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Yep you are correct.  I took measurements where the studs are for the shelve supports to be attached. There used to be a 45 degree step there but we took it out.  I think the shelves will be about 6” deep. Wont know till the sheetrock is hung and finished.  Slow process. Painting the whole room sky blue and the stairwell white.  I am going to use the shelves for all my hess trucks and texaco planes. 

Well diabetes is a witch.  I got an infection in my leg and some fluid of the bersa. Had to have surgery over thanksgiving and having to do injections every 24 hours till sometime in january. It was really bad. The ID doctor said it was very close to getting in the bone. It started on the saturday before turkey day and by turkey day it was my whole leg.  Crazy.  

My sheetrock guy is moving along for only being able to work 2 days a week. Here is the progress 07F14181-3534-44A8-96A3-D513CB0CE0CE9F73EC7C-3A51-4F69-BE63-C2E208282A1E58F04DA6-DFD2-409D-AAFF-D47BC6F567D6

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Southern4501 posted:

Quick question.  Is 15 amp service enough for the layout?  Most if not all of my engines are modern except for my dads.  Also led lighting is what i am shooting for. 

For your layout, sure. If you're adding the lighting load too, probably. Using LEDs will help a lot on that.

Well they finished the drywall today. They will be back out tomorrow to start on the painting. I am still down due to my leg otherwise I would paint the room myself. Then finish trimming it out and finish the stairs and carpet. I will post pictures when it gets a coat of paint or two. Scaffolding is in the way or I would attempt to snap some pictures of the finished prep.

Last edited by Southern4501
Southern4501 posted:
mike g. posted:

Looks like its going to be a merry Christmas!

It really has been.  My wife surprised me with the polar express train as well as a M1 garand (circa 1953).  I am spoiled. 

M1 Garand  N I C E.......I have a circa 1944 still with the original wood stock my dad bought over 35+ years ago. It shoots like a dream then PING.......

Layout room is looking good.....

I have a dedicated 15 amp circuit for my 22x12 layout and I have never had any problems.  It runs to a switch in order to turn on the layout.  My lighting is on a different breaker.  I would suggest to keep them separate.  I like the security of knowing there is no power to any  part of my layout unless I turn that switch on.   

New update.  

Base trim is finished. Stairs are tightened down and kick boards in. One light is hung. Attic door is installed. Still needs one more coat of paint for some touch ups. The lights i am using are flat panel 4k lumen led. They are very thin but come with crappy instructions. 1ftw by 4ftL. They come with a flush mount kit. They use 40w each and are dimmable. I wish i had setup a seperate circuit to dim them when you want to run trains in the dark. Just need a little more paint and lights finished and carpet put down. F44BB0F8-EF07-4476-A812-9098016D7CBB1D539F40-8CD3-4D36-9CEA-4C219391D3F540BEEA9C-6E7F-48AE-9A87-8350487FE0E6C4C8A974-C956-4BB9-B819-427EE5B07B79C51A48AF-9589-45B1-91AF-43539E21D313

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DL&W Pete posted:
Southern4501 posted:
mike g. posted:

Looks like its going to be a merry Christmas!

It really has been.  My wife surprised me with the polar express train as well as a M1 garand (circa 1953).  I am spoiled. 

M1 Garand  N I C E.......I have a circa 1944 still with the original wood stock my dad bought over 35+ years ago. It shoots like a dream then PING.......

Layout room is looking good.....

I picked up a Ruger pc9 for Christmas, I hope some day to own a garand. There is just something about owning a piece of WWII history, congrats!

Gilly@N&W posted:

Oh how familiar that looks! I wish I had done the spray foam instead of the pink stuff. Looks like you have more headroom than me.

BTW I pulled a dedicated 20A circuit for the attic. More than enough for a 14x39 layout.

IMAG0211PICT3065PICT3072

To span the stairwell, I used G Gauge Deck Girder Bridges from Garden Metal Products. The track is 5 rail GarGraves.

