Great how to. One of the downfalls of tracks with connecting pins. When a change is made and over time there will be a few. With ballasted track it becomes almost impossible to insert pins when say adding a turnout. You can bend the pins up slightly at one end then just drop the other over the blades.

From what I remember. The Gargraves blades are stainless. You can substitute brass strip stock if you want a soldered connection.

These aren't stainless, I'm pretty sure they'd mild steel.  They're very magnetic, which precludes most stainless.  They're also pretty flexible, you have to tap gently when installing them or they just fold over.

Thanks a bunch for the tip.  They will really come in handy when doing any track work.  If I knew about them at one time I forgot.

Personally I never had much luck with those blades.   I just used a track pin with the nubs ground off, then use a needle nose vise grip to clamp it in place on the inside of the rail, that will line the rails up, then solder in, you may need another pin on the outside of rail to help line up better. don't solder inplace. easy to take apart just heat up again.

Besides using these as track joiners - occasionally for future layout changes or failed switch replacement. But also use to make lift section mechanical connection (as in lift section as walk through from outside to inside of layout. I install blades into the track that is mounted on table top, and then I make undercuts on the track section that is part of the lift, leaving just the top of the tubular rail as a small U shaped section that will drop over the blade. Marked cuts on one of @gunrunnerjohn's pics attached, the attached pic of undercut track section.

@MED posted:

Besides using these as track joiners - occasionally for future layout changes or failed switch replacement. But also use to make lift section mechanical connection (as in lift section as walk through from outside to inside of layout. I install blades into the track that is mounted on table top, and then I make undercuts on the track section that is part of the lift, leaving just the top of the tubular rail as a small U shaped section that will drop over the blade.

Why would you have to cut anything?  They drop right on.  If  you want to make them looser, just spread the bottom seam of the track slightly.  It seems like you'd just be opening up the tiny piece you left after the cutout for damage if it got bumped.

@clem k posted:

Personally I never had much luck with those blades.   I just used a track pin with the nubs ground off, then use a needle nose vise grip to clamp it in place on the inside of the rail, that will line the rails up, then solder in, you may need another pin on the outside of rail to help line up better. don't solder inplace. easy to take apart just heat up again.

Wow, they worked seamlessly for me, and it was my first time using them.  Where exactly did you have issues?  I actually expected to have some issues, and was pleasantly surprised that they worked so well.

@Susan Deats posted:

Thanks a bunch for the tip.  They will really come in handy when doing any track work.  If I knew about them at one time I forgot.

I bought them when I started working with Gargraves track and then forgot them.  I ran across them digging in my box of track pins and screws and realized they'd be great for laying the yard track.  I kick myself for not remembering them when I was doing the layout!

I used the blades on my layout when I did some of the short siding tracks. I installed the blades on one track section and on the other I pulled back 2 or 3 ties and then dropped the track in place and then pull the ties back into place which tighten the blades to the bottom of the track.

The club also used them on the club's 4ft by 16ft layout. We used ( 3 ) 6 inch sections of track to bridge the track together.

The first of this year the club give this layout to the past club president that moved into a small house and wanted a layout.

I just tapped them in to the one side until about 1/2" or a bit more shows, then move the ties back on the mating piece and drop it on.  Moving the ties on that piece over to go under the blades locks the tracks together nicely, actually quite easy to work with.

All great information.   Now, all I have to do is file that away so that I can retrieve it someday.   Thanks for the tip!   Actually, I hope that I never have to use it but what a wonderful way to insert a replacement switch or track section.   Thanks for the post.

Cheers, Dave

I use the blades and the undercuts to create a mechanical/alignment connection for lift up/out, such as the lift up I built shown in the pics below.

Love the barber pole, a nice touch.