My Current Layout - Tips, Tricks, Troubleshooting Help Appreciated

Deuce:

Think about connecting the inner loop to the outer loop and turning the inner loop siding around so it is a trailing siding like the rest. It will give you more operational enjoyment plus you can isolate it so you would be able to run conventional on one loop and command control on the other or command control / conventional on both. You would need two extra turnouts to do this.

Joe

Deuce,

Looks like a good start to a fun layout, some similarity to the one I'm working on, also 4'x8' overall. One of the issues I'm struggling with a bit is space for operating accessories, clearances between trains, buildings, and scenery. Temporarily building track, running trains, placing things, etc. is being a help to me with trying to figure out where stuff will ultimately go, and how much fun it will be to run.

I cannot see the parts #'s to determine which diameter curve you are using. O36 curves with a 5" in the center fit on a 48" wide table. Looks like your roughly 4 x 8 has expanded quite a bit.EDITk I see that it's 2 4.5" - so only a 4" growth - 52" will be expensive lumber - wise.

Whichever siding that you are using to park an engine, put a 1 3/8" track right after the divergence (turn-out) to accommodate a simple toggle switch to kill power to center (Hot) rail.

Set up the curved sections and put your largest engines and rolling stock on both curves and check for any overhangs, steps, steam engine cabs, etc., that may hit.

Also- if you change the direction of the short siding on the bottom and move the turnout one track to the right, you could make the siding longer and maybe even add a second. Don't know what you had planned for the empty space on that side of the table but it could be a nice freight yard with Opp acc.

The long siding that wraps around could become a passing siding with a second turnout at the end too.

Bob

Deuce,

What software are you using? The layout won't fit as you have it. The O31 switch is 11 1/4" inches. Not 10" as it was assumed originally when introduced before production.

here is your layout on a 4 x 8

Carl, I'm using Trax. The way I had it currently set up is O36 curve on the outer loop with a "straightaway" comprised of one 4.5" and two 1 3/8" straights. The siding is O31 curve with a straightaway of two 1 3/8" straights. And the innermost loop is just O27. Traxx gives me about an inch clearance at front and back ... which may not be enough. I thought I could screw a 2x4 on the back, level with the tabletop, to give me enough space for corner clearance of all my trains. 

As for the O31 switch, would a O36 switch fit in that space or are they the same dimensions?

Here is the most up-to-date layout. I figure the switch on the O27 could lead to a passenger platform (my Plasticville Union Station).

This is what I get with O36 switch. Had to shorten the siding straight a bit, but it fits. At least according to Trax.

   Have you spaced the curves enough for engine overhang? You need to test with your largest offenders. Check, don't assume  

  Diesel & car handrails, toolboxes, tanks (inside has overhang too), & steps, steamer cowcatchers, etc. And dont forget about up high because cab roofs kick out too (e.g. on a Birk jr, the cab kicks out more than the pilot.)    There is also the combo to consider. Long cars on the outside loop and a Birk on the inside and you may clip your cars with the Birk cab's roof while in curves.

I used a rough cut 2x4 with a sheet of 1/4" hardboard as a fast grab spacer when I lay track down (tube track). 

I believe, with the acquisition of one more O27 switch, this could wind up being my layout for the time being. For the two O27 sidings, I will turn power on/off so I can keep two trains on the track. Probably my Pennsy Beep Mini's and the Chuggington Brewster Diesel. The short siding (which I turned around on the outer track) will also have power on/off, which will more than likely house my LC Thomas the Train. I'm debating whether or not I should power on/off the longer siding, to house the Pennsy Flyer and it's long consist. I will have a long Sodor consist for the LC Thomas, and without any place to put it, I suppose I could store it in the longer siding, park the Pennsy Flyer along the outer loop, run Thomas up into the longer siding, grab the consist and then pull it out, opening it up for the Pennsy Flyer to park. Turning off power to that longer siding may not be a bad thing, just need to grab one more SPST switch (the rest of that track should have arrived today to complete that entire stretch).

Duece, 

One minor change to consider is to flip the sidings in middle to avoid the S curve wiggle (red line).  Those can be a source for derailments.  Also, I think it may give you a little longer space for longer sidings.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Thanks JD. Here we are.

A thought, we tend to plan with computer or paper and pencil and end up with a reality that just doesn't work.  Been there, done that.  What I am seeing in your 4 x 8 space is nested curves that may not allow you to operate easily due to the close proximity of the inner and outer loops.  Any overhang of even small short cars and locos may result in an unexpected hit.  If you like this plan a good next step is to make a full size mock up.  Make photo copies of the track you plan on using and lay it out either on your table if you have one up or on the floor.  See if your accessories fit and place cars and locos around the mock up before you finalize your construction.  

I agree, you need to check for side swipes before too far into it. I'm not sure things will clear on the top three sidings or those tight concentric curves. What does the plan say you have center to center there in inches?

BobbyD posted:

I agree, you need to check for side swipes before too far into it. I'm not sure things will clear on the top three sidings or those tight concentric curves. What does the plan say you have center to center there in inches?

I was able to ensure that - at least with the trains I have on hand - they'll all run together. I did however make one last second change. I threw a switch up at the top of the O27 track. This will give me two long stretches instead of one longish, and one shortish siding. I had a bridge on the back stretch, but I think I will slide it over and have it end on the curve now.

Scratch the above. After looking at @Joe Fauty layout, and reading about the TimeSaver, I read up more on it, and came across the Inglenook Sidings Shunting Puzzle. It's now going to be incorporated into my layout.

I think I'll put the time-saver and Inglenook on my larger layout when it's built. It certainly adds an extra element to running trains!

Good on you Deuce!