PICT5628PICT5636PICT5646

I'm one of the carpenters in our modular train club. It was natural for me to build a series of modules to go around the room. If you have the aptitude, you can buy a good power miter saw, Kreg Tool, lumber, and hardware for less than you'll spend for the factory built stuff. And in the end, you still have the tools!

PICT4664

Go with the biggest curves that will fit! On the far end of my layout I have 0120/0128/0138

DSCF0020

BTW, decent lighting in the attic for photography is a bear. Good luck with that!

16D86EF3-8FE2-4351-837F-FC54C052C6E090A01321-168A-468D-B909-AB3068A6FF2FHey Gilly. Here is the lighting I am using. Each panel is 4k lumens. There are three panels.  Two for the biggest area and one where the closet was going.  

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Jan posted:

i think I set your room up in SCARM.  The notch on the left is where the closet would be.  The track crosses over the stairs with plenty of headroom as the layout is at least 3 ft above the attic floor.  The track hugs the stairwell wall on a shelf about 12 inches wide.  If you make the attic door open into the attic then it shouldn't be a problem.  Just put a lift out section.

The track is O81 and O72 so you could run anything you want.  I used Atlas track but you could use any other system.  A turntable will take up a space that's 6 ft by 3 ft. so I don't think it would work in the corner.

I attacked the SCARM file.  Just right click on it and click Save as... to put it on your computer.

Jan

Southern4501

Jan, I have the measurements now that they have finished the room except for carpet. I was looking at going out that left wall at the bottom before the stairs for a reversing loop as well. Also placing staging on the bottom while still keeping the two loops running through. I have the outside measurements as well for those areas.

Here are the updated pictures with measurements to give an idea of the space i have available to get a better understanding from my first crude drawing lol. In the corner of picture 2 and 3 I want to try to build a mountain that resembles both mount crumpet ( the grinch movie) and the polar express movie. with a single helix layer climbing from the main table up around it and then onto a bridge back out into the main room for a island big enough to make a north pole area. So you see how much space i have. I like running trains but also would like some sidings as well. I am really thinking of going with two layers as well. I do need a dedicated run for my dads 223Eas well.  It will be all winter scenes.

 

 

 

IMG_2485IMG_2493IMG_2490IMG_2489return ventIMG_2488IMG_2487IMG_2486IMG_2492back side of stairsbackside of 4 picture return vent

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  • IMG_2485: i would like to build a double bridge across here and go into the hidden staging area
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atanz posted:

I took a pass at drawing the plan from your photos but I think I need some more info to complete it. The dimensions with ?? need filling in! I've included a PDF if you download you can zoom in on the dimensions. 

southern4501_attic

I went in and added the measurements that you had question marks on.  When i did the first measurements on the door i only went to the outside of the trim. now the measurements are to the inside for both left and right. That is one heck of a drawing. My contractor did not even do it this well. I would take a guess at the wall thickness to be around 4 - 4.5 inches thick (stud and .5inch sheet rock on each side of it).

Thanks, Wayne

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Last edited by Southern4501

I see that layout mainline shape looking something like this:

southern4501_attic

No sense invading access pathways or severely blocking the top of the stairs.

What are you thinking Southern?

The table height will low in the main area. 8" below lowest knee wall top of just below the window sill. It could decline into the window/low wall area and be at a higher level on the rest. 

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Last edited by Moonman
Southern4501 posted:

15CC338E-80CB-40EA-8C75-0E1B456A3C6979A3F32D-2039-4576-9F15-51098F52C9F7Update.  Sheetrock has started.  I am really thinking more light sockets are in order.  

Hope it's not too late, but some suggestions...  Not only add more sockets, but be sure you have power available on multiple circuits (breakers).  Also, put the lights on a separate circuit from the trains - if you trip a breaker, you still have lights.

I second MALLARDS suggestion. I put all my lights on one breaker, and put 12 outlets in my 12' x 24' train room. All the outlets are wired to a single light switch so when I leave the train room I throw the switch and everything in the room goes dead! I don't have to worry if I left something on!

I also ran wire for track lighting for dimming so I can run train at night!

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