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Greetings, and hope someone can give me some ideas. I have a Premier Erie Triplex that has no chuff, puffing smoke or speed control. Easy, right? Here is what I have tried so far. Two new different tach boards, traced the three wires from the tach board to the circuit board, with the wires unplugged from the board. Continuity on all three. Unplugged both smoke units, no change. Took the PS2 3 volt board out of the loco and tested it on my test fixture. Chuffs and puffs smoke like any articulated circuit board should. I am out of ideas, any and all suggestions gratefully appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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George, the flywheel has painted stripes, do you think a replacement stripe would help? I guess it couldn't hurt, as the flywheel has a dull finish. Will give it a try when I feel like banging my head on the workbench again. Thanks for the advice. WilleeG, the flywheel is held in place with an Allen screw, looks like a 3 mm or so. It is tight and the flywheel doesn't slip. 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Changing the stripes is very unlikely to change this symptom IMO.  The MTH tach circuit is pretty tolerant of variations in reflectivity.

Not true.  The old paper stripe wheels were notorious for poor performance.  Painted ones not so much, but if everything else checks out, that is the only thing left, and I have had issues like that before.  G

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Perhaps, but I'd think the symptom wouldn't suddenly appear unless the tape was damaged or dirty.  In addition, he did say it was the painted flywheel.

After I recommended looking at it.  It wasn't stated before.  Either intermittent wiring issue, series of defective tach readers, or stripes, since board tested sat in bench tester.  G

Train Doctor posted:

... I was wondering if there was a way to test them without swapping out the tach board on my test fixture.

If you are handy with a voltmeter you can confirm the voltages at the tach board.  The sensor chip has 2 components, an Infrared LED that shoots the beam at the flywheel stripes and an Infrared phototransistor that detects the reflections (or lack of reflections).  The voltage across the IR LED should be steady, the voltage across the phototransistor will go up and down.  This may take 3 hands so to speak but is a way to test the tach board at the board itself.  One of the MTH techs ought to have the numbers to look for but if not I will measure a board and post the results.

Separately, if you don't have a meter there is a kludgy way to determine if the two components are working.  First you confirm the Infrared LED is putting out a beam by viewing the chip with a digital camera and confirming the purple-ish glow.  If the you get that, then you can "stimulate" the phototransistor sensor by aiming a TV remote control at it.  Most buttons on a remote send a repeating IR burst when held down.  This stimulates the phototransistor as if the black and white stripes are alternating and eventually you'll hear a chuffing sound.  It may take several seconds but eventually you'll hear the sound.  The engine does not have to be moving or commanded to a non-zero speed; a PS2 steamer will generate the sound when it receives some number (depending on the engine gearing) of reflected pulses.  A TV remote with the button held down is simply simulating the multiple reflected IR pulses.

Gunrunner John, the triplex responded to a new tender harness, which was well designed by MTH, as it was basically unplug the old and install the new. The only thing I had to change was to take the smoke on/off switch out and replace with the new potentiometer. Works well now. Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas and good suggestions. I am glad I don't have to wrestle with this alligator again, it takes two foam cradles to stabilize the monster. Also did a PS3 upgrade with the stacker board in a five volt GG-1, it seems to have gone well, my friend Marv was able to download the soundset with no difficulty. Too bad it is a bicentennial scale GG1, pretty is not in it's vocabulary. Again, thanks to all for helpful suggestions.

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