Greetings, and hope someone can give me some ideas. I have a Premier Erie Triplex that has no chuff, puffing smoke or speed control. Easy, right? Here is what I have tried so far. Two new different tach boards, traced the three wires from the tach board to the circuit board, with the wires unplugged from the board. Continuity on all three. Unplugged both smoke units, no change. Took the PS2 3 volt board out of the loco and tested it on my test fixture. Chuffs and puffs smoke like any articulated circuit board should. I am out of ideas, any and all suggestions gratefully appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Fly wheel tape and gap. When you said you tested continuity, that was from tach solder joint to harness pin with tender connected to engine via tether correct? Wiggle tether while testing. G
Does the engine run? If not, check the set screw on the flywheel in addition to the tape and gap mentioned above.
Motor leads touching motor casing??
One simple test you can do is connect one lead of the meter to frame ground and then test every connection on the board. You should not find ground anywhere, if you do, chase it down.
David Minarik posted:Does the engine run? If not, check the set screw on the flywheel in addition to the tape and gap mentioned above.
Could be wrong but i think the flywheels are pressed on..no set screw.
George, the flywheel has painted stripes, do you think a replacement stripe would help? I guess it couldn't hurt, as the flywheel has a dull finish. Will give it a try when I feel like banging my head on the workbench again. Thanks for the advice. WilleeG, the flywheel is held in place with an Allen screw, looks like a 3 mm or so. It is tight and the flywheel doesn't slip.
Changing the stripes is very unlikely to change this symptom IMO. The MTH tach circuit is pretty tolerant of variations in reflectivity.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Changing the stripes is very unlikely to change this symptom IMO. The MTH tach circuit is pretty tolerant of variations in reflectivity.
Not true. The old paper stripe wheels were notorious for poor performance. Painted ones not so much, but if everything else checks out, that is the only thing left, and I have had issues like that before. G
Perhaps, but I'd think the symptom wouldn't suddenly appear unless the tape was damaged or dirty. In addition, he did say it was the painted flywheel.
gunrunnerjohn posted:Perhaps, but I'd think the symptom wouldn't suddenly appear unless the tape was damaged or dirty. In addition, he did say it was the painted flywheel.
After I recommended looking at it. It wasn't stated before. Either intermittent wiring issue, series of defective tach readers, or stripes, since board tested sat in bench tester. G
You are narrowing the field if the board is good. I've had bad tach readers, but I hope that three in a row would be pretty unlikely. Sure sounds like wiring...
Did you turn off the smoke, bad smoke fan motors can create havoc with a lot of stuff.
Feature reset. Factory reset. Reload sound file.
Gregg, I think I will put on a new tach tape, and have the sound file reloaded. I will investigate while snowed in on Sunday. How come locos that cause difficult problems always weigh about 30 lbs.?
John, I did unplug both smoke units, no change. Thanks for the advice about the tach board, I was wondering if there was a way to test them without swapping out the tach board on my test fixture.
Train Doctor posted:... I was wondering if there was a way to test them without swapping out the tach board on my test fixture.
If you are handy with a voltmeter you can confirm the voltages at the tach board. The sensor chip has 2 components, an Infrared LED that shoots the beam at the flywheel stripes and an Infrared phototransistor that detects the reflections (or lack of reflections). The voltage across the IR LED should be steady, the voltage across the phototransistor will go up and down. This may take 3 hands so to speak but is a way to test the tach board at the board itself. One of the MTH techs ought to have the numbers to look for but if not I will measure a board and post the results.
Separately, if you don't have a meter there is a kludgy way to determine if the two components are working. First you confirm the Infrared LED is putting out a beam by viewing the chip with a digital camera and confirming the purple-ish glow. If the you get that, then you can "stimulate" the phototransistor sensor by aiming a TV remote control at it. Most buttons on a remote send a repeating IR burst when held down. This stimulates the phototransistor as if the black and white stripes are alternating and eventually you'll hear a chuffing sound. It may take several seconds but eventually you'll hear the sound. The engine does not have to be moving or commanded to a non-zero speed; a PS2 steamer will generate the sound when it receives some number (depending on the engine gearing) of reflected pulses. A TV remote with the button held down is simply simulating the multiple reflected IR pulses.
Thank You Stan, and all for your help. Will give the voltmeter and the TV remote a try, but will do it when the wife is downstairs. If she sees me aiming a TV remote at a loco, she will think I am loco (more)! I appreciate all the suggestions, will let everyone know of any positive results. Again, thanks!
Gunrunner John, the triplex responded to a new tender harness, which was well designed by MTH, as it was basically unplug the old and install the new. The only thing I had to change was to take the smoke on/off switch out and replace with the new potentiometer. Works well now. Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas and good suggestions. I am glad I don't have to wrestle with this alligator again, it takes two foam cradles to stabilize the monster. Also did a PS3 upgrade with the stacker board in a five volt GG-1, it seems to have gone well, my friend Marv was able to download the soundset with no difficulty. Too bad it is a bicentennial scale GG1, pretty is not in it's vocabulary. Again, thanks to all for helpful suggestions.
Glad it turned out to be a simple fix.