spring contacts together in the curves.  They can still be taken apart by just heating the joint and prying them apart.  I used the Bob Ross technique of happy little trees, and dabbed the roadbed with black, dark gray and white paint to make the ballast more realistic.   Only problem was MTH changed the color of the gray roadbed over the years, some light, some dark.

Fastrack is very noisy in comparison to the other brands mentioned, even in comparison to traditional Lionel O gauge.  So I would avoid it for that reason.  MTH track with plastic roadbed- same thing.

Ross is great and made in the USA.  But in a small room like yours, and to reduce derailments at ceiling height (!)  IMO the ideal diameter would be O36, and Ross doesn't make their switches in that size.  That leaves Atlas, which is made overseas and imported periodically in (relatively) small batches.  As Craftech alluded to, it's sometimes out of stock and then your project is on hold until the next shipment.

If you can find it, I would go with Atlas O36.  Or if you're willing to sacrifice the length of your straightaways and sidings, and you don't mind the track being pretty far from the corners of the room in the curves, Ross O42 curves and switches would be another option.  Choose your poison!

This is great information. I definitely don't want a derailment from nearly 7 feet from the floor. I don't see myself needing switches as it will be a single train on a single track.

The track will not be very visible since it will be between 6.5 and 7 feet above the floor, unless I have tall people visiting. 

Are power drops any easier depending on the track used?

It's your railroad and you have do to what makes you happy.  IMO, switches are where the fun is!  For all the effort involved, it might get boring quickly just watching a train go around.  Adding siding(s) on one or two walls will allow you to park one train and run another.  Stub sidings ("spurs") in the corners decorated with building flats would give your railroad a sense of purpose.  Besides, if you get quality track and switches now, you'll have a headstart if you ever want to build a permanent layout.  Just thinking aloud here and hoping you get the most entertainment value for your effort.

My current plan for the corners is to highlight my grandfather's military service. First corner, the Woodland Scenics  Army recruiting building. Second corner, D-Day with the Corgi D-Day diorama in 1:50. Third corner, Battle of the Bulge with Corgi tanks and soldiers 1:50. Final corner, return home with Lionel gate house with soldier saluting the train. 

I'm also looking for an Army train. I posted this in another forum for recommendations:

I've been looking for a RailKing 4-6-4 Commodore Hudson Steam Engine w/ Proto-Sound 3.0 U.S. Army with no luck. So I'm looking for suggestions on a good locomotive. I'm wanting to setup a Army train that goes around the wall near the ceiling. The train will be a tribute to my grandfather who served in the Army in Africa, landed on Omaha Beach during D-Day, and fought in the Battle of the Bulge.

I'm not locked into any brand as I have yet to purchase a transformer or track for this project. I have considered purchasing the Lionel WWII Troop Train on the used market, but thought I would inquire here for suggestions.

In that case any track will work. Atlas track probably has the best conductivity bc it is nickel silver. However, it is just as easy with any track to have multiple drops on the track, you prob could do 3 or 4 on what you plan. Key to me is making sure track connections are tight. Whatever you use I would use longer sections of track on the straight pieces, minimize joints that cause a lot of the issues ime. If you use long straight tracks, since this is elevated, you could even solder jumpers on the track joints ( since there will be much less joints to worry about longer sections), but that is likely overkill. You can always do that later if you find issues. 4 drops likely would be enough with any track w 40 linear feet roughly.  I think any track system would work here and given how little you need cost is not going to be that much of a factor ( would be like 12 36" sections + maybe a dozen curve pieces or so).

I wouldnt recommend fast track or real track bc of the noise factor. I would use roadbed glued to the shelf and attach the track to the roadbed ( if as I suspect you are using ballast, you can use clear silicon to glue the ties to the roadbed,). This would reduce noise bc track is isolated from the shelf wood.

@Army Veteran posted:

This is great information. I definitely don't want a derailment from nearly 7 feet from the floor. I don't see myself needing switches as it will be a single train on a single track.

The track will not be very visible since it will be between 6.5 and 7 feet above the floor, unless I have tall people visiting.

Are power drops any easier depending on the track used?

Fastrack has two male tabs underneath on most pieces that you can easily use to make your power drop connections by attaching your wires to these female .110 crimp connectors which slide onto the male tabs.

Fastrack also makes 30" long track pieces which are advantageous to use wherever you can use longer pieces, because they help eliminate conductivity issues.

I have a similar layout to the one you are planning. I use Fastrack and have had no issues besides a few power drops. Bus wiring fixed that right up. As for noise, I use a thin roll of foam under my roadbed, and it works great. Plus, it's dirt cheap ($10 for a 50-foot roll). I didn't glue the foam to my shelf; I just screwed the track down with the foam underneath.

I also have a similar one.  Two stacked loops at the ceiling with no switches.  Both Gargraves.  I had a floor layout (Fastrack).  I am finishing a table layout with Atlas.  I have experience with all 3.  The following is my opinion only and everyone has at least one.  Atlas is the best.  Then Gargraves.  Then Fastrack.  But each has its pros and cons.  Atlas is by far the best looking and the quietest.  But its the most expensive.  By what feels like 2-3x.  While Fastrack works fantastic and is easily reconfigurable, it is the noisiest, by what feels like 2-3x.  Fastrack works fantastic on the floor and allows never ending layout changes with ease.  With the built-in roadbed, it also looks great, albeit plastic.  However, since this is a ceiling layout that will not change, Gargraves would be my suggestion.  Yes, it looks really good with the wood ties and very realistic, and no one will see it.  Straight-up tubular would also work, and some folks (including myself) were literally giving it away